|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-07-2013 07:28 PM|
Sorry guys, I got bummed and let the bike sit for a while untouched.
I just fixed it though.
Ok, turned out to be the regulator/rectifier. I bought one off ebay and it fixed the problem.
During the process I accidentally swapped two connectors in my tailsection (still not sure what extra one goes to its white and triangle shaped) which caused me to pop a fuse. That fuse in turn killed the cluster. Once I saw what I had done I connected the correct connector and my fuel pump again worked.
|01-13-2013 03:26 PM|
|rgbeard||OP is post-n-run?|
|01-09-2013 06:54 AM|
|12-30-2012 02:36 PM|
|12-30-2012 12:32 PM|
^ Some people regardless how much online insight (help) you give them can never solve their own problems !
Not saying this is the case here, but it is the case far too often.
"I put some jumper cables on her and she starts up. Runs for about 5 minutes then died."
I am going to assume you had unhooked the jumper cables after it started running and then approx 5 minutes later it died.
That being the case, your battery likely got a bit of a surface charge from the other battery it was jumped from, then went dead again while idling (as noted most motorcycles do not charge well or at all while idling, certainly not enough to charge a dead battery back up.)
At any rate the cause of the dead battery (assuming once again it was dead which seems likely) is what you need to diagnose. Voltmeter is your friend, along with the service manual for specs.
So resting voltage of the battery is what? If ths isn't more than 12.6v then you definatley should fully charge the battery before continuing.
If you get the bike started and running at say 3000 rpm, now what does that reading go to? If this isn't atleast 13.8v then again you have some other issues which can be a few things.....bad stator, bad battery, bad connections (broken, frayed, corroded etc...)bad regulator/rectifier...all of which are easily diagnosed properly with the service manual and a voltmeter.
Did you check the state of charge of the new battery before installing it? Because a fully charged battery (12.8v or more)even with no charging system would have started the bike and ran it for possibly as long as 100 miles, depending on electrical draw of the running bike. However if electrical connections are the blame for the original battery going bad/being dead~~they also could contribute to a new fully charged battery not getting all its power to the bike as needed...
TRO--You leave far too many unanswered questions to give any more help than what has been provided already. Not to mention you haven't chimed in since your original post...
|12-27-2012 02:28 AM|
|12-27-2012 01:47 AM|
|Vaishali||I think you need for a help with a good bike mechanic. It definitely solves your problem.|
|12-04-2012 09:37 AM|
also, have had experience with a "new" battery being bad too. if you don't have a voltmeter - GET ONE!!!! you can find out so much about the health of an electrical system with a voltmeter, it's worth it's weight in gold!!! got my first one when i used to race R/C cars (back in the 80's). i still have it but it's joined by 3 others. i do NOT want to be without one.
and like others have said... CLEAN THE F OUT OF THOSE CONNECTIONS. it does not take much corrosion to stop something from working. working on Bomber Avionics proved that out more times than i can shake a stick at.
|12-03-2012 04:51 PM|
if it is the stator/coils, like for tpcarc's buddy, and the backlog means you can't get the part you can try rewinding the stator. most towns have a shop that will do it, and there are plenty of internet places that will. but it isn't cheep (if somebody in your town offers to do it for cheep walk away, it is worth paying a professional for this job. i mean i would rewind my own stator, maybe, if i was ok with having to try several times to get it right but i wouldn't take money to rewire a stator).
|12-03-2012 03:53 PM|
I mean- the battery was definitely dead. Whether or not that's his ONLY problem is another story.
|12-03-2012 03:06 PM|
A buddy of mine has the same year make and model. Same thing happened to him. He'd be out riding, 10 or so miles, bike would die. Would be fine to jump, get a few minutes, then die.
Turned out to be a bad stator. Took it to the shop, been in the shop for the last three months due to national backorder on that part.
Hope yours turns out to be something else, but just wanted to let you know my experience. Good luck sir.
|12-03-2012 01:49 PM|
If it was just a dead battery the bike should have stayed running after being started.
that's why i suspect corroded parts, high resistance connections, intermittent connections...ect, or a bad/weak charging system.
besides cleaning is cheap, and should be done anyway. batteries are expensive.
but yes definitely charge and load test the new battery to make sure its good.
|12-03-2012 01:24 PM|
The original problem definitely sounds like a bad battery.
What kind of battery did you replace it with, and did you properly charge it before installing?
|12-03-2012 01:19 PM|
Maybe the new batter was a bad battery? It happened to me. I got a brand new battery and had to get it replaced shortly thereafter because it crapped on me.
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|12-03-2012 12:40 PM|
first up, cleaning. clean your terminals, clean your, contacts, clean you connectors, clean your fuses, clean clean clean clean. clean until you know that you have low resistance reliable connections from your battery to your wiring, and charging system.
then get the bike started and test your charging system.
does it have enough voltage. (14 volts or so)
if yes, figure out if you fixed your problem.(if your problem comes back go over your wiring with a fine comb, look for something causing problems.)
if no, start on the charging system.(regulator, rectifier, coils)
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