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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1991 Yamaha FZR600 with about 15000 miles on it. About a week or so ago, as I was riding to work, the clutch lever started showing huge amounts of play before it would start disengaging the clutch. I was able to adjust it at the handle to make it home, however with that adjusted all the way out, it would just barely disengage. I almost had to cut the engine off when I came to a stop. It would also wine when I was moving slow in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in.

I was thinking that the clutch cable was probably getting old and stretching, so I started to replace that. I decided I would check the clutch and make sure everything was ok, as well as the pushrods. I just bought this bike not too long ago, so I haven't had a chance to check them yet. The clutch wasn't slipping though.

After removing all the friction plates and steel plates, it was time to take the short push rod out. This did not want to come out easily at all. After a little work, it finally came out, but I couldn't get a steel ball to come out like the haynes manual said. Since the engine sprocket cover was already off, I decided I would just pull the long rod out from that side. After a little tugging, the rod appears to have broke at a shear point and now I am stuck with the other part of the long pushrod in the main shaft. And I still have not found any signs of that steel ball. I can tap the pushrod that is stuck in the shaft, and it probably moves about 1/2 inch easily, but it will not come out of the shaft in either direction. I can move it back and forth all I want, but it won't come out of the shaft. The part of the long pushrod that I did get out is about a 1/4 inch longer than the short pushrod.

I am stuck..I don't know what to do. A friend of mine with a little more mechanical knowledge looked at it and said I probably have to take the transmission apart.

Has anyone had a similar experience or know what I can do to fix this? Any ideas on what else could cause the problems?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash

Extreme Performance Electronics - Coming soon..Car/home audio and video!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How hard should it be to tap the original out? I have been tapping it some but am afraid to tap it too hard for fear of breaking something else. I can only get it to move so far in each direction. It seems to get stuck in both directions at a certain point but will move freely between the two points.
 

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the rod goes through a hole in the trans primary shaft. That's all there is to it. Crap gets into the hole and gums it up. There are no steps or anything like that in that shaft...just a straight diameter. The rod is already garbage...Drive it out
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm worried about damaging the shaft. If I drive the rod out, will the shaft be ruined and need replacing? If so, how hard is it to replace that shaft?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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driving the rod out of the shaft will not damage the shaft.
The hole through the shaft is larger than the rod that is stuck in there. There is gunk in there making the rod tight. there may be a burr on the rod that is causing it to bind a bit but it WILL drive out
I do this sort of thing all the time. I own a machine shop in Puget Sound

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok..I'm at work now, but I will try to drive it out when I get home. I'll post and let you know what I find out. Is this probably what caused the clutch to stop disengaging? Is there anything else that is probably broken? I already have a new clutch cable on order and I'm going to order a new long pushrod, steel ball, and short pushrod with a new o-ring. Are there any other parts that are probably at fault that I am going to need to replace?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After a few hours of beating on that thing, I don't think it is going to come out. I have been pounding away at that rod for a while now and it stops at the exact same point each and every time in both directions. When I am pounding it, you can hear that the metal is hitting more metal. I can't figure out how to get that rod out. It just doesn't make sense. I'm thinking I might have to take the trans primary shaft out and replace it. I don't know. Any more ideas? This rod just won't budge.

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah..I saw that site..thats where I'm going to order my replacement rod and other parts from. I also have that drawing in my haynes manual. I have the whole clutch removed and the short pushrod out. I have not taken the boss clutch nut or anything like that off yet. I can see the rod inside the main shaft, and I can move it back and forth inside of it, but it won't go all the way through and come out. I also never got that steel ball. I took the short pushrod out and no steel ball, and then the long pushrod broke on the side of the engine sprocket cover. It does move inside the shaft (maybe about an inch) but then it just jams and stops moving completely. I can't break it through either.

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, After a lot of thinking, I decided I'm going to rebuild the engine and transmission and clean the bike up really nice. I figured this would give me a really good chance to learn all there is about the bike and will allow me a chance to learn the entire condition of it. I'm also thinking about jetting it.

If I jet it, which kit would be recommended? Also, I have a Yosh pipe on it now. Are there any better exhausts for a FZR600? Iwas looking at the Vance and Hines SS2R Full exhaust.

So far, the bike is all stock with the exception of the yosh pipe. I'm going to be putting a K&N filter on it, complete tune-up, engine rebuild, tranny rebuild, and I am thinking about swapping that Yosh pipe for a new exhaust, and also thinking about jetting it. Any advise about any of this? Anything else you would recommend to do to it? Its a 1991, 15000 miles Yamaha FZR600. Its in pretty good condition considering its a '91. The plastics aren't perfect, but look really good.

Another thing, do you know of any good rebuild kits or anything like that to assist me?

Any advice?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Wiseco and J&E both make piston sets. I use J&E and MRE pistons in my Pro Mod Suzuki
Pro Flo sells stuff
Orient Express sells stuff
I would not use a Dynojet kit as the support is hidious and they run stumbleing, falling down, pig rich.
Use a Factory Pro kit. Much better support and they use Mikuni jets not some strange numbering system for their jets

stage three with no airbox and you're asking for tuning and drivability problems

At 15K you should look at the emulsion tubes for ovaling and replace if you see ANY evidence at all

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If I want to put a stage three jet kit on it, what airbox would you recommend? Also, which would be better, a factory pro jet kit or just buying the mains, pilots and needles...
Pro Flo has this kit -> Master Carb Tuners Package
Kit Includes:
1 - Jet Block
20 - Series 4/042 Main Jets
12 - Series VM22/210 Pilot Jets
3 - Series 4, 5 or 6 Jet Needles
(You Choose The Jets) what size jets would I want if I go this route?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, if I were to buy a piston set, I would have to bore out the engine some. I read somewhere that the FZR block is already bored out as big as it can go safely and if it is rebored, it will not last long at all. I'm worried that if I rebore the engine I will have a lot more problems. Any ideas about this? Has anyone bored there FZR600 Engine? Pro-Flo has a piston set for 60mm bore (619cc) and 60.5mm bore(630cc).
Any ideas about boring the FZR engine?
Also, what is a normal cost to get a machine shop to bore it?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 

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Stage three jet kits require you to lose the airbox. This is a bad thing for the street. This will upset the resonance of the intake system and reduce power everywhere in the powerband except the top end. driveability will suffer
you can bor ea 600 to 660 I believe and a 630 is just fine. No issues that I have ever heard of. Count on about $220 to $250 to bore and about $475 for the pistons
Just buy a
Factory Pro stage one kit. They won't sell you just the needles
You do NOT need to change the pilots just the needles and the mains
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought a K&N air filter..just the drop-in stock replacement. I also ordered a stage 1 Factory pro jet kit. Ordered a Factory Pro Shift Kit, clutch, and some other cosmetic parts.
I'm going to call in a little while and try to get quotes to bore the engine and if I get any reasonable quotes then I'll do that too.

I ordered a new set of Factory Pro Emulsion tubes as well. And a new clutch (my old one was getting thin and discolored) I'm going to put a new oil filter on and a new fuel filter, and spark plugs.

What else should I do during the rebuild? What else should I check? I'm going to get a gasket set/kit..any recommendations?

Thanks,
Andrew Lash
 
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