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Check that battery connections are tight and then check the battery voltage with a multi-meter. Often when a battery gets old it will get bad in one cell and the voltage quickly drops to 10 volts when you hit the starter button causing the solenoid to chatter. Try a boost from a 12v car battery and if it starts ok then it is time for a new battery. If not then the starter may be suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Battery is brand new. Bought about a month ago when I took the bike out of storage. I guess there is a chance I burned out the started when I had the starting issue back then.
 

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that sound is a relay buzzing, if you are stuck on the side of the road, bump start you bike to get home.

then do a quick check of these three things.

battery: does it have good voltage, and does that voltage drop to low when you try and start the bike. (unlikely, relays do not normally make that much noise on a week battery)

the starter relay: short around it, if the bike cranks over just fine, then the relay has died... replace it.(this is the cheapest option)

the stater motor: short around the relay, if the starter motor refuses doesn't work, replace the starter motor. (expensive)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Sorry for the triple post, but a little more info:

All of the electrical stuff was working fine (lights, display, etc...) but the bike wouldn't even turn over, it was just making that sound and as it made that sound the display shut off, then when I released the starter button the display would turn back on. Then I finally got it jump started and after running a couple minutes the bike shut off and none of the electrical stuff was working anymore. Then I jumped it again and jumped on it and took off right away... And made it home.

So I dunno, maybe it is a shitty battery... Or R/R even?
 

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Multimeters are cheap to buy and easy to use (just follow directions in the manual). Check the battery voltage at rest and with the engine running. A lead-acid battery should read 12-13v at rest and 13-14v when charging. If nothing obvious can be found (like a loose wire or connector) it is best to bite the bullet and have a dealer tech who has the proper equipment and manuals trouble shoot it. It is best not to mess with electricals unless you have experience with it. It does sound like a chattering relay or solenoid which may be defective.
 

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Get a good battery. Either that or the bike isn't charging the new one, and now it's probably toast too.

Check voltage with the bike off, while trying to start, and at 4000rpm. It should peak 13.5-14.1 at 4000.
 

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Clean your battery terminals. A corroded terminal will act just like that.

BTW, engine off and key on doesn't take much power at all. It's the starter that sucks big gobs of current.
 

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I don't think that's a battery issue. the starter solenoid will click but not like that. none that i've ever heard before anyway.

I'm betting that's something else. pull the seat off and find out what that noise is coming from
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've had it turned off and on a tender for the last couple hours and I went out to start it and it started up fine... I dunno. Second starting issue I've had this year... But with different symptoms, and both of them just went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Could heat soak make sense here? Like at all? It was pretty hot here yesterday and the bike was warming up longer than usual while I got ready to ride. Then I only made it a couple miles down the road before I shut it off, not long enough for air flow to cool it down at all. Then maybe I drained the battery trying to get it started.

That would also explain why the first couple times I tried jumping it, it didn't work cuz the bike was still hot, but then after sitting another 40 minutes or so it jumped alright.

Just asking of that's a possibility to rule something simple out.
 

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I kinda doubt it. I can let my bike sit at idle till the thing is cooking and it be 110deg here in TX and not have that happen. There's something weak in your charging system.....maybe R/R is failing??
 

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that sound is a relay buzzing, if you are stuck on the side of the road, bump start you bike to get home.

then do a quick check of these three things.

battery: does it have good voltage, and does that voltage drop to low when you try and start the bike. (unlikely, relays do not normally make that much noise on a week battery)

the starter relay: short around it, if the bike cranks over just fine, then the relay has died... replace it.(this is the cheapest option)

the stater motor: short around the relay, if the starter motor refuses doesn't work, replace the starter motor. (expensive)
This is a nice, comprehensive list. I doubt it is (2) the relay because you are getting the buzzing sound. In my experience, relays are on/off affairs, not a fluctuating failure mode. I think it is either the battery or charging system (1) or the starter motor (3).

Sorry for the triple post, but a little more info:

All of the electrical stuff was working fine (lights, display, etc...) but the bike wouldn't even turn over, it was just making that sound and as it made that sound the display shut off, then when I released the starter button the display would turn back on. Then I finally got it jump started and after running a couple minutes the bike shut off and none of the electrical stuff was working anymore. Then I jumped it again and jumped on it and took off right away... And made it home.

So I dunno, maybe it is a shitty battery... Or R/R even?
The display shouldn't shut off when your are cranking, so this points to a lack of battery power, so that's (1).

I've had it turned off and on a tender for the last couple hours and I went out to start it and it started up fine... I dunno. Second starting issue I've had this year... But with different symptoms, and both of them just went away.
Obviously, a tender won't fix the starter, so again we are looking at (1).

Could heat soak make sense here? Like at all? It was pretty hot here yesterday and the bike was warming up longer than usual while I got ready to ride. Then I only made it a couple miles down the road before I shut it off, not long enough for air flow to cool it down at all. Then maybe I drained the battery trying to get it started.

That would also explain why the first couple times I tried jumping it, it didn't work cuz the bike was still hot, but then after sitting another 40 minutes or so it jumped alright.

Just asking of that's a possibility to rule something simple out.
To me, heat soak problems are vapor lock of some kind, where the fuel line gets heated to the point where you don't get good gas flow when you try to start the bike. You would hear good cranking if this was a fueling problem. In rare cases, loose wires could be aggravated by heat, but that is "signal electronics" with low amperage, not "power electronics" like a starter motor. If a connection with power electronics is bad, you get big sparks with lots of noise and smoke from vaporized copper. You would notice that!

My suggestion: use the trickle charger for a good 24 hours, then unhook it and check the battery voltage. Check the battery voltage again 24 hours later. If the voltage has not sagged in that time, the battery is less likely to be the problem in my view. Then go for a long ride and check voltage a third time. If the charging system is failing then the voltage will have dropped. (A short ride will show battery drain from the effort of starting the bike. After a while riding, voltage should recover. With a bad charging system, the voltage will not recover. You might want to make big circles around your neighborhood so as to stay close to home in case the bike stalls and can't be restarted.)

- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Wow thanks for the post. I was actually going to be doing large circles around my neighborhood within the next couple days to see what happens.

The thing that pisses me off if it is the battery or R/R is 1.) I replaced the R/R under recall a year ago even though my original one didn't appear to be faulty... so if the new one is faulty I'm going to be cranky with the dealership. 2.) Battery is brand new... like 2 months tops.

Oh well though. We will see what happens.
 

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In case I wasn't clear, in my post with all three battery checks, this is with the motor off, so you are only checking the voltage of the battery, not the output of the charging system. You would just infer the output of the charging system based on the results.

- John
 
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