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No I don't,but why do you ask?
 

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It's more likely AA 319. It has more copper / silicon in it to retain strength at high temps.

edit// aluminum alloys with three numbers (i.e. XXX) are used for castings like engine blocks, while four numbers XXXX are wrought alloys used for things like rearsets, clip ones, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ah thanks guys. Reminds me of my Metals classes, all the numbers and letters you got to love trying to remember them.

The reason I ask is because I am finally deciding to fix that oil leak and it is worse than I figured. Actually it's quite terrible. He told me he stripped the threads out, it's not the case at all. Went from going to put a helicoil in to totally blown out case, not cool. This bike was a serious race bike at one point and was laid down hard at the track. The oil pump side the lower two bolt holes(the two long ons) are torn out. I'm talking torn out of the hole casing. There is just half of the thread left. He filled it with JB welb, which is just pure junk. I spend the other day chipping it out. Going to drop the oil pan and pour some oil threw her before i start her up to make sure i get it all out--if i got some down in the oil. I will take some pics later this week so you can see what I am talking about and i'll take some after I get it welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea I saw that stuff. I really wonder how good it works. I don't like how easily it melts though, only good to 700 degrees. I would say it starts to weaken well before that though.

It's getting MIG/TIG welded and tapped out--that biatch will be as good as new
 

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Thats the best fix. But dont badmouth JB Weld, Ive used it to do some just amazinng stuff over the years, including reforming a cylinder stud hole in a case and threading it screwing the stud back in and it worked fine for many years! It wasnt the right way but on a POS I slapped together for a friends kid it was the best way....total cost less than 5 bucks. Worth?

PRICELESS to see his kids riding that old SL70 Honda for umpteen years. The dam thing is still running some 20 years later.... gets beat every weekend by countless new bikers! (all the kids friends too LOLz)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
^Yea your right, JB is pretty good stuff and very useful for some instances, but not the best for tapping threads into, expecially when you can MIG/TIG weld it and tap it for $50. It depends on how much you have to use too, re-forming half of the bolt hole, the length of the bolt, isn't really going to work very good. You can do a lot of things with JB weld, my friend who use to run in the "claimer" series in dirt races, JB welded a motor that was cracked half way down--quite impressive. It only had to last one race though. JB weld isn't usually a long term fix, unless it's a not stress point.

But anyway, I have it done. Welded,nd and tapped out, but still leaking--think it's just the gasket--just made a paper one. I am looking into getting a better gasket or something and checking the smoothness of the gasket surface. I am in need of some of that "Dead Soft" aluminum material, but don't know where to get a little sheet of it. I might just have to order some Mr. Gasket (not sure what it's made from) from SummitRacing.

I am considering RTV sealant on the cover and all the bolts also, or at least till I get that dead soft aluminum to make a gasket. Anyone have any other suggestions??
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The leak is around the oil pump cover. It is at the bottom bolt on that cover I believe.


Anyone know where to get a sheet of dead soft aluminum gasket material someone said MSC, but i can't find it on their website.
 

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So does anyone have the actual definitive answer as to what type of alloy is used in 2004 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R engine cases?
 
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