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Discussion Starter #1
So finally got her running again, carbs cleaned and needles shimmed +1 shim, and AFM adjusted to 2 1/2 turns (to start). Anyway here is my questions:

1) For anyone that went the one length of tube at a time route, i.e. syncing 1/2, then 3/4, then 1/2 with 3/4 rather than all 4 at a time, did yall have trouble with getting the bike started? I had the airbox off and attempted 1/2 and it didn't want to start... I put the plug from carb 3 in the line in order to close the system, or should this not affect it?

2) I built the carb sync tool from the how-to thread on here with 2 stroke oil and for the life of me cannot get the few air bubbles out, even with canned air and all the coaxing in the world. will this make a huge difference?

3) Final question, I'm considering just forgoing the oil and putting in colored water, theres plenty of slack so if the water is gonna get sucked up ill just shut off the engine. Will this make a difference, and what liquid did everyone use?

One final note: I tried this by turning the gas tank off to the side with the tank still connected in order to sync the carbs, and on my ride tonight I ended up with a torn fuel line (thank goodness for a friend picking me up!). Went to the auto parts store for a fuel line, $2.00 fix. But this got me thinking, rather than buying an auxilary tank for $40.00, why not spend $6.00 on 6 feet of line? as long as the tank is above the fuel pump, it shouldn't make a difference. I'll be doing this when I try to sync the carbs and adjust AFM this weekend, shes still running rich. Just thought I'd share, maybe save some people who havent bought the aux tank already a few bucks...
 

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So finally got her running again, carbs cleaned and needles shimmed +1 shim, and AFM adjusted to 2 1/2 turns (to start). Anyway here is my questions:

1) For anyone that went the one length of tube at a time route, i.e. syncing 1/2, then 3/4, then 1/2 with 3/4 rather than all 4 at a time, did yall have trouble with getting the bike started? I had the airbox off and attempted 1/2 and it didn't want to start... I put the plug from carb 3 in the line in order to close the system, or should this not affect it?

2) I built the carb sync tool from the how-to thread on here with 2 stroke oil and for the life of me cannot get the few air bubbles out, even with canned air and all the coaxing in the world. will this make a huge difference?

3) Final question, I'm considering just forgoing the oil and putting in colored water, theres plenty of slack so if the water is gonna get sucked up ill just shut off the engine. Will this make a difference, and what liquid did everyone use?

One final note: I tried this by turning the gas tank off to the side with the tank still connected in order to sync the carbs, and on my ride tonight I ended up with a torn fuel line (thank goodness for a friend picking me up!). Went to the auto parts store for a fuel line, $2.00 fix. But this got me thinking, rather than buying an auxilary tank for $40.00, why not spend $6.00 on 6 feet of line? as long as the tank is above the fuel pump, it shouldn't make a difference. I'll be doing this when I try to sync the carbs and adjust AFM this weekend, shes still running rich. Just thought I'd share, maybe save some people who havent bought the aux tank already a few bucks...
When I synced my carbs on my Ninja, I built my own sync tool as well with two stroke oil. I also had bubbles in the line, but they shouldn't affect anything, as you're not trying to get an accurate pressure reading; you're just trying to get pressures relative to the other carbs. I wouldn't use water. You can have a lot of extra hose, but you may not be paying attention while trying to make adjustments and suck in water anyhow. Even with the best of intentions of shutting off the engine quickly and a small chance of water being sucked in, shit sometimes happens. If the oil gets in the carbs, it's not a huge deal... Water on the other hand... I'd say it's just not worth it.

I did a quick Google search and found that the inner diameter of a ZZR fuel line is 5/16" (correct me if I'm wrong). At six feet in length, using the volume of a cylinder formula, that would only add 0.024 gallons of capacity to your fuel storage. That seems like an exercise in futility to me. If you find that you really need an extra mile of fuel range, than I'd say you've found your answer.

V=(pi)r^2h
V=3.14*0.156^2*72=5.5 cubic inches
5.5 cubic inches = 0.024 gallons
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I mentioned the long fuel line, I wasn't suggesting it to extend the range of the bike during normal riding, I meant it for use only when needed to provide fuel to the tank while working on internal parts i.e. when adjusting air/fuel mixture or syncing carbs.
 

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When I mentioned the long fuel line, I wasn't suggesting it to extend the range of the bike during normal riding, I meant it for use only when needed to provide fuel to the tank while working on internal parts i.e. when adjusting air/fuel mixture or syncing carbs.
LOL! That makes much more sense. I had never thought of an auxiliary fuel tank for anything other than extending range. I was actually surprised that you would think the additional hose length would actually work for additional fuel capacity. Now that you mention it, a longer fuel line would have made the job easier when I synced my carbs. Thanks for clearing that up.
 

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The long hose idea works great, though the petcock may make resting the tank somewhere awkward. I ended up suspending my tank from the ceiling, to get it in a convenient location (so as to not trip over the hose), and to set the height- can't be lower than the carbs or too much higher. The longer hose has more air to purge so starting w/ empty carbs can be a little annoying.

If you had problems starting then probably one of the vacuum ports was not plugged- any not being measured should be plugged, and well, even a small leak will upset the fueling.

I don't think water vapor being sucked into the carb is going to do much- the crankcase vent ends up producing a fair bit of water and thats rebreathed thru the carbs- unless you have a catchbottle of course.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Appreciate the help and input from everyone here throughout the process.

Only been on the forums for a few weeks and already feel welcome. It's really resparked my interest in modifying and servicing my bike rather than just riding and paying out the @$$ to dealerships/shops.

This was the first time I ever even saw inside a carburetor, and the second time I've been under the tank (pulled the plugs 2 years ago) so this all seemed very daunting but with the info on this forum I was able to do it myself, saving hundreds of dollars in the process, not to mention confidence and most importantly a much better running bike!

Luckily I think the tank will be on for a while now, next project is installing my ignition advancer, then cleaning up the tail section and front flushmounts.
 

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It's a reference to Star Trek IV, where Scotty has to use a keyboard and says "how quaint" - referring to the ancient technology



Other than lawn equipment, I can't even remember the last vehicle I had that wasn't EFI. I don't miss the old days of setting the choke
 

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It's a reference to Star Trek IV, where Scotty has to use a keyboard and says "how quaint" - referring to the ancient technology



Other than lawn equipment, I can't even remember the last vehicle I had that wasn't EFI. I don't miss the old days of setting the choke

To each his own I guess. Thanks for the worthless idle chatter were others are actually discussing motorcycles.
 
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