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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i purchased a 2000 YZF600R (Thundercat) from someone and it rode well shifted well everything. Drove it for a few days all was fine. Yesterday i drove it about 20 miles, sat a little while drove about 12 miles into town and when i went to leave the bike wouldnt start.(In neutral, stand up, cluck in, clutch out, in gear etc) The oil light and the gas light come on and it didnt crank over. I know the bike has been dropped in its past and that it doesnt have the stock ignition in it, looks like they have a cheap car replacement ignition right on the left side of the ferring. Anyways, push started it and got it home to where about 20 minutes later i go to start it and it started up fine... Took my truck to work just in case. Get up the next morning to find it doing the same thing. Oil light, Gas light, no start. i know it has started and rode with the sidestand down because ive done it by accident before. Any advice? At least to help me narrow down the problem? Its been a couple days now and it wont start now. i can hold the start push button, force it around and i hear the Starter Circuit Cut-Off Relay thats under the seat make a little noize, if i mess around with the push button more and start turning the red killswitch on and off i can sometimes get the relay to click everytime i turn the killswitch on or off for about 5-10 seconds before it stops clicking and i have to figit with it again... I have the gas tank off now so i can see a lot more of the connectors. Any ideas?

Its not my battery, I checked that when the problem first occurred.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I have the front ferrings off and ive removed the gas tank as well to expose more of the wire connectors because i believe it has to be something to do with the kill switches or something.
 

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the symptoms that you are describing are a fairly good match for:

a weak battery. (either just weak/not holding charge, or a weak charging system that is not recharging the battery well)

a faulty wiring connection. (either loose, or corroded/dirty)

switches with poor contact. (could be dirty/corroded, or just worn out).

any way here is some things to check/do.

buy a ~30$ battery tender, and recharge your battery.
(does that fix problem?; yes(yippee, now figure out if your battery is the problem, or the charging system), no(piddle sticks, next))

clean the main connections to your battery, to the ignition, the start switch, all the ones you can find.(does that fix the problem? yes(yippie, now enjoy a chocolate malt), no(fuddle monkeys, next))

buy a ohm meter, and get a wiring diagram, then track down where the problem is.
(if it is a connection, clean it, if that doesn't work, wire around it. if it is a switch, go to my next sentence)(you might also find that some switch or cluddged wiring job by a previous owned is causing problems, have fun trying to fix their stuff)

switches with faulty connections can either be replaced, or taken apart and repaired. taking them apart can some times lead to them breaking, and you having to replace them any way.

if you decide to repair a switch, look at how the switch passes electricity from on part to the next. often times cleaning these contact points can help the switch flow electricity again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My battery is fine. My relay only clicks sometimes when I press the starter or switch the killswitch. But there is continuity through both switches. My kickstand switch button never gets pressed whether the kickstand is up or down. I'm not sure how it's supposed to look stock but I'll post pics up.
 

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My battery is fine. My relay only clicks sometimes when I press the starter or switch the killswitch. But there is continuity through both switches. My kickstand switch button never gets pressed whether the kickstand is up or down. I'm not sure how it's supposed to look stock but I'll post pics up.
How do you know the battery is fine?

As was said, your symptoms sound like a weak battery or bad connection in the starter or kill circuits which includes the side stand switch which I agree doesn't seem to be doing anything. Usually when that kill switch is defeated, it is wired so that it is ignored.
 

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Yeah, that sidestand switch should be closed with the kickstand down, and would cut the starter circuit. But I doubt that's your immediate problem since it worked previously and that switch isn't being activated in any position.

KeS
 

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Not that this will fix your problem, but I think the part of the side stand mechanism that connects the spring to the pivot point is on backwards. That lobe-shaped piece looks like it should engage the button on the side stand kill switch with the stand down if the part were turned around. Might have been changed intentionally?
 
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