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After Me Lucky Charms
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you think it is a decent mod for street or trackday, or whatever?

I can get them for my bike's wheels for around $300. That's $98.95 front, $207.95 rear.
 

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Mediocre Strafer
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I think it's overrated. If you are on a pro race team where you're already measuring in grams, maybe. Other than that, even if you're racking up ridiculous miles, it's going to take forever to pay for the bearings in reduced gas costs.

KeS
 

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Not on our bikes considering how much the brake pads drag. You'd be better off spending the money on swapping on some R6 calipers, new lines, and a new master cylinder. I can't remember if you already swapped masters or not yet.
 

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After Me Lucky Charms
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Nope, all my braking system is stock. I really don't want to frankenstein my bike, but that's a topic for a different thread. You can get ceramics for the rear wheel, which is "suppose" to give better fuel economy, put more of it's available power to the ground, and lighter rotating mass, lower heat, etc.

But we can discuss ceramic bearings in general, for any bike. I just wanted to know if anyone uses them here. I read on the Ducati forum, and people are swearing by them.
 

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Mediocre Strafer
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Nope, all my braking system is stock. I really don't want to frankenstein my bike, but that's a topic for a different thread. You can get ceramics for the rear wheel, which is "suppose" to give better fuel economy, put more of it's available power to the ground, and lighter rotating mass, lower heat, etc.
It's true that ceramic bearings do all those things - it's just unlikely to be to any significant extent. With that big chain with 100+ joints flexing every time it goes around, do you really think that the wheel bearing difference is going to improve fuel efficiency that much? Taking whatever amount of weight (it's not like steel bearings weigh pounds in the first place!) out of the HUB is making a big difference in available power? How about rebalancing the tire to get rid of that 1oz of lead you have stuck way out at the RIM instead?!?

I just think it's a non-issue. If I were at the point of worrying about getting rid of wheel weights, downsizing my chain width and running aluminum rear sprocket (oh wait - I don't HAVE a bike with a chain right now!), or if my wheel bearing grease were showing the least signs of overheating/melting - then maybe I'd think that it was time to start worrying about ceramic bearings.

KeS
 

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CCS# 616
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For $300 I would put that way at the end of my list after other weight reducing measures. Lightweight battery-$150, sprocket/520 conversion-$200, machine down the rear rotor-$80, etc.
 

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After Me Lucky Charms
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
LOL. Everyone seems to be trying to talk me out of it! I am not buying them. I just want to know about them. I'm not going to rush out and buy some, just to save .2 seconds on a race I'll never have. I just want to discuss them, just for the knowledge.

@KeS your opinion is void, since you don't have a chain. :p

@ZorroX Shorai battery is next on my list.
 

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Mediocre Strafer
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LOL. Everyone seems to be trying to talk me out of it! I am not buying them. I just want to know about them. I'm not going to rush out and buy some, just to save .2 seconds on a race I'll never have. I just want to discuss them, just for the knowledge.

@KeS your opinion is void, since you don't have a chain. :p
All the more reason to save weight on bearings! :p

Let's put it this way - I have ceramic bearings on my Specialized Roubaix road bike. And *there* the cost/benefit is disputed. No way I'm putting them on my 175HP K13S. :beer

KeS
 

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Here's the positives:

Ceramic Bearings all www.woodcraft-cfm.com

That said, I'm of the same opinion as everyone else, the benefits aren't there for the average person. Zorrox has a great point in his post about machining your rear rotor. It's cheaper and it has a lot of real world benefits (like namely making it difficult to lock up the rear brake).

Actually, arcticamt6 had a great point about upgrading the mastercylinder and calipers.

Don't forget, wheel bearings are a wear item, one that should be replaced A LOT more than most people do.
 

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Thanks for posting that, Tony. I was aware that the ceramics were lighter, withstood heat well, and had great wear characteristics (except for impacts), but I did not know that they think they can make the bearings rounder, with tighter tolerences. So I learned just a little something from your link.

- John
 

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Nope, all my braking system is stock. I really don't want to frankenstein my bike, but that's a topic for a different thread. You can get ceramics for the rear wheel, which is "suppose" to give better fuel economy, put more of it's available power to the ground, and lighter rotating mass, lower heat, etc.

But we can discuss ceramic bearings in general, for any bike. I just wanted to know if anyone uses them here. I read on the Ducati forum, and people are swearing by them.
Next time you have the front wheel in the air, give it a spin. It'll stop before 2 revolutions. Our calipers are notorious for making the pads drag. Only fix is brembo/r6/zx6r calipers.


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A guy on a scruffy bike
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They are better, and have all the advnatages you state, but it's a tiny improvement for the money. My wheel bearings have been lasting about 100K per set. I recently had the rear replaced; the stock bearing cost $78. The ceramic would not be $130 better.

It would be like trying to improve your swimming lap times by shaving the hairs off your toes. Will it make you lighter, more hydrodynamic, and faster? Yes. Enough to be worth doing? No.

PhilB
 

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After Me Lucky Charms
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Next time you have the front wheel in the air, give it a spin. It'll stop before 2 revolutions. Our calipers are notorious for making the pads drag. Only fix is brembo/r6/zx6r calipers.


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Uhh, nope. It spins about 4-6 times. In fact, my front wheel spins about the same as my Honda did. Dunno if they fixed it for 09+ or not. Could also be that I have 8,800 miles on these pads, too. Now it will only spin 2 times, if I just flip it with one finger. It's in the air now, off the ground for winter storage.

I have a little pad drag, but it's not dramatic.
 

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want to know how much power you are loosing to your bearings? do this, take the calipers off so your brakes aren't dragging with the tire in the air give the wheel one good spin we will call that 1/10 of a hp for 1 second for example sake, so you have .100 hp per second. now time how long it takes for the wheel to stop, ill guess 8 seconds for the example. now take your .100hp per second input and divide it by the 8 seconds it took to output that energy and you get .0125 hp/sec is consumed between the aerodynamic drag of the wheel and and the drag of the wheel bearing. the ambient temp change between two consecutive dyno pulls would have a b***** effect on your hp than changing your bearings.
 

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Uhh, nope. It spins about 4-6 times. In fact, my front wheel spins about the same as my Honda did. Dunno if they fixed it for 09+ or not. Could also be that I have 8,800 miles on these pads, too. Now it will only spin 2 times, if I just flip it with one finger. It's in the air now, off the ground for winter storage.

I have a little pad drag, but it's not dramatic.
You must have gotten a good bike then. It's a problem on the 09+ models as well as the 06-08's.
 

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the joke is in your hand
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You must have gotten a good bike then. It's a problem on the 09+ models as well as the 06-08's.
everyone has that problem it's not a triumph thing.

the older R6 like mine works a lot better if we remove the pad spring so the pads have more play because that spring isn't holding them tight to the pins.
they spin great if you take them off set the forks with the axle. until you ride it a few times and it's back to the same 2 revolutions (if your lucky it's more like 1 - 1.5)
take the calipers off and the rim spins for 6-10 times
 
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