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Discussion Starter #21
gotcha! with only one screw per adjustment there is only one way to go either clockwise or counter. thanks. i would like to tackle this soon but lookin at the manual i downloaded it say special pilot screw adjuster tool required....is that true?
The specialized screw is a phillips screwdriver <grins> Best i remember a #2 should work just fine

-=<> Aaron <>=-
 

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so I just synced my carbs, along with a spark plug replacement (replaced the plugs first).

Carbs 1/2 were slightly off, 3/4 were way off! Got them all pretty even, according to the guages, didnt even have to touch the middle screw!

Took her for a test ride..unfortunately, it doesnt seem to be any better than before..if anything, its a little worse :( I'm pretty dissapointed...but then again, I'm sure I did something wrong.

One question...should the airbox be on or off when you do this? I had my airbox on..which is kind of a pain, because its hard to tell if all the hoses are secured properly etc. Anyone?
 

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so I just synced my carbs, along with a spark plug replacement (replaced the plugs first).

Carbs 1/2 were slightly off, 3/4 were way off! Got them all pretty even, according to the guages, didnt even have to touch the middle screw!

Took her for a test ride..unfortunately, it doesnt seem to be any better than before..if anything, its a little worse :( I'm pretty dissapointed...but then again, I'm sure I did something wrong.

One question...should the airbox be on or off when you do this? I had my airbox on..which is kind of a pain, because its hard to tell if all the hoses are secured properly etc. Anyone?
Every procedure I have seen said to install the airbox.
 

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I've read this "how to" twice and my brain feels like scrambled eggs. Is there anyone who can teach this in special ed format because my brain is just not getting it. (the how to connect this contraption to the carbs part)
 

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I've read this "how to" twice and my brain feels like scrambled eggs. Is there anyone who can teach this in special ed format because my brain is just not getting it. (the how to connect this contraption to the carbs part)
honestly this may not be the best explanation but, take your tank off and air box and it may start makin sense to you when its in front of your eyes.
 

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my setup was to do 2 carbs at a time not 4, i got 20 ft of clear 1/4" hose @ homedepot 3$ and drilled some holes in a yard stick then centerd the hose and attached it at the bottom and about 4 spots on the way up the stick then made a wire hanger a hook for the unit, i hooked up my vac. hand pump and drew in about12" of oil on each side... took a little while for the air to get out of the oil. then i hooked up the aux. fuel tank and started do carbs. per the book it says to set #1 at 2.7KPA thats like .3psi My vac. guage was showing it bouncing from 8-5psi and nomater how much i tried i couldnt get it to come down into spec,so i set #1 @3 turns out and it was smooth so i based it there. and man i had to adjust all of them. #1 was WAY off with #2 so much that it almost drew in some oil. but i can tell a diffrence in the idle and my bike just rolled over 13000miles
 

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To those who have done this 2 carbs at a time, did you reinstall the fuel tank, sync, remove, swap carbs, reinstall - or how did you keep the fuel supplied? I have thought about fabbing up a fuel bottle and connecting that - something i can hang up to get a gravity feed. Having the tank on means it is HARD to get your hand in there to turn the screw. Also, did you guys install the airbox or not? In a clean environment I'm not so worried about sucking something into the engine as I am worried that if I sync without the airbox the sync won't be as accurate.
 

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aux fuel tank

and how would with or without the airbox make any deffrence? all 4 carbs are in the same enviroment at the same time. now if u were tuning for a air fuel you might get more air without the airbox but your just making all 4 carbs flow the same amount. or i guess a better way to say it is your making all 4 carbs the same in the linkage, kinda like you have them all in time.
 

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A friend of mine is going to lend me his carb sync tool, like this

Holeshot Performance Products, Inc.

Anyone know what those brass tubes are for?
they are adapters . kawasaki s dont need them most of the time. but gsxrs and yamahas do need an adapter. its basicly so the rubber line will hook to the carbs "X" sized line
 

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Use colored water as it is a better reading due to the oil being heavier. Just a note, these homemade "inches of water" ones are more accurate than the bike shops "inches of Mercury"
 

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Just a note, these homemade "inches of water" ones are more accurate than the bike shops "inches of Mercury"
why do you say that? i have a home made unit with oil in it and a old school Hg style unit. the heavier the fluid the less bouncing of a reading you will get.
 

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water lifts over a greater range with the same vacuum, therefore those bounces are actually what your carb is doing. The lighter the material, the more accurate the setting. However, will it make that much of a difference,,probably not. But this is just how I do it.

Cheers...safe riding!
 

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OK I have read this whole thing 3 times and I get how to hook the hoses up and I get how to build the rig, but what screws do you adjust on the carb when making the adjustment??
 

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if you look theres a screw set downon the bottom half of the carb setup inbetween 1&2 2&3 3&4 kinda hard to miss
 

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FYI, I would plan a carb sync anytime you do the following:

Remove the carbs from the intake 'boots'
Change the jets in the carbs
Change the fuel screw positions

In the last week I have done all three, and each time I found the carbs were off. Granted, turning the fuel screws in made a much smaller difference, but there was a difference. Come to the Dragon next week and during our idle time we can sync your carbs with my redneck McGuyver manometer!
 

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ima do this to my little brothers zzr. he dumped it now its not running smooth from idle to half throttle. im hoping this is the problem.
 

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I know this is my first post, but I must chime in here. When syncing carbs you do NOT always sync 1-2 3-4 and then sync left and right bank. On some CBRs there is a master carb which I believe is number 1. You sync the other carbs to match this carb. If not done this way the bike will not run correctly. You need to check the service manual to know what time of sync is needed. Meaning you would match 1 to 2, 1 to 3, and 1 to 4.

The two system carb sync would still work with a master carb though. You would only hook up two carbs at a time, and sync to the master. Also I noticed no one mentioned that the you need to set the idle at a specific rate while syncing the carbs.

Good luck all, and thanks for the idea on a damn cheap tool!!!!

Yeah thanks for posting info on a Honda CBR in the Kawasaki ZZR600 modification forum. Which is specifically for the ZZR600 and not the CBR. The Kawasaki ZZR600 carbs have three screws, one for 1 and 2, one for 3 and 4 and one to sync the two banks. Carbs 1 and 2 are sync'ed and then carbs 3 and 4 are sync'ed, then the two banks are sync'ed.

I am not seeing how your helping anyone here that owns a ZZR600 with your info:duh2
 
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