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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
it says for the first 500 miles not to go over 4,000rpm... I was riding on a highway today and at 70mph I was at 5.500 in 6th

what are they (manufacturers) smoking, to make such a suggestion?
 

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I own license2ill
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Your engin needs to set in right or it will cost you a ton of money later when your replacing the heade,cam, ect. Also it will void the warrenty. Keep doin it and youll wander what you were smoking to do somthing so dumb.
 

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the manufacturers always say take it easy,

a lot of guys ive talked to and magazine editors swear that breaking it in hard is the way to go

those are your 2 choices
 

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Chaser said:
Service shops say Ride it like you stole it during breakin

Of course the service shop wants that...who are you going to bring it to when it have seal problems and such?


On the other hand don't you want to find out if it's going to break on you when you do ride it hard?
 

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How many times are people going to ask about this???
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so, you're saying I CAN'T ride it on a highway?
 

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There are 2 methods of breaking it in once you leave the dealership.
1- The Manufacturers Method
2-Ride it like you stole it method

I went with 2 and couldn't be happier. However, its your call.
 

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Filip75 said:
so, you're saying I CAN'T ride it on a highway?
It wouldn't be good to ride it at a steady 70 mph for a long time. You need to vary the speed and the load. Why don't you go put what's left of the 500 miles on it in the next couple of days on back roads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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do what the manufacture specifies. They arent idiots. There is a reason they tell you NOT to go over 4,000 rpms. dont rush it, you'll get there soon enough. I know its hard not to, and ya wanna really ride her, but just putz around town and you'll see that you'll start racking up mileage.
 

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I tried the not above 4000 RPM. Then I was able to talk to some guys that raced there bikes, and some others that tore them down and have rebuilt motorcycle engines. Then finally just asked some honda reps. The reason your told to break it in easy is basically to set the engine for as long as life as possible. Me on the other hand I dont plan on keeping my bike for more then 20K miles. WTF do I care if it runs 60-80K miles. I want the most power out of it, so I listened to everyone I talked to and they say break it in like you're going to ride it.

Several reasons for this. If you follow the break in procedure and only go to 4000 rpm for the first 500 miles, then 6500 for the next 500, when you actually finish this procedure your engine will be worn in for easy riding. So when you actually do start riding the ever lovin shit out of it, everyone does, "if you own a sport bike and haven't hit the rev limiter, sell it and get a cruiser you pansy" The engine will experience ab normal and excessive amounts of wear. Causing it to actually wear out quicker.

I have an 03 600RR I ran the shit out of it when I bought it, runs great starts everytime no issues.
My buddy bought an 03 Yammi FZ1 followed the break in to the T, his takes quite a few cranks to starts, and burns oil on start up, cause after he broke it in he started running 9-10K rpms and its showing it's adverse effects.

For those that think they know what there talking about, try doing some research, your not going to baby the damn thing, and you'll cause more wear on the engine taking it easy during break in then running it hard, cause after break in is when the engine will recieve it's abuse. If it's broke in that way, it'll run better.
 

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evils-03-RR said:
I tried the not above 4000 RPM. Then I was able to talk to some guys that raced there bikes, and some others that tore them down and have rebuilt motorcycle engines. Then finally just asked some honda reps. The reason your told to break it in easy is basically to set the engine for as long as life as possible. Me on the other hand I dont plan on keeping my bike for more then 20K miles. WTF do I care if it runs 60-80K miles. I want the most power out of it, so I listened to everyone I talked to and they say break it in like you're going to ride it.

Several reasons for this. If you follow the break in procedure and only go to 4000 rpm for the first 500 miles, then 6500 for the next 500, when you actually finish this procedure your engine will be worn in for easy riding. So when you actually do start riding the ever lovin shit out of it, everyone does, "if you own a sport bike and haven't hit the rev limiter, sell it and get a cruiser you pansy" The engine will experience ab normal and excessive amounts of wear. Causing it to actually wear out quicker.

I have an 03 600RR I ran the shit out of it when I bought it, runs great starts everytime no issues.
My buddy bought an 03 Yammi FZ1 followed the break in to the T, his takes quite a few cranks to starts, and burns oil on start up, cause after he broke it in he started running 9-10K rpms and its showing it's adverse effects.

For those that think they know what there talking about, try doing some research, your not going to baby the damn thing, and you'll cause more wear on the engine taking it easy during break in then running it hard, cause after break in is when the engine will recieve it's abuse. If it's broke in that way, it'll run better.
Do you know what the "power difference" you say comes with a hard break-in is? It's ridiculous.

Personally, it pisses me off that you don't care if it lasts 60k miles. YOU are the reason that people are afraid to buy used bikes. You bring your "ride like you stole it" broken in bike and put it against mine on the track. You might find that making the bike last, passing the love on down to the next owner, and learning how TO RIDE instead of worrying about squeezing an extra .5 HP out of the motor pays off in the end.
 

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I've seen several real world tests where two identical bikes were put on a dyno off the showroom floor for a baseline. One was ridden hard from mile 1, the other was done exactly to manufacturer break-in procedures. I can't remember which one it was, but one bike showed a 9hp increase over the one broken in properly. All of the tests showed at least a 3-5hp gain, so yeah, the power gain is real, but I can't say that the bike will run as long as the other.
 

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they say to gradually break-in your bike so that you cylinder and heads create a good seal so that you have good compression...the more important thing to remember is to vary your rpms so that you dont cause your cylinders to wear unevenly...thats also why its important to change your oil when recommended because during break-in you'll get a lot of metalic shavings and metal in your oil...i did it the right way and my bud didnt care and there was a noticable difference in the performance of our bikes...
 

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Mexican Hard Shell Taco
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I've been to some car assembly/manufacturing plants, and I've seen how they roll them off the assembly line to the testing facilities...


Let me tell you something, I would never drive my cage as they drive them in the factory during the final tests!
Motoman, from MototuneUSA, also said that. But I've seen it myself, thats why I went with the hard break in method, and my 150cc rides perfectly, burns no oil at all, and oil burning is something a CG125/CG150 engine is expected to do, and I can usually start it without using choke in Spring/Summer (it is a carburated OHV engine).

But it doesn't only works fine, it also performs better than every other 150 I've found out there, I've raced many other 125/150cc commuter bikes and I haven't been beaten ever. Before you flame me, we're talking about 125/150cc 4 stroke bikes, you can race them without breaking most speed limits, not that they cant, just that it would take a ridiculous amount of time to get to that speed.
 

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Mexican Hard Shell Taco
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Before my current 150cc I had another 150cc, I opened that bike's engine for a tranny repair. With that bike I followed the manufacturer break in method, back then I hadn't readed about Mototune's break in, and I wasn't pleased at all. It was SLOW, among the slowest 150cc bikes I've seen, burned quite a bit of oil and when I opened the engine I found signs of overheating in the piston, an incredible amount of carbon deposits and signs of a bad ring seal (coloration of piston past the rings, both of them, caused by the burning/hot charge blow by).
 
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