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The CBR was merely an example. Not all carbs are synchronized the same way was my point. And stating that the info i posted wasn't helping anyone is just shade tree mechanic right there. Not one person stated adjusting the idle speed while syncing the carbs which is pretty much a standard across the board. Could I have picked a better example yes, but to flame my post is just childish. I also stated to check the service manual. I mean who does this anyways??? Sorry I posted such atrocious information, and offended you so much.
 

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The CBR was merely an example. Not all carbs are synchronized the same way was my point. And stating that the info i posted wasn't helping anyone is just shade tree mechanic right there. Not one person stated adjusting the idle speed while syncing the carbs which is pretty much a standard across the board. Could I have picked a better example yes, but to flame my post is just childish. I also stated to check the service manual. I mean who does this anyways??? Sorry I posted such atrocious information, and offended you so much.
I am aware all carbs are not sync'ed in the same manner. I'm still trying to figure why you even posted that not all bikes with carbs are sync'ed the same in the Kawasaki ZZR600 sub-forum. A forum where the specific bike has a specific order of carb syncing. The info you provided doesn't help a ZZR600 owner. As for adjusting the idle speed, that's going to be common sense, since the bike may try and die when the carbs are being sync'ed. Flame? Please understand that when you go posting information that doesn't pertain to a specific make of bike in a bike specific forum you may confuse people that are not as mechanically inclined as you or others.

Besides this thread is not about carb syncing. Its about how to make the tool for carb syncing. Right???
 

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While I understand rockets comments, i also understand that when you search "carb sync" this is the first result.. i think windlvr was just trying to mention to owners of other bikes that they should check the process first.. At least he clearly stated that on a CBR this is incorrect. He may not have even noticed that he was in a sub forum (yeah i know it's not that hard to figure out) it was his first post, give the guy a break
 

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While I understand rockets comments, i also understand that when you search "carb sync" this is the first result.. i think windlvr was just trying to mention to owners of other bikes that they should check the process first.. At least he clearly stated that on a CBR this is incorrect. He may not have even noticed that he was in a sub forum (yeah i know it's not that hard to figure out) it was his first post, give the guy a break

So let me get this straight we have a guy that claims to be a motorcycle tech in his profile that owns a Suzuki, but posts info on the CBR in the Kawasaki forum. And you think I should cut him a break? I think I'll go onto a Harley forum and post info about BMW's!
 

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You just don't get it.. You're right, he shouldn't have posted
Oh I get it, all he really said was, different bikes with carbs may have to be sync'ed in a different order. Which IMO has nothing to do with the ZZR600 carb sync order.
 

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This is a "how to" make your own carb sync tool thread.
 

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There was more information than just making a homemade tool in this thread. I just added something to it because a friend of mine pointed me here and thought it would work for him. His thinking was wrong in how to tune his carb because he didn't realize it was a subforum. therefore I threw my comment in about syncing carbs. I am sorry it has caused this much trouble. I have deleted my original post, so as to end any confusion. Common sense to some is not really all that common to all.
 

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There was more information than just making a homemade tool in this thread. I just added something to it because a friend of mine pointed me here and thought it would work for him. His thinking was wrong in how to tune his carb because he didn't realize it was a subforum. therefore I threw my comment in about syncing carbs. I am sorry it has caused this much trouble. I have deleted my original post, so as to end any confusion. Common sense to some is not really all that common to all.
No problem, whatever you can add to the forum is always helpful as long as it pertains to the bike that is being discussed. Please understand that each spring a new bunch of riders and weekend mechanics purchase the ZZR600. And I wouldn't want them to be misinformed. If you feel you can add helpful information about the ZZR600, them post it up. Thanks, Jay
 

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I just performed a carb sync with some vacuum gauges. After the job is finished i wish i would have checked each gauge on a single vacuum source, so i could confirm the gauges are calibrated properly.

After i synched it all up the bike idle dropped to almost stalling, Adjusted my idle screw, should this be of concern?
Seems to be running really good. Wheelies easy.
These gauges are in pristine condition so i assume they are calibrated But next time i perform a sync i will check them for sure.
 

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Same thing happened on my Bandit- to be expected- the idle stop was adjusted for where the butterflies used to be. After the sync (and valve clearance adjust) I had the engine running a lot smoother so was able to adjust my idle down to spec, in the previous condition the idle wasn't stable till it was 500 rpm more than stock.
 

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Same thing happened on my Bandit- to be expected- the idle stop was adjusted for where the butterflies used to be. After the sync (and valve clearance adjust) I had the engine running a lot smoother so was able to adjust my idle down to spec, in the previous condition the idle wasn't stable till it was 500 rpm more than stock.
I believe you had the opposite happen, You lowered your idle after the carb sync? I had to raise mine to prevent it from stalling but otherwise the bike runs good and idle is normal after adjusting idle screw back to 1400rpm. The idle rpm is the same as before but only after i adjusted the idle screw. I also noticed i am giving it more choke on cold starts, before the sync my bike wouldn't like it if i choked the bike too much, there was a "sweet spot" for the choke. Now it seems to choke fine on any setting if that makes any sense.

I just wish i checked the gauges before performing the sync. I imagine if they needed calibration they couldn't be that far out considering they have only been used 2-3 times.
I am going to get a vacuum pump and test each gauge and if i find any of them to be off I'll just re-sync the carbs after i calibrate the gauges. Will be a couple days before i can test them, I'll report back on that.

The Throttle does seem to be smoother through the rpm range and wheelies effortlessly without having to rev the piss out of it like i used to. Its just the whole idle thing has me mystified.
 

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Its the same phenomenon- the idle stop is downstream of the the throttle cable with one or more butterflies in between. Your adjustment opens some and closes others, no telling what that will do to the idle; higher or lower- so you adjust it accordingly.

Its really not a big deal, nor is calibrating the instrument- you're looking for getting each carb doing as close to the same amount of work on each cylinder at idle and slightly off idle. Once the butterflies are open then the difference due to synch setting is insignificant. You can measure the vacuum in inches of mercury but who cares? What matters is how the carbs are drawing relative to one another.

Mine needs a lot less choke for a shorter period now; to be expected now that all 4 cylinders are running better.

Greg
 

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Its the same phenomenon- the idle stop is downstream of the the throttle cable with one or more butterflies in between. Your adjustment opens some and closes others, no telling what that will do to the idle; higher or lower- so you adjust it accordingly.

Its really not a big deal, nor is calibrating the instrument- you're looking for getting each carb doing as close to the same amount of work on each cylinder at idle and slightly off idle. Once the butterflies are open then the difference due to synch setting is insignificant. You can measure the vacuum in inches of mercury but who cares? What matters is how the carbs are drawing relative to one another.

Mine needs a lot less choke for a shorter period now; to be expected now that all 4 cylinders are running better.

Greg
I just assumed the gauges were calibrated, and a vacuum gauge that is not calibrated properly is kind of a big deal. If the gauges are accurate then my synch is balls on. I really should of taken the time to check them on a single vacuum line off one of the carbs. Now that the bike is together and im rather lazy, I'll just wait until i get my buddy's vacuum pump so i can confirm the gauges calibration.
Or ill just take a vacuum line off the power steering on my vehicle and test each gauge that way, lol.. Good idea now that i think of it.
 

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Ah I see what you mean- w./ 4 separate gauges how do you know they all read the same at the same level of vacuum. I'd say unless they're way out it doesn't matter- a carb synch is at best an approximate business. You can tweak and fiddle until the balance is perfect, then gas it and the synch will settle out differently, or it will change just because, or due to temp or just because it feels like it. Far as I'm concerned adjust till its reliably "close" and stays close ie you're not losing any cylinders. This is to stabilize the engine at throttle closed running & just off, its not a high precision adjustment. Your idea of testing the gauges w/ the known vacuum on a single cylinder is good- cheap, fast and easy and tells you exactly what you need.

The only thing more complicated and tricky than a bank of carburetors is a woman and theres no tool known for calibrating or adjusting them...

;)

Greg
 

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Ah I see what you mean- w./ 4 separate gauges how do you know they all read the same at the same level of vacuum. I'd say unless they're way out it doesn't matter- a carb synch is at best an approximate business. You can tweak and fiddle until the balance is perfect, then gas it and the synch will settle out differently, or it will change just because, or due to temp or just because it feels like it. Far as I'm concerned adjust till its reliably "close" and stays close ie you're not losing any cylinders. This is to stabilize the engine at throttle closed running & just off, its not a high precision adjustment. Your idea of testing the gauges w/ the known vacuum on a single cylinder is good- cheap, fast and easy and tells you exactly what you need.

The only thing more complicated and tricky than a bank of carburetors is a woman and theres no tool known for calibrating or adjusting them...

;)

Greg
Turns out i had a vacuum pump buried in the garage, lol. Gauge 3 was aprox. +2CM off, gauge 4 was aprox. -2CM off. Don't know if its enough to be concerned about... I'll probably just do it over again, sigh

It looks like the backplate of the gauge needs to be removed before u have access to any calibration screws. The gauges are not mine so i will leave any calibration in the owners hands.

+1 on woman
 

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Ok, I went ahead and did the carb sync over with gauges 1&2 that tested good. Took a little bit longer then using all 4 gauges from having to move lines back and forth.

1. Checked carbs 3/4 that were calibrated with bad gauges. re-calibrated with good gauges.
2.checked 1/2 required little to no adjustment.
3. plugged into carb 2/3 to sync 1/2&3/4 together
4.re-checked 3/4 & 1/2 adjusted if needed
5.re-checked 2/3 ,balls on done.

:horse
 
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