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tenders,
look up how the tender works, it keeps charging but at a low rate and kicks on to a higher rate and back down to a lower rate. they will ruin a batter faster than if you just leave it alone. they are mearly a money making gimmick.
QUOTE]

Dude you are a idiot......... Don't look how the tender works look how the acid in a battery works. Its called keeping them active...
 

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Dude you are a idiot......... Don't look how the tender works look how the acid in a battery works. Its called keeping them active...

That is funny, the acid stays fine in the battery for months at a time, while sitting on the shelf. As for once it is in the bike, I have not had a problem with letting them sit for longer than a month, without a tender.
 

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Dude older batteries..... The cells die the tender is built to keep them moving and flowing. Thats all..... I was pointing out his idea on why they dont work is false bc he did not consider why they do that.
 

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Experience is a hard teacher.... I'd love to have the OP come back into this and tell us how it's worked out. Bench racing electrical problems; what's next?
:lao
+1, I'd love to hear how it turned out! :D My guess is alternator, but may have taken the battery with it...

I love bench racing! I've talked turbo's and super's until I was blue in the face back in my MR2/Lexus SC days. I'm convinced there's a perfect supercharger for each desired power output from each specific engine (ie. centrifugals make sense on some american V8s that make power down low but fall off on the top end... roots blowers are great for ALL motors when you need boost up to about 13 psi, past that point a lysholm is the best for 13-30+ psi)

If I hadn't got into bikes I would have a lysholm blown Lexus SC400. :D

Now back to our regularly scheduled bench race already in progress...
 

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the joke is in your hand
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Dude you are a idiot......... Don't look how the tender works look how the acid in a battery works. Its called keeping them active...
this is where another one of you don't know anything about this subject but call others idiots.

a constant charging of a battery builds up deposits on the plates in them. it ruins them.

look up how to store a battery on Yuasa's website...here lazy, I'll do it for you.
Yuasa Batteries :: Battery Maintenance

show me where they recommend using a tender....

I personally will never use or buy a tender. I already have a charger for one. two, I never have problems from my batteries because I'm not hooking them up to a tender that is still charging it at all times. I don't even use my charger on my bike and never have. my battery is the original battery with a 2002 date on it.

battery tender uses the terms exactly as follows,
" At the end of the regular charger cycle, every Battery Tender battery charger automatically switches its output voltage to a safe, storage or float level"
they don't say it "shuts off". it is constantly charging the battery at all times. which is one of the fastest ways to kill a battery.
 

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...........

battery tender uses the terms exactly as follows,
" At the end of the regular charger cycle, every Battery Tender battery charger automatically switches its output voltage to a safe, storage or float level"
they don't say it "shuts off". it is constantly charging the battery at all times. which is one of the fastest ways to kill a battery.
From Batterytender.com - Home of All Your Charging Needs

"The transition from absorption charge mode to the next stage is determined either by a timer, or by the charger sensing the value of charge current and then switching over when the charge current drops below a certain threshold. For example, the Battery Tender? Plus (part of a different product line) switches out of absorption mode when the charge current falls below 100 milliamps (or 0.1 amp) or when the absorption mode has lasted for 8 hours."

When the Battery Tender Junior I own senses that the input current to the battery drops to less than .1 amp during the charging cycle, it decreases the current even further, going into 'float' mode.

Float mode is described as:

"Traditionally, the entire Battery Tender product line has incorporated a constant voltage float charge mode. The 70W product line implements a somewhat unique combination of the two general methods just described. In float mode the charger output voltage is a constant, somewhere between 13.2 and 13.6 VDC, depending on the specific model number. Also, the charger continues to monitor the battery voltage. If the battery voltage drops below a threshold, usually set at between 12.0 and 12.5 VDC, the charger will reinitialize its charging cycle. The Battery Tender response to low battery voltage is more effective than the traditional hysteresis charging method because it allows the battery to be fully recharged more quickly."

This in a nutshell means that the tender will not turn on if the voltage at the battery is greater than 12.5 VDC.

The first part of the charging cycle of the tender is the same as your traditional charger.... bulk charging.... described as:

"Stage 1) Bulk Charge Mode: During this time, the battery is fully or partially discharged, in some state of charge less than 100%. On a 12 volt battery, the no load battery voltage is between 11.4 VDC, fully discharged, and 12.9-13.0VDC, fully charged. When the battery charger is connected to the battery and then turned on by plugging it into the 110 or 220VAC power source (wall socket), the charger will attempt to bring the battery voltage up to the level required to be in stage 2), the absorption charge mode. Sometimes this voltage level is called the “quick charge voltage”. Typically, this voltage is in the 14.2 to 15.0VDC range. The battery voltage rises because the charging current that is provided by the battery charger is replenishing its internal charge capacity. During bulk charge mode, the charger current is flat (constant) and the battery voltage is rising."

Damage to a battery can occur when you cause the electrolyte to out gas. That means the water is being broken down into hydrogen and oxygen, and will not recombine with the sulfur that was in the sulfuric acid in the cells.

Tenders go from the bulk charge rate to a lower charge state as the battery beomes more completely filled..... absorbtion stage, described here:

"Absorption Charge Mode: At this time the battery is approximately 80% recharged. The charger will now attempt to hold its output voltage constant while the battery continues to absorb charge (draw charging current) from the charger. The rate at which the battery continues to absorb charge in this mode gradually slows down. The amplitude of the charger current is gradually decreasing. During absorption charge mode, the charge current is falling and the battery voltage is flat (constant)."

The goal of this phase is to limit the outgassing to the greatest extent possible.... they hold a constant voltage, and reduce current on a curve determined by the battery.

"11. Deltran Chargers: General Charging Algorithm Summary:

The Battery Tender Junior implements 3 of the charge cycle stages, Bulk, Absorption, and Float.

The Battery Tender Plus implements 3 of the charge cycle stages, Bulk, Absorption, and Float."

"As long as they are functioning properly, the Battery Tender battery chargers can be left connected to the battery indefinitely."

:google
 

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look up how to store a battery on Yuasa's website...here lazy, I'll do it for you. ........ show me where they recommend using a tender....

.
This is where they state that a charger or 'maintainer' can be left attached to the battery.... I assume the term maintainer is used to avoid copyright issues.

Yuasa Batteries :: Storage & Spring Startup

"With the batteries in a full state of charge, you may wish to store it in a cool dry area away from children and pets. You may also choose to reinstall it in the vehicle. Either way, allow yourself access to the battery so you can periodically check your state of charge, or simply attach a battery charger/ maintainer to it.

Maintaining your battery state of charge during extended periods of storage is essential to insure the maximum service life is delivered."
 

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One more point on this, from the Yuasa site.... concerning post storage prep for use....

Yuasa Batteries :: Storage & Spring Startup

"The variety of chargers you can use to endless but it is recommended that you use an automatic taper type charger specifically designed for Powersports batteries. Don't use a high current or fast charger for the boost charge unless you are familiar with their operation or permanent damage can occur to the battery."

Most of the Battery Tender products have a current limit in the range of .8 to .75 amps for the Boost phase. (Compared to a standard automotive chareger with possibly as much as 10 amperes available.) Once the battery shows enough voltage at the terminals to change over to the next phase, where the current tapers off to .1 amps or less.

Further on in this same article, they make a pitch for their automatic chargers....

"To insure maximum performance and service life for your battery, we recommended that you use either the Yuasa 1.5 Amp or 900mA Automatic Battery Charger for battery maintenance. Both chargers deliver Mistake-Proof Technology to properly charge your battery and both are designed to switch to a float mode once the battery has reached a full state of charge and maintain it there. This feature allows you to attach the charger to your battery for an extended period of time without concern of an overcharged or discharged battery."

Seems to me, Yuasa is in support of this type of product......
 

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Hey guys I'm sorry to revive this thread from 2009 (I'm sure you've had alot of time to think about the proper way to store a battery) 😅

Shooting in the dark here I have the same problems as OP 14 volts at 5krpms but starts to die when idling, it's a 06 r1 I've replaced the magneto generator (magnets came apart) the rectifier and stator it worked for about 3 weekends started up didn't die idled fine then one day I was warming the bike up for a ride and the battery started to die when I rev it up its normal for a few seconds and starts to die again.

I think I may have isolated the problem to my starter brushes(there was a whole bunch of gunk inside where the brushes are located)

Although now I've broken the 2 brushes that come connected to the housing where it hooks up to the power cable, is it possible to get my new brushes welded on? Or am I screwed because I can't find the oem brush holder online I ordered one for a 2008 from partzilla and It doesn't fit and I can't find the oem holder, so I guess you're not even supposed to remove it oops it looks like another weekend of no riding🤦‍♂️
 
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