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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought an F4i last weekend, trailered it 300 miles home where it sat overnight, then drove it 50 miles to the mountains where I'm garaging it the next day (was pouring rain).

I parked it, started it up the next day and let it idle for about 5 minutes and hadn't attempted to start it until an hour ago, at which point it wouldnt fire and the red indicator above the oil icon was on. Sorry, it did fire the first time I tried, it idled at 900 rpm for about 3 seconds and then died, never fired up again.

Any ideas on the problem? I googled it and saw a couple forum posts about this problem with the f4i, but no real conclusive fixes.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Isn't the oil light supposed to be on prior to the engine starting? I would guess the oil light has nothing to do with your problem.

Have you ensured that there is fuel in the tank? If so, check the spark plugs for fuel, and check them for spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was running late didn't do much in terms of troubleshooting, I'm now at my second residence. I had filled up about 40 miles away from where the bike is at the moment. I'm assuming there is still fuel.

Sounds good though was just racking my brain to see what I had to do on Monday to get it going again. Wouldn't have been able to sleep without a planned solution.
 

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first question, did you actual check the oil level and confirm it is good, and that the oil is fine?
Don't run an engine without oil, bad things happen.
once you know your oil is ok then move on to the not starting.

suck, squeeze, pop, fooie,
does the engine suck in air, are the filters clogged, mouse nest in the intake? does the engine get enough fuel? are the injectors working?
does the engine have compression?
does the engine have spark?
finally does the exhaust work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
first question, did you actual check the oil level and confirm it is good, and that the oil is fine?
Don't run an engine without oil, bad things happen.
once you know your oil is ok then move on to the not starting.

suck, squeeze, pop, fooie,
does the engine suck in air, are the filters clogged, mouse nest in the intake? does the engine get enough fuel? are the injectors working?
does the engine have compression?
does the engine have spark?
finally does the exhaust work.
I'm an idiot with mechanics, have no idea what you just said, but I'm mouseclicks away from google and I'm on my way to figuring it out.

When letting the starter do all the work everything sounded as if the bike was inches from starting, nothing was different with the pre firing sound. All that was missing was actual fire up.

Did the rain have anything to do with anything? when wheeling it into the garage my temp DID go up 10 degrees in a 30 second period, water was dripping down and steam was rolling out. Obviously putting something cold and wet on something hot would create steam, but could a side effect have taken place due to the combination?
 

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checking oil:
1 get bike on fairly level ground
2 balance bike so its level
3 check oil level, use the sight glass on the right hand side in front of the oil fill cap. (you look at it threw a little hole cut in the faring.) oil should be 1/2 way up the glass. oil should be clear/brown.

actualy, since you just bought the bike it would be a good idea to change your oil anyway.
here is a video
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry, meant to quote your second paragraph, mainly with injectors working, compression and spark. But having posted that confusion a little bit ago I'm already privy to what you're talking about, and I plan to do a full troubleshoot when I return. I found this video and plan to proceed accordingly. He has the same symptoms I'm having at the moment, however my bike is only 8500 miles, which makes me wonder if the plugs actually need replacing and maybe it's simply a weakened battery. It sounded strong trying to start, but it's a new bike to me so I'm not 100% sure with the bike.

I'm a dirtbike rider, do sportbikes require lots of juice to keep running? Typically if I get a bike going it goes, with a sh!t battery or not. Would the bike starting and running (cold) at 900 rpm for 3 seconds explain a faulty battery?

 

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Some of these fuel injected bikes do not like to start if you are twisting the throttle while you try . So much as touch the throttle on my duke and it will not start it just floods instead .Another couple of bikes I had After a long period of sitting would become reluctant to start . I warm the headers with a hairdryer to give the cylinders some warm air to aid vaporisation and they fire right up .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting sequential, I'll give that a try. After the bike died after 3 seconds and wouldn't start after 5 seconds of holding the button, I did give it tads of throttle, maybe I dug my grave there.
 

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You F4i guys, would his starter crank with a bad kickstand or clutch interlock switch?

KeS
No, would not crank at all, wont the 'click' we hear either.

Bet ya dollars to donuts his battery is either pooched or real tired. Hit it with a trickle charger, that should be your second step.

First step, make sure the ignition kill switch is in the start position.
3rd step, make sure yer not in gear and you got the green light.

The oil light comes on when the key is turned. BEFORE you turn the engine over, you HAVE to wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to engage and the computer to do its test.
Your "rpm" gauge will go from 0 to its stop pin, then back don to zero. Now the bike is ready to turn over.

If the machine was fine when you put it away, its most likely the battery. If you have an aftermarket alarm on it, they kill the battery like crazy. Not sure why, but the F4i is notorious for that.

Anyway, try the basic steps first.

RC


EDIT: Just re-read the OP; ya, take a good look at the charge on that battery. Quick note, dont ever start your bike and let it idle for five minutes.
The battery will NOT recharge at idle. All your doing is stealing the AMPS that you needed in the first place.
Also, when you just let it idle like that (for short periods) the engine gets warm, pipes get warm, fan will work like 90 to keep it cool. That alone kills the battery.
All your doing to the bike is taking the oil sheen off the cylinders, and allowing moisture to form in the exhaust pipe. Neither of those are good things.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
EDIT: Just re-read the OP; ya, take a good look at the charge on that battery. Quick note, dont ever start your bike and let it idle for five minutes.
The battery will NOT recharge at idle. All your doing is stealing the AMPS that you needed in the first place.
Also, when you just let it idle like that (for short periods) the engine gets warm, pipes get warm, fan will work like 90 to keep it cool. That alone kills the battery.
All your doing to the bike is taking the oil sheen off the cylinders, and allowing moisture to form in the exhaust pipe. Neither of those are good things.
Okay, was a new bike had to show the pops and it was still raining so we didn't ride it. Good to know thanks for your response.

Btw I have a car charger (both jump and trickle) at the bike's location at the moment. Not sure what amps, I think it's 12 and 2. Is a bike battery too small to be used with these amps? I would guess just throw it on trickle for a few minutes and it would be fine, but I'd rather know prior.
 

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Sorry, I'm on my phone and I type like a 3 handed monkey on this thing .

Take the battery out to charge it, do not try to boost it with another battery or vehicllw.

Use a trickle charger that specifically is made for small batteries like your bikes. Charge it over night.

Do not use your heavy duty car battery charger period.

Google proper way to charge it so you don't duck up a hundred dollar battery
 
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
A 50 mile trip followed by at MOST 5 minutes of idle followed by a dead battery the next week...could we conclude a battery on its way out, if this is indeed the case?

Edit: This is of course assuming the charge on the battery fixes the bike not being able to start.
 

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Real hard to tell from here without looking at it;)

If you got a volt meter, and know how to use it, see what the betters reads.
If the bike ran fine, and only started once after yer trip, it is very possible you exhausted the charge while it was idling.

Try the trickle charger, they're cheap. Next step is a new battery if you keep having problems.

After that, your in a different frying pan. Try thee steps first before you get worried.

The f4i is mostly billet proof with only one major issue ii remember.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tendered the bike to "Fully Charged", tried starting and it ALMOST wanted to go, maybe even started for 1 seconds, then of course died and wouldn't start. Tried for about 5 seconds more, wasn't starting and in that time the tender showed it wasn't fully charged anymore. Going to leave on over night and try again in the morning. The tender was on for maybe 3 hours before trying to start...maybe some way somehow overnight will change something (I doubt it).

Next step is plug inspection even though the bike only has 8500 miles and I know guys who've gone 22k without replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Prior to jumping on the spark plug project I pinned it for about 10 seconds while holding the start button, fired up at the end of 10 seconds, I held it at 6k rpms as to not let it die again and as of 2 PM today it's started up no problem about 4 times. Maybe it was bad fuel due to the DUMPING rain on the way home.
 

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Prior to jumping on the spark plug project I pinned it for about 10 seconds while holding the start button, fired up at the end of 10 seconds, I held it at 6k rpms as to not let it die again and as of 2 PM today it's started up no problem about 4 times. Maybe it was bad fuel due to the DUMPING rain on the way home.
Dude, you seriously should not be working on your own machine.


*A trickle charge for three hours will achieve next to nothing. Dollars to donuts you simply hooked whatever charger you had around and attached it to your battery while still in the bike.
*Another dollar says you tried to start it with the tender attached as a "booster"
*You purposely revved your bike on a cold start to 6,000 RPM and held it there???
*Your bike is fuel injected, not carburated--if you honestly think that water got into your fuel lines or spark plugs and somehow bunged your bike due to rain, you really really need to take a basic mechanics course.


I am happy you got it going, and that it doesn't seem to be a serious problem. Now that its working, ride to the library and get a basic motorcycle maintenance book.

I hope I'm not coming off as a dick, because that is not my intent. I honestly want you to be able to understand the basics of your machine, and to increase your knowledge of how it works. Don't wreck it because of your current knowledge limitations.

We all started somewhere.

Cheers

RC
 

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rugby i have to disagree with you.
he should only be working on his own bikes, i sure as hell ain't letting him work on mine.

Jfaden23, now that you have the bike running, get yourself a factory manual.
do all the maintenance things to the bike, this way you know that the bike is set.
it will also get you more familiar with the bike.
Motorcycle Repair Course
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I revved it for maybe 3 seconds at 6k rpms on a 15k redline bike. Wouldn't be the smartest thing to do every morning, but doing it once really isn't going to be detrimental to my bike's health.

I've also heard from a buddy who works at a gas station when he checks fuel levels while it's raining a decent amount of water gets into the station's gas (flash floods were everywhere for about 3 days in california) and I'm sure we all know water sinks in gas...strait to the pump outlets. Was a POS town anyways as I didn't realize the HUD showed reserve only and not my actual tank so I had to fill up in a random station, so it's very likely it was bad fuel that had settled while it sat.

Tendering the battery was just the first step in a long list of to-do's, many people stated start with that step anyhow, was just leaving up to date steps in case anyone wanted to chime in with a "Oh well if it was fully charged after 3 hours..." or whatever...and as I said it WAS fully charged after 3 hours on a tender, which is why I attempted a start.

I read the tender instructions, gives clear instructions on plugging in the tended in a specific order as well as removing when attempting to start your vehicle. All good there too.

Appreciate your advice but it seems like you're looking at each situation as negatively as you possibly can. Do you not see ANY logic in my actoins now that they've been explained? I'm obviously not a master mechanic like many of the people on this forum, but you're trying to make me come across as straight stupid.
 
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