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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey whats up guys. like a dumbass, one day i heard just a little valve chatter/top end noise at idle and me being the perfectionist home mechanic, i decided to fine tune my ape cct (cam chain tensioner). the bike didnt need it so i basically wasted my time and was just hearing things. i adjusted it the other week good to where it was working great at high rpms (8k plus) but i decided to **** with it again and now i am in a little bit of a bind. can someone tell me how do you tell if the tensioner has made the cam chain too tight or too loose? i have also heard that you should adjust this while the engine is running, is this true? i did a test ride and i rode it in 3rd at 5k rpms and it seems that it feels rough and buzzy at those rpms. it gives me the sensation that the chain may be too tight but i dunno. please give me some suggestions guys.
 

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If you have an automatic style, then it is automatic self adjust and you need not worry about the tension.
You have a mechanical type you need to adjust a lot, then there is a specal way for that is a static adjust.

Which do you have?
 

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If you hear a high pitched whine, like a turbo, you have tightened it too far.

The link to the guide is good info
 

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APE is a static setting. So, how about you forget what you hear, watch the logical progression. Set your bike in gear. Now, move the wheel either way and watch what the chain does. Would you agree no matter where you lined up the wheel, loaded the chain i one direction, you would have a taught side and a loose side?

Yeah OK, so now wherever you are now on the crank, you just load the crank up to the point where the cams do not move. For precision that results in less noise and less wear on the, 'too tight' you guessing at it, is to pull the valve cover off.

Now, you turn the crank in the correct direction until you see the cam(s) move. Once you move the crank and the cam does not move, there is you chain slop. So you now tighten the APE with the crank loaded so a valve spring does not try to close and move the crank backward is why you have to keep loading the crank direction.

Now you have to tighten the APE with a thought that you want to reverse the crank just a touch and then move it forward. You want to move that static cam adjuster to the point where the slipper is pushed up against the chain so the cam and crank will not float on their own.

What you are doing is to move the slipper so it just starts to move the cam with the crank. Any tighter, then you make lines in that slipper because you have it loaded up like there is no slack on your back chain is now a guitar string. So figure it out, it is way too simple an adjust.
 

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All bikes used to have manual CCTs and when I was wrenching I adjusted maybe a thousand of them. Most all work like this:

Adjust the tensioner in until it feels snug but not tight.
Fully warm the bike.
Loosen the tensioner until you hear a death rattle noise.
Tighten it back until the noise disappears.
Loosen it about an eighth of a turn but not so far that any rattle returns. Some bikes called for a quarter turn.
Do this at every tune up.

To me, an automatic tensioner seems better. They give plenty of warning when they're going (same rattling noise except it goes away after you stop and start the engine) and they're automatic. But there is nothing really wrong with a manual CCT if you're willing to be bothered with it. If you don't adjust it regularly, you'll cause premature wear of the chain guide it pushes on.

You'll notice my instructions bear little resemblance to the guide above. It is intended that you retract the tensioner before you remove it, not that you lock it in place where it sits. The idea is to loosen the bolts when the tensioner is not under tension.
 

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jim the internet is never wrong...you should know that by now:eek:nfloor
Oh, you are going to know real soon...

I am going to disagree with '0L Jimmy is run my chain whip on the engine run. When you adjust the chain running, your odds are the chain is pulsing on a bad carb/jector sync is a pulse on a whip it loud-loose is about to need an adjustment is a few hundred miles say. Who knows where that whipped to?

You on the static dead engine adjust is do you also adjust valve shims running or has it been tried and true for decades about that, set the crank 15 degrees past TDC/#1cylinder, so you can let go of the crank and that position says set my chain in the static is Honda.

So, now like I said is you loophole the crank is read the rear wheel chain slop is static set the rear wheel or let the rear tire spin for 1,000rpm and now set the drive chain is what you are telling me? Same principal with me and screw that 15 degrees is screw running it too is better watch out who you listen to and that abstract walk is it talks solid evidence use gonna be in trouble soon.

Sorry, but 'on the run' is the not the hot setup and I will bet my static and Jim's/Way is not my way of setting up a sprocket. What with the automatic snap it goes auto dead engine or do you snap the auto when it runs? Doubt it. Or, how about the old weak spring in the old style adjusters which has that much tension that you know those CB750 Honda SOHC's are still running and no one adjusts a CB750 running is you do not want to, "Jimmy-Da-Chain."

:eatpop :lao

I'm da new guy in town. Yeah, I am one CitySlickerJimmy my locked door is the car is running is left the key fob on.
 

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Easy solution - sell the Honda and get another bike. :)

Sorry couldn't resist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tell your mom to cum adjust my cct beotch. just kiddin rayosv.anyways thanks for all the help guys. hey, if i did have the cam chain too tight would that mean that the bike would get a good amount louder (engine noise) than usual? i swear i am following the procedure right i just cant find the sweet spot between ticking and the rough feel it has when i test ride it.
 

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Well yes... If you have it tight against the slipper, it whistles. Ticking is a tight valve. Ticking is when you set the valves to spec the tick is still there. Then if it is, that sounds more a piston slap on the TDC and BDC slap my skirt on oil is quiet. Now there are score lines and high ridges that can lose tolerance and not slap as it transitions either direction is that tick noise.

See, you have to even find the high spot of an old cam chain. If you took the valve cover off or it has an adjust cap, you can look a the valve spring move up or down as you move the crank. So you can sneak up to the slop and take that out as loose or as tight as you can see it and you want less drag so you want to just kiss it so it stops on the slipper.
If you load it any more, you load the pivots and crack the slipper. The chain whips so it bow's the slipper on the lift and all that. Same deal is to argue with someone and have it all cum over yo momma is that trophy bitch about someone bitching about DOHC cam chains on some Honda and how you set that up. But no, that all knowing, closed minded fool had someone from Spain or out of country say he set up everyone's idea and guess WOT walked?

So now you have some old farts who remember how there once was a Honda CB450. It had a valve lash you had to hand fit down to 0015". But those who lit it up to set the valve and could nail a running, 0015" was how good was that mechanic!!! Go find a feeler that thin. Now tell me you can Jim Jones that Cool-Aid fell on the valve lash is drink up that idea is I used to replace burned cams and rockers if you car-Jimmy'd that bike running and now set the valves? lt is pretty funny if you ask me. Go search that laugh it up is they booted me and the Spanish guy threw that fill in the blank at the fan blade it smelled so sweet.

I'm the new guy and I do not mess around with your engines is hand fit my chain slop. Sorry dare. Gonna clean up dis ear part of da world is just one posted answer to your question. Work that abstract.
 

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I think I see some good info there...but I need a compiler to translate into a language I understand
 

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Oh, you are going to know real soon...

I am going to disagree with '0L Jimmy is run my chain whip on the engine run. When you adjust the chain running, your odds are the chain is pulsing on a bad carb/jector sync is a pulse on a whip it loud-loose is about to need an adjustment is a few hundred miles say. Who knows where that whipped to?

You on the static dead engine adjust is do you also adjust valve shims running or has it been tried and true for decades about that, set the crank 15 degrees past TDC/#1cylinder, so you can let go of the crank and that position says set my chain in the static is Honda.

So, now like I said is you loophole the crank is read the rear wheel chain slop is static set the rear wheel or let the rear tire spin for 1,000rpm and now set the drive chain is what you are telling me? Same principal with me and screw that 15 degrees is screw running it too is better watch out who you listen to and that abstract walk is it talks solid evidence use gonna be in trouble soon.

Sorry, but 'on the run' is the not the hot setup and I will bet my static and Jim's/Way is not my way of setting up a sprocket. What with the automatic snap it goes auto dead engine or do you snap the auto when it runs? Doubt it. Or, how about the old weak spring in the old style adjusters which has that much tension that you know those CB750 Honda SOHC's are still running and no one adjusts a CB750 running is you do not want to, "Jimmy-Da-Chain."

:eatpop :lao

I'm da new guy in town. Yeah, I am one CitySlickerJimmy my locked door is the car is running is left the key fob on.

That was probably the most difficult thing to decipher. I mean, read.

J_Harriston, the "sweet spot" is there. I promise you. If you fail to ever find it, I suggest you follow Ray's advice - I'll gladly buy that heap of ticking junk off of you for the right price. :)
 
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