Adjusting rear tire after chain ajustment - Page 2 - Sportbikes.net
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 08:23 PM
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just measure form swingarm mount
equal distance on both sides
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 06:21 PM
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I'm not sure why anyone thinks it matters. As your rear wheel goes up and down, it follows an arc in regards to your front sprocket, with said front sprocket being the center of that arc. So the distance from the front sprocket to the arc of the rear sprocket will be the same no matter where the front sprocket is.
Draw a circle using a compass. measure from the center of that circle to the edge. Anywhere. It doesn't matter where, if the measurement is different you are not in the center of the circle.
I check my rear wheel alignment using a 2$ laser pointer, a 1" square cut from a 3x5 index card and 4 links from an old chain. Oh, yeah, a paper clip. I put the old chain links over the rear sprocket, with the end links sticking up. The Laser pointer goes between the link ends sticking up. The laser points toward the front sprocket. Now I take my square of 3x5 card and use the paper clip to fasten it to the front sprocket. Now gently turn the rear sprocket a little. The laser will show up real good on the index card and you can follow it with your eye as it goes over the teeth on the front sprocket. I also keep an old curtain rod marked with my standard setting. Then I adjust as necessary to get both sides equal and the laser on target. Since I have marked where normal is, it doesn't take but a couple of min for it to be right. Then I install the chain, tighten everything up and ride off into the sunset.
I still like to have a bud follow me a bit to see if there is any wobble. Got to keep my reputation as an anal retentive alive.
So what do you do when your self adjuster falls off?

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 10:20 PM
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except the rear sprocket follows an arc in regards to the swing-arm pivot.

which isn't the front sprocket, so the distance between the front and rear sprockets changes.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 12:40 PM
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2old2race,
You sir are a retard.
your post would be valid if the front sprocket was the pivot point.
BUT IT IS NOT.
the pivot point is 4-6 inches behind thefront sprocket. At the swing arm bolt
SO YOUR CHAIN SLACK AND ALIGNMENT DOES MATTER!
too much and you burn up your chain and sprocket prematurely.
too loose and well, we all know what would happen.
Mount your rear tire to the left or right slightly and go down the road and see what your bike does when you take your hands off the handlebars.... it wants to track left or right.
not to mention the nasty repercussions of your chain tearing away at the sidewalls of your sprockets....

Apparently you have never ridden any type of bike that has a lot of rear suspension compression. You can plainly see the chain tightenup upon compression.
Do us all a favor and keep your dumb and thoughtless comments to yourself.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 01:30 PM
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I've never worried about it too much. The hash marks have always been accurate enough for me, as long as there is no visible wobble and the bike tracks straight I just ride on. My Triumph doesn't have hash marks though so I use a caliper to measure from the end of the swingarm to the adjuster block and make sure they're the same. No major issues yet.

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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaredmausteller View Post
just measure form swingarm mount
equal distance on both sides
This is the most practical way to adjust and balance the rear wheel from the swing arm.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 12:07 PM
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I made a tool -- Wheel gauge 2 - YouTube
Just used a rod and an old coat string slide stop --


Works great.
Was going to package some and try to sell them but never got around to it, enjoy!

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Rider and customizer of my ride.

Last edited by FZ6R-rider; 07-23-2014 at 01:40 PM.
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