Sport Bikes banner

21 - 40 of 42 Posts

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
That's a SUPER good deal.

Not as cheap as mine, but it's in one piece, which is a huge plus...
 

·
Vampire
Joined
·
594 Posts
Clear title, clean bike.. I'm the third owner now, 1st owner had many Beamers; this one didn't get ridden much.
2nd owner has 2 small kids, not whole lot of time to ride, moving on to vintage Honda

Bike even cames with cases.. got it out in the daylight to take some decent pics.:





Engine output doesn't feel as powerful as my previous R1150RS, but seems to rev up quicker.

Alot more vibration than I remembered of my R1150RS, too.
Sitting at traffic light I can see the whole instument panel shaking like a Harley.

Got to take a weight mesurement, with cases and about 25 lb. of stuff in them, the bike weighs in at 560 lb., dude standing be the window is outside of the scale area:



Put 130+ mi. on it today, maybe more tomorrow.
 

·
Deutsche Rüstungsteilung
Joined
·
14,312 Posts
Very nice Cat!!!!! I always wanted a R1100S Boxer Cup Replica.

I'm sure I'll see it at Ephrata in the spring. :)
 

·
Vampire
Joined
·
594 Posts
Very nice Cat!!!!! I always wanted a R1100S Boxer Cup Replica.

I'm sure I'll see it at Ephrata in the spring. :)
Hope your recovery is going well, RT.

Took apart the side pannels to gain access to the battery for GPS power. What a PITA, even the snorkle tube had to be removed?



While in there, I cleaned it up a bit, I think I will justt leave the snorkle tube off the bike, anyone with a R1100S ever tried that?

My R1150RS had snokle tube much shorter in length, that doesn't rub against the paralever linkage as the R11S does.

 

·
Deutsche Rüstungsteilung
Joined
·
14,312 Posts
The bike looks awesome and I love the yellow. I miss my R1150R.
 

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
1. Don't leave the snorkel tube off.

2. It's not bodywork, it's tupperware. It's a BMW. You need to know the lingo.

3. The snorkel does not need to come off to get to the battery. If you pull the tank up. There's room to do it.

4. The snorkel tube does not rub the paralever. The paralever is the rear suspension. The telelever is the front suspension. The snorkel tube does not rub it if everything is put together correctly.

5. DO NOT LEAVE OUT THE SNORKEL TUBE.


I have an R1100S. Trust me.
 

·
Vampire
Joined
·
594 Posts
1. Don't leave the snorkel tube off.
Why not?

2. It's not bodywork, it's tupperware. It's a BMW. You need to know the lingo.
I've own BMW motos since 1990's, I know my lingo, no official mandate to call it anything.


3. The snorkel does not need to come off to get to the battery. If you pull the tank up. There's room to do it.
To get to the bolt that secures that tank, on the clutch side, one must remove the front part of the snorkle, which by the way, is an inlet, not a snorkle.

4. The snorkel tube does not rub the paralever. The paralever is the rear suspension. The telelever is the front suspension. The snorkel tube does not rub it if everything is put together correctly.
There is a strategically placed sticker on the telelever, just inch off the spot that the inlet tube rubs against it. I'll take a picture next time I have the body panels off again.

5. DO NOT LEAVE OUT THE SNORKEL TUBE.
You gotta provide a legit reason for something you order, twice.

I have an R1100S. Trust me.
It's difficult to trust someone when they're just shouting out orders without reasons.

I have owned 6 different BMW motos, worked on my R1150RS' clutch replacement and tranny input shaft replcement. I'd think I've had decent amount of experience working with BMW motos to know what I'm talking about.








 

·
Deutsche Rüstungsteilung
Joined
·
14,312 Posts
I don't think Kevin was "ordering" anything, just trying to get his point across that removing the inlet can be a bad thing. I took his post as helpful, not mean. :)
 

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
Great. You've done a clutch. I've done dozens. I'm not trying to be a jerk. I just didn't have time to write down all the reasons to leave on the tube.

I know it's an intake/inlet tube. YOU called it a snorkel. So I thought you meant you had to take the snorkel off, which is the back half. So you're just wanting to leave the front half off? I thought you meant the whole thing. Which is what holds in the air filter. Regardless, you want to get the air from the front of the bike that is still cool, not the air coming right off the left cylinder that is all hot. But yes- you have to take all TWO screws of the intake tube off to get the one tank screw. The intake tube is not what I'm pissed you have to take off. I'm pissed you have to completely take apart the front of the bike to get to the battery. If you don't have a aux. power point on your bike, wire one in in case you need to charge the battery ever.

If you want better airflow, look up the mods that people do to the snorkels. They claim about 3-4hp increase at the dyno, and it helps with surging/smoothness problems as well.

Nobody calls it bodywork/fairings/plastics or anything with the R1100S. It's tupperware. I was telling you so that if you run across someone talking about it, you'd know what it was. Most people get confused.

Again, was not trying to be a dick or give you orders. Just didn't want you throwing your bike back together without the rear half of the intake on it before I could explain, because as you found out.... it's a pain in the rear to take apart this shit.
 

·
Vampire
Joined
·
594 Posts
Great. You've done a clutch. I've done dozens.
If you have replace dozens of clutches on your BMW R1100S, you're doing somthing wrong.

Have you ever replaced a input shaft on the transmission of your BMW oilhead?

I'm not trying to be a jerk. I just didn't have time to write down all the reasons to leave on the tube.

I know it's an intake/inlet tube. YOU called it a snorkel. So I thought you meant you had to take the snorkel off, which is the back half. So you're just wanting to leave the front half off? I thought you meant the whole thing. Which is what holds in the air filter. Regardless, you want to get the air from the front of the bike that is still cool, not the air coming right off the left cylinder that is all hot.
My R1150RS has inlet tube right above the cylinder head, never had any problem sucking in the 'hot' air. BTW, temperature is near freezing where I am, I hold my bare hands closer to the cylinder just to get feelings back to my hands.

But yes- you have to take all TWO screws of the intake tube off to get the one tank screw. The intake tube is not what I'm pissed you have to take off. I'm pissed you have to completely take apart the front of the bike to get to the battery. If you don't have a aux. power point on your bike, wire one in in case you need to charge the battery ever.

If you want better airflow, look up the mods that people do to the snorkels. They claim about 3-4hp increase at the dyno, and it helps with surging/smoothness problems as well.
No, I don't mind the OEM airflow, I'm more interested in less screws to remove and carry less unnecessary weight.

Nobody calls it bodywork/fairings/plastics or anything with the R1100S. It's tupperware. I was telling you so that if you run across someone talking about it, you'd know what it was. Most people get confused.
Really? I'm nobody, thanks. I have never confused anyone with the way I call them.
Never heard of anyone calling them 'tupperwear' until I started riding with the scooter crowd, those scooters have some serious 'tuperwear'.
Do you own some scooters, too? I do.

Again, was not trying to be a dick or give you orders. Just didn't want you throwing your bike back together without the rear half of the intake on it before I could explain, because as you found out.... it's a pain in the rear to take apart this shit.
Thanks for clarifying your intent of 'not trying to be a dick'.
Appearantly, I should work on my reading skill and not to get confused when someone is repeating their concerns with all caps. No worries mate, I'll work on that.
 

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
Do whatever the fuck you want, dude. I'm not going to get into a dick measuring contest with you.

You ever wonder WHY I'm the help me fix it moderator on the biggest sportbike forum in the world?

Think about it. And if you want to stay around here, people don't like the kind of hostility you're bringing. I was honestly trying to help you. I don't know what kind of stick got jammed in your ass, but you'd best get the number of a good proctologist.
 

·
Vampire
Joined
·
594 Posts
Do whatever the fuck you want, dude. I'm not going to get into a dick measuring contest with you.

You ever wonder WHY I'm the help me fix it moderator on the biggest sportbike forum in the world?

Think about it. And if you want to stay around here, people don't like the kind of hostility you're bringing. I was honestly trying to help you. I don't know what kind of stick got jammed in your ass, but you'd best get the number of a good proctologist.

Is this a conduct of a moderator? threatening another member?

Is this kind of language necessary?

Have I used any foul language towards you?

I asked simple questions in my previous post, I think I deserve simple answers; instead you come back with this kind of post?

If I really want to increase airflow or performance of the R1100S, I would go with:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,160 Posts
Cat
Look at a later model, you might want to add the "Earth Pin"part # 61137671354 & protection cap, part # 61137672395 .
Making using a tender/ charger easier.

Add accessory outlets for GPS etc under the edge of the fairing in inside-front, powered by a heavy gauge fused line leading along the factory harness forward from the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
OP - great pics of a cool bike.

I want to get back on a bike and am considering getting a BMW (my first) and the 2 I'm really interested in are the K1200s and R1100S. sfarson, I see that you have (or had) both, can you offer some pros/cons on each, please? Anyone else with experience on these two models feel free to give your input.

One other concern before I jump on a beemer - maintenance. What exactly am I looking at getting myself into? Are we talking Ducati-type maintenance costs? My previous bikes were all Jap I-4s, i.e. FZR600, CBR900RR, R6, etc., which were pretty low maintenance.
 

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
I can't speak for the K bikes (but I assume they are similar....)

But the R bikes (the boxer twins) are SUPER easy to do maintenance on. There's no chain to adjust on either type of bike.... just change the tranny oil, final drive oil, engine oil, and adjust the valves every so often. On the boxers, that consists of removing 4 bolts and rotating the engine properly. No bodywork to even take off because they just stick out there.

So yeah- VERY low maintenance. Not a lot of shops work on them, but you don't need to work on them too much.

Clutches are a much b***** pain, though. But they do last a lot longer. They are more of an automotive-style clutch... big flywheel on the back of the engine, with a clutch disc and pressure plate. Transmission bolts over that. So to get to it, you have to remove the whole back of the bike and transmission. Not as hard as it sounds, but still more of a pain than just removing an engine cover.

But a clutch should last you 50k at LEAST, so there's that.

On the K bikes I don't know... I think they might have a more traditional motorcycle multi-plate setup. Never played with one.

The K12S is a GREAT bike, but it's a totally different animal than the R.
 

·
Habitual line-stepper
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
Oops, sorry. I should have specified, my concern about maintenance is related to costs. I'm not a DIY'er :(
Right, but since it's easier to do all the work besides the clutch, the labor costs are going to be significantly less to do the same work. And the service interval is pretty similar.

So they are not really any more expensive to own. Unless your ABS module goes out. And then it costs some serious bucks unless you can find a cheap used one and install yourself. Not SUPER common, but it's one of the more common issues. But, I mean... other than that and the final drives sometimes dying, there aren't really any issues at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Right, but since it's easier to do all the work besides the clutch, the labor costs are going to be significantly less to do the same work. And the service interval is pretty similar.

So they are not really any more expensive to own.
Glad to hear this, thanks! I will keep the Beemers on my list of possible bikes....
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
Top