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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Someone requested that I document this, so here we go.

I received new ASV short levers for Christmas, but due to the holidays I just got them earlier this week. Tonight I got around to installing them, and I took pics in case anyone else if thinking about swapping theirs out.

First thing I will suggest is to collect the following tools:

phillips screwdrivers from the factory toolkit -IMPORTANT!

10mm socket and ratchet

set of metric allen wrenches (or use those from the factory kit)

clean rag

isopropyl alcohol

small dab of grease

instructions that came with your levers
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Let's start with the brake side. Since there is no cable this is the easier of the two.

if you look at where they brake lever pivots, you will see a large slot headed bolt at the pivot point. On the bottom of that is a 10mm locknut.

Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to completely remove the locknut.

Once the locknut is out, use the a slot head screwdriver to remove the bolt.

With the bolt out, the lever will easily come off if you push it gently forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where the old lever pivot is, you will likely notice some old grease and grime.

You will also notice some old grease on the 'button' plunger that pushes into the master cylinder. Use the clean rag and isopropyl alcohol to clean this first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Next part is pretty simple, take a dab of grease (the instructions show them using white grease), and put a small dab on the button plunger where the lever meets the master cylinder.

After this, slide the new lever into place and insert the bolt from the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Use the slot head screwdriver to tighten the bolt.

Check the lever and insure it is fitting properly.

Once you have done this, use the 10mm socket and ratchet to install the locknut on the bottom.

Check for binding in the lever. If the lever moves smoothly and contacts the plunger on the master cylinder, the install is complete on this side.

The second shot compares the stock brake lever with the ASV.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The clutch lever is a bit more tricky. The switch on the bottom of the lever controls whether the bike will start or not. If the bike is in neutral, the bike should start with no issue. If the bike is in gear, this switch tells the ECU whether or not the clutch lever is pulled in - if so, the engine will turn over, if not- it won't.

There is a pivot bolt on this side as well, with one difference: there is no slot on the head of the bolt. There is a 10mm locknut on the bottom, but it cannot easily be accessed with a socket - too many things are in the way.

Using a 5mm allen wrench, loosen the two bolts holding the bracket with connects the clutch lever assembly to the handlebar.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With the clutch lever assembly disconnected from the handlebar, flip it over. Note this pic shows it upside down. You will see the kill switch on the underside of the lever, attached with two phillips head screws.

In the blurry pic (sorry) you can see my finger pointing to one of the phillips screws partially removed.

VERY IMPORTANT! Use the screwdriver that came with the toolkit in your bike. These screws have a different pitch, and they have been dabbed with blue loctite. You will likely round them off if you do not use the screwdriver that came with the bike!

Remove both screws and you can take the switch off the lever assembly. Now you can access that 10mm locknut with your socket! :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now you are ready to remove the stock lever from the assembly. Pull out the bolt after you remove the locknut, and put some slack in the clutch cable using the silver adjuster. Once you have some 'slop' in the lever, line up the silver adjuster with the slot in the stock lever so you can remove the cable.

Clean up the pivot point with your rag and more alcohol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now different aftermarket levers may have different solutions for this, but the ASV levers come with a tab and two allen screws that attach to the bottom of the lever. This tab presses against the 'plunger' on that switch I pointed out earlier.

The bottom pic shows this part installed. The tab has two countersunk holes that go to the outside, so once assembly is complete the allen screw heads are recessed in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now install the clutch cable into the new lever and put the lever into the bracket. Insert the bolt, and tighten the nut to 5ft/lbs.

If you over-tighten, the lever will bind! Check for binding before putting that switch back on, else you will have to disassemble again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Now we need to reinstall the switch on the bottom of the new lever. Note in this picture and the previous the lever assembly is upside down.

There is a plastic tab that sticks out from the bottom of the switch, and this lines up with a recess in the lever itself. Line up the pin with the recess, then insert the two phillips screws, and again - use the screwdriver that came with the factory toolkit.

Did I mention that was important? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Almost done! flip the lever assembly over and line up the bracket with the handlebar. Get the other half of the bracket and the two 5mm allen bolts and line up the holes, insert the bolts.

Line up the lever at the position you want it at, and tighten the bolts on the clamp.

Note the stock lever, I just reused the original pic for this step :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Lastly, use the silver adjuster to remove the slack in the clutch cable and test the lever for binding. It should pivot without binding, and there should be no slop in the lever. If it is binding, you overtightened the 10mm bolt. Time to repeat the entire process! :bitchslap If not, you are good.

Check the position of the controls, and adjust by loosening the 5mm clamp bolts, adjust, retighten.

Check to see if the bike will start in neutral with the clutch lever out. Kill the engine, then put the bike in gear, try to start the bike. It should not start! Now pull in the clutch, try and start the bike - it should start!

Use the adjuster levers or wheels on the levers to move the levers closer in or farther out as you prefer.

Next you should take the bike for a spin and get used to the brake pressure and the position where the clutch engages/disengages since the new levers will have a different feel.

Adjust as needed and enjoy! (Wasn't so hard was it?)
 

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Looking good Ray!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looking good Ray!
Thanks buddy! You get those tires yet? I think you will like them. If not, I'll buy them off you and you can get PP2CTs if you want!
 

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Thanks buddy! You get those tires yet? I think you will like them. If not, I'll buy them off you and you can get PP2CTs if you want!
Yes everything finally came UPS. Tires, Carbon Fiber Front Fender, Galfer rotors, hex axle tool. I picked up a 32mm socket at AutoZone the other day for the rear axle nut. My local dealer only charges $24.00 per tire off the bike to mount and balance the new Conti's. Going to try and get everything done sometime next week. Only 9 more weeks of ski season left to go. Can't wait, this working 7 days a week is getting old quick. But the outcome is good, the new bike from all the hard work over the winter.:) As soon as I get everything done and put back together I'll post pics of all the new goodies.:cheers
 
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