[Mr.Sin]

Yeah I assumed as much. Thanks again!

 

[RayOSV]

Relays can chatter when there isn't enough current to keep the contacts closed. Relay closes causing large current flow to starter. Battery can't maintain the current flow and relay voltage drops below the point where is will stay closed. Relay opens. Repeat and you hear chatter.

This points to a dead/faulty/weak battery or high resistance connections (loose or corroded) either at the battery or at the starter solenoid.

Was the battery fully charged before installing it in the bike?

If the battery was fully charged and won't stay charged with lots of riding, then the charging system is suspect.

 

[Mr.Sin]

The battery wasn't fully charged before installation, but did sit on the tender while in the bike for probably at least a day before use... Light on the tender was green to indicate full charge at that point.

 

[OldSchlPunk]

Your bike doesn't spend a lot of time idling, does it? Many sportbikes don't charge while idling and will drag down your battery.

Agree with the bad connection argument. I had that happen once with my race car at a most in-opportune time (in the staging area about 15 minutes before my race). Everything looked fine but when I hit the starter, everything went dead. All it took was a little corrosion on the positive terminal and I couldn't draw heavy current. Two minutes later it acted just fine.

 

[Mr.Sin]

Got my multimeter today, will be doing what John recommended when I have the time over the weekend. Thanks everybody for the tips.

 

[Mr.Sin]

eh... battery voltage passed all the tests. Bike seems to be completely fine now actually.

 

[beowulf2k]

Heres the REAL deal dude.

1st. Make sure ALL connections clean and solid THEN The battery has to be PROPERLY charged and we aren't talking about a car charger.

2nd. The battery has to be tendered. Meaning if you don't ride your bike often, its not going to hold the charge.

3rd. Look at No. 1. because if it is not properly charged then you probably already screwed a cell up and OR its running on its "charge" which was not FULL.

ALWAYS get a battery tender. Always. And never "boost" a motorcycle with a running vehicle...OFF is fine, but running is a no no.

I used the better ones but these work as well..

Automatic Battery Charger - 12V

 

[Mr.Sin]

Yeah I don't think there is anything actually wrong anymore. I think either there was a loose connection that I fixed, or the battery was starting to run a little low and I wasn't riding it long enough for the charging system to charge it.

I already know all of the things you listed, I'm not clueless, just never heard that sound before. And the battery was charged using an automatic charger similar to the one you linked to (but higher quality). And I jumped it with my car off.

Anyway, I'll stick to short rides for the next week or so and see what happens.

 

[beowulf2k]

Yeah I don't think there is anything actually wrong anymore. I think either there was a loose connection that I fixed, or the battery was starting to run a little low and I wasn't riding it long enough for the charging system to charge it.

I already know all of the things you listed, I'm not clueless, just never heard that sound before. And the battery was charged using an automatic charger similar to the one you linked to (but higher quality). And I jumped it with my car off.

Anyway, I'll stick to short rides for the next week or so and see what happens.

Dude this is an 09....not an 89. These things are built with computers that do all the math for you. Unfortunately they cannot advise you on how to charge a battery...but they will do the rest.

Sometimes its best to keep it simple so im throwing it out there. Clicking...or buzzing ALWAYS means weak connection or battery.. and there is only 2 wires to the battery Positive/Negative.

What bike did you ride before?

 

[Mr.Sin]

I don't understand what you're trying to say. Yes there was obviously something wrong with the charge at the time time this happened. When I got it home I put it on the tender... The thing fired up fine later that day.

I left it on the tender for 24 hours and took it off. Multimeter showed between 12-13v.

I let it sit for almost 48 hours. Multimeter still showed between 12-13v.

I went for a 30 mile ride. Multimeter still showed 12-13v.

And it still fired up fine when I restarted it.

To me that says the battery and charging system are both fine... I don't get what you are saying.

And yes you are right. Only two wires go to the battery but I disconnected and reconnected both when I put it on the tender because I use the rings on my tender, not the clamps.

 

[beowulf2k]

I don't understand what you're trying to say. Yes there was obviously something wrong with the charge at the time time this happened. When I got it home I put it on the tender... The thing fired up fine later that day.

I left it on the tender for 24 hours and took it off. Multimeter showed between 12-13v.

I let it sit for almost 48 hours. Multimeter still showed between 12-13v.

I went for a 30 mile ride. Multimeter still showed 12-13v.

And it still fired up fine when I restarted it.

To me that says the battery and charging system are both fine... I don't get what you are saying.

And yes you are right. Only two wires go to the battery but I disconnected and reconnected both when I put it on the tender because I use the rings on my tender, not the clamps.

Most of the Tenders only PRESERVE what charge it has. It "might" give it a pep but its not made to charge batteries. Some of the newer battery tenders are made to charge AND tend. That could be the whole problem-but im sure you are going to say you have the "charger/tender"..lol This reminds me of the damper situation.

Check this out. This will help alot.

http://batterytender.com/includes/l...s/Product_Instructions_BT_Plus 12V UL-CSA.pdf

 

[Mr.Sin]

It's an automatic charger. It maintains it when it's full and it charges it when it's not... There isn't even a minor doubt that I have the right thing.

 

[beowulf2k]

It's an automatic charger. It maintains it when it's full and it charges it when it's not... There isn't even a minor doubt that I have the right thing.

Guess it just fixed itself...smart bike! laters

 

[Mr.Sin]

Dude. I'm not denying that the battery wasn't fully charged... In fact I would say that's fairly obvious by the fact that it wouldn't start without a jump.

Point is I jumped it... Rode home... Charged it... And now the problem is gone.

Why would I continue to search for the cause of a problem that appears to he solved by charging the battery?

 

[beowulf2k]

I love how you NOW make it sound like no big deal....ROFL. Glad you are up and running. I love you man...for real I do...

Dead/Weak battery

I suspected the battery, but I tried jumping it with no luck.

Battery is brand new. Bought about a month ago when I took the bike out of storage. I guess there is a chance I burned out the started when I had the starting issue back then.

Sorry for the triple post, but a little more info:
So I dunno, maybe it is a shitty battery... Or R/R even?

Wow thanks for the post. I was actually going to be doing large circles around my neighborhood within the next couple days to see what happens.

The thing that pisses me off if it is the battery or R/R is 1.) I replaced the R/R under recall a year ago even though my original one didn't appear to be faulty... so if the new one is faulty I'm going to be cranky with the dealership. 2.) Battery is brand new... like 2 months tops.

Oh well though. We will see what happens.

Dead/Weak battery

 

[albertrussell1984]

I suspected the battery, but I tried jumping it with no luck.

Check your starters solenoid. But. Worst case it could be the teeth on your stater and stater relay gear.

 

[Pokitren]

I have heard that in such cases people throw away batteries altogether, because there is a risk of it breaking at the most inopportune moment.