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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help with the valve adjustment that I am performing on my '01 ZX-6R. I have pretty much everything I need to know except where the crank and cams should line up at. I am pretty sure the lines on the cams need to line up with the top of the cylinder head, easy part, but what about the crank? I see marks on the ignition wheel, but nothing on the housing.

If someone could post a pic, or if you have the Service Manual in .pdf format and would be willing to send it to me, I would appreciate it very much.
 

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Kawpuke Extraordinare!
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You need to take the #1 plug out and make sure the piston is at top dead center. Then make sure that the alignment mark on the timing rotor is pointing at the mark on the engine casing. You will want the cams positioned so that the heels of the lobes are down toward the cam followers. The lobes themselves will kind of point up and away from the cylinder head. Also there should be marks on the cams they need to be level with the top of the cylinder head. You will measure 4 valves on 1 of the cylinders and 2 valves each on 2 others. Then rotate 1 full turn and measure the other four. In any case make sure the heel is down towards the follower and the crankshaft timing mark on the timing rotor is lined up with the mark on the engine case..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is just the problem. I don't see a mark on the casing for the marks on the timing wheel to line up with. I guess that the easiest way for me to make sure the number 1 piston is at TDC is to check with a dial indicator. It would be so much easier for me to have a mark on the case. After bolting everything back down, I plan to rotate the engine twice to make sure everything lines up from where I started.

The way that you are describing to adjust the valves, sounds like you think that there are rocker arms with adjustable screws. Maybe I am wrong, but when you say to get number 1 up and then adjust those valves, then adjust two valves on the other 3 cylinders, that is where you loose me. I can't adjust mine like that. I have to rotate the cams so that the valves are closed for a particular cylinder, then measure the valve lash with feeler gauges. After checking each cylinder, I have to remove the cams and replace the shim with the appropriate thickness in order to bring the lash within specs.

I think what I am going to have to do is make sure that number 1 piston is at TDC by using a dial indicator and mark the case and timing wheel myself. Then set the cams with the marks lined up on the top of the head. Install the chain and tensioner, rotate the crank two turns, and check to make sure everything is lined up still.

I am really still interested to know if there is a mark and where it is. I would like to know if it was even set correctly the last time it was supposed have been adjusted at my 500 mile check up.
 

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Kawpuke Extraordinare!
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001438 said:
That is just the problem. I don't see a mark on the casing for the marks on the timing wheel to line up with. I guess that the easiest way for me to make sure the number 1 piston is at TDC is to check with a dial indicator. It would be so much easier for me to have a mark on the case. After bolting everything back down, I plan to rotate the engine twice to make sure everything lines up from where I started.

The way that you are describing to adjust the valves, sounds like you think that there are rocker arms with adjustable screws. Maybe I am wrong, but when you say to get number 1 up and then adjust those valves, then adjust two valves on the other 3 cylinders, that is where you loose me. I can't adjust mine like that. I have to rotate the cams so that the valves are closed for a particular cylinder, then measure the valve lash with feeler gauges. After checking each cylinder, I have to remove the cams and replace the shim with the appropriate thickness in order to bring the lash within specs.

I think what I am going to have to do is make sure that number 1 piston is at TDC by using a dial indicator and mark the case and timing wheel myself. Then set the cams with the marks lined up on the top of the head. Install the chain and tensioner, rotate the crank two turns, and check to make sure everything is lined up still.

I am really still interested to know if there is a mark and where it is. I would like to know if it was even set correctly the last time it was supposed have been adjusted at my 500 mile check up.

There has to be a mark on the engine case right behind the timing rotor. It may only be a small raised ridge on the engine casting someplace, but I am sure its there. No I know quite well that the late model ZX motors use shim under bucket adjusters. The bucket is still called a cam follower though. I went back and re-read my post I meant to say measure, instead of adjust the valve clearance. I am sure that sounded confusing. I'll go back and edit it in a while. So anyway the way it works out is that you measure the clearance on all 4 valves on 1 of the cylinders then 2 valves on 2 other cyliders. Rotate the crank one full turn and do the other 8 valves.

Also if the cams were out of time you bike would be running like crap if not bending valves. I really suggest forking out the $$$ and get the factory manual. Its pretty darn decent.. Also you can go to www.buykawasaki.com and look at the parts diagrams if need be..


This is what you want your cams to look like when #1 cylinder is at top dead center and you ready to do the first measurement.. I was in the middle of degreeing my cams with the adjustable cam sprockets I had....

Heh I might be on #4 at the end of the motor though. In any case thats what they need to look like. Lobes up and away, heels toward the follower.


 

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Kawpuke Extraordinare!
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As a side thought if no timing mark, just make sure the IN and EX markings on the camshafts are parallel with the top of the cylinder and you'll be good to go...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help. I might just have to break down and get the manual though. There are some other things that I would like to look at as well.

Thanks again,
001438
 

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You should get all your clearances with a feeler gauge first. Then rotate the motor over so the 1/4 mark is lined up with the left side of the stator housing. The cams with then be lined up so the marks are even with the cylinder head. Do not rotate the motor over any more! Remove the cams, measure the shims. You can use the chart in the factory service manual to see what shim size you need to put them back in spec. Obviously, only adjust the ones out of spec.

BTW, check your PM's!
 
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