Ok, first of all, I've been reading articles on the forum and many others for about 3 hours now...I've done my research. I have an 02 f4i and I'm doing chain and sprocket kit. I'm going to buy a 525 kit, but I haven't decided on going -1 +2. Some of the stuff I read scared me away from going -1. Saying that going down on the front creates more wear. I'm also looking to go with steel as I'm not racing and couldn't tell the difference anyway. Just looking for some good advice for brands, websites, dealers, etc. And any other personal opinions..Thanks
Chain and Sprocket advice please!!
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I'm not sure who told you that going -1 in the front increases wear, but I don't think that is true. Just remember that when you change ur gearing (in the case of -1/+2) you will throw off your speedo and mileage.
RK or EK chains are great; as for sprockets I recommend Driven or Afam. I got mine from a local dealer here in Daytona Beach, FL for $180 shipped for the chain/sprocket set.
www.monkeyworkscycle.com
RK or EK chains are great; as for sprockets I recommend Driven or Afam. I got mine from a local dealer here in Daytona Beach, FL for $180 shipped for the chain/sprocket set.
www.monkeyworkscycle.com
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2,288 Posts
Gearingcommander.com is a good site to plug in the numbers and get an idea of how much your speed will be thrown off. It will also show the new gear ratios and other info.
i have a 03 f4i and am running -1 on the front for about 6-7K miles, wear nd tear is about the same as long as you clean and maintain it. a great site is Sprocket Center they are extremely helpful and good prices. Going +2 on the rear and finding a steel sprocket will be difficult since most companies use aluminum. the only company i know is Supersprox STEALTH Tri-Metal which is aluminum base with steel on the outer side. Also make sure you get speedohealer so you dont get millage build up on the speedometer.
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I am glad to here you are going with steel. They will definately last much much longer than aluminum.
As far as going down 1 on the front, and causing more wear. Yes this is true, but how much is argumenative.
My idea would be if you want quicker gearing you are far better off to keep the turning radius of the front as large as possible (its the tight turning radius that will create extra wear and also "steal" horsepower) so go with a larger rear sprocket and leave the front alone.
As far as availability of steel vs. aluminum. Yes alot of the aftermarkets want to sell you aluminum (they are cheaper and easier on equipment to produce and they can charge you more, by selling you on the lighter recipricating mass = more horsepower rhetoric.) There are websites out there that will sell you sunstar or parts unlimited or some other "off" brand steel sprockets front and rear. You just need to search..What is your time worth, to find the savings of $20 or so ??Whenever you can, get sprockets that are machined, not stamped!! Although some of the stamped sprockets are quite good, the machined sprockets are of higher quality 9 times out of 10.
( email me directly if you want, I own a service and repair facility and can get you into a complete set for a reasonable price. [email protected])
As far as chains go--The EK MZXV quadra x ring is the best (hands down no comparison) do you need the absolute best--probably not, plus it costs to have the very best.
The RK xso chains and the DID VM are excellent chains and will easily last 20,000+ with a little maintainance. ( I have a VM on my bike now with 25,000 miles on it, and I havent had to adjust it in over 10,000 miles--but I do lube it about every 300-500 miles depending on weather and riding conditions. ( while the did erv2 is lighter and boasts the same strength, its side plates are thinner and it stretches quite a bit, and again warranty issues of it being a "race chain"
Lastly sticking with the 525 chain disperses the load over a larger surface area, thus prolonging chain and sprocket life! Buut you will pay a little more for the 525 chain than that of a 520 chain--the sprockets cost the same.
Also if your bike came with a 525 and you change to a 520 kit, there usually will be no warranty, because that is considered a "race kit" regardless of your actual use.
Hope this helps. Lloyd
As far as going down 1 on the front, and causing more wear. Yes this is true, but how much is argumenative.
My idea would be if you want quicker gearing you are far better off to keep the turning radius of the front as large as possible (its the tight turning radius that will create extra wear and also "steal" horsepower) so go with a larger rear sprocket and leave the front alone.
As far as availability of steel vs. aluminum. Yes alot of the aftermarkets want to sell you aluminum (they are cheaper and easier on equipment to produce and they can charge you more, by selling you on the lighter recipricating mass = more horsepower rhetoric.) There are websites out there that will sell you sunstar or parts unlimited or some other "off" brand steel sprockets front and rear. You just need to search..What is your time worth, to find the savings of $20 or so ??Whenever you can, get sprockets that are machined, not stamped!! Although some of the stamped sprockets are quite good, the machined sprockets are of higher quality 9 times out of 10.
( email me directly if you want, I own a service and repair facility and can get you into a complete set for a reasonable price. [email protected])
As far as chains go--The EK MZXV quadra x ring is the best (hands down no comparison) do you need the absolute best--probably not, plus it costs to have the very best.
The RK xso chains and the DID VM are excellent chains and will easily last 20,000+ with a little maintainance. ( I have a VM on my bike now with 25,000 miles on it, and I havent had to adjust it in over 10,000 miles--but I do lube it about every 300-500 miles depending on weather and riding conditions. ( while the did erv2 is lighter and boasts the same strength, its side plates are thinner and it stretches quite a bit, and again warranty issues of it being a "race chain"
Lastly sticking with the 525 chain disperses the load over a larger surface area, thus prolonging chain and sprocket life! Buut you will pay a little more for the 525 chain than that of a 520 chain--the sprockets cost the same.
Also if your bike came with a 525 and you change to a 520 kit, there usually will be no warranty, because that is considered a "race kit" regardless of your actual use.
Hope this helps. Lloyd
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Yeah. Unless you're racing it's really not worth it.
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