I would also suggest making a list of the settings you are trying each day you ride. That way you know what setting you used on a certain road, and how well it worked. And make adjustments in single turns, and then go out and try it. I would also suggest making sure your bikes settings, are in the stock settings. I have seen bikes leave the dealership without being setup in the stock settings, but these have been rare and few.
Proper Springs are probably 70~80% of the equation. So if you're a big/heavier guy, then your best bet would be to replace the OEM springs with ones made for your weight on that bike.
Having said that - SET SAG FIRST. And that does NOT mean to blindly copy what SportRider (or other magazine) says. You want to set the spring so the suspension uses about 35millimeters (1 3/8") when you sit on it. That'd be the difference from fully extended, so you'll need a buddy to measure when you lever the front off the ground on the sidestand/rear wheel. That accomplished, check that the bike sags a little all by itself - around 1/8" is a good target for that. If rider and static sags are in range, then you don't need to screw with springs. If the spring is too weak, then you'll find that when you wind it tight enough (if you can) to set proper rider sag, then you will have no (or almost no) static sag. Consider a spring swap then. Not that it's likely to happen for most guys, but if you have more than 10mm (3/8"+) static then you could consider installing weaker springs.
Then set your damping according to your owner's manual, SportRider, or whatever other source you have and go from there. Only change one thing at a time, and KEEP NOTES ON WHAT YOU DID. Because you *will* forget...