How To: wire up a garage door opener to your flashers - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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How To: wire up a garage door opener to your flashers

This is a simple, cheap mod that you'll love if you have a garage door opener.

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products...t.asp?Item=ASG

It's $30 (I picked it up at the motorcycle show for $20) and it took about 30 minutes to wire up.

Tools required:

Butane Soldering Iron ($10 at Radio Shack)
Solder
Multimeter (also $10 at Radio Shack)
Wire stripper
Zip ties
Wrench for a chassis bolt (8mm on the Ducati Supersport)
Your push-button garage door opener


Your bike may require a different kit. There's another part number on that website - this 5pg2 model is the "Universal" one for most sportbikes.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Step 1:

First locate a good spot for the wiring harness. You'll need access to:

- power (a cable that comes on only when you turn the key on)
- switched power (headlight flashers or brake)
- somewhere to store/stick the circuit boards

I chose to install this all under my seat and use the brake instead of the headlight flashers.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2:

Using a small eyeglass screwdriver, pry open the garage door opener to expose the circuit board.

You're going to use the multimeter in continuity mode (basically select any of the modes on the Ohm selections). Touch each prong of the multimeter to a couple of the points where the button hits when you press it.

I've marked my points with a red Sharpie - you can see the small marks in the picture.

When I touched these two points with the multimeter, my garage door opened.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3:

Light up the butane soldering iron.

On the wiring harness, there is a black and white cable that are bonded together. These are for the points we marked in red on the opener circuit board.

Using a wire stripper, expose a small amount of wire in the black, and then the white wire.

Lightly coat each wire with a small amount of solder. Hold the exposed, coated wire to the point on the circuit board, and touch the point with the soldering iron lightly. Pull up quickly to solder them together.

Do the same for the second wire and point on the board.

After the solder has cooled for a bit, wrap the wires around the assembly once or twice, then cover in some plastic and electrical tape. This will serve two purposes:

- it will hold your soldering points better, as a slight tug on the cable won't loosen the joint
- it will protect the opener board from shorting out if it touches a bolt or other metal
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Last edited by bzbatl; 03-24-2007 at 05:51 PM.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Step 4:

Now we're ready to wire it to the bike.

Again we will use the multimeter to check the wiring on the bike. Unplug the brake harness, which is located under the seat.

Lay the negative terminal of the multimeter so that it's touching a bolt that's connected to your frame.

Turn the bike on (do not start it) and touch the positive terminal to each of the exposed connectors. Note which wire is "power". Mine was the yellow, center wire.

Now hold down the brake and again check the terminals to see which one has power while braking. Mine was the green, outside wire.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Step 5:

Your kit will include two wire-snap clips to connect the kit to your wiring harness.

Use one on the "power" line and connect it to the red wire on the kit.

Use the other on the "brake" line and connect it to the yellow wire on the kit.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Step 6:

Strip about an inch of the black cable. This is your ground - either wire it directly to your negative terminal on the battery or a bolt attached to your chassis.

I made a loop and wired mine to the seat bolt.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Step 7:

Plug the brake harness back in.

Turn the bike on and test it all out. The small LED on the kit should light up when you turn it on.

Tap the brake twice quickly to engage the opener.

Assuming everything is working correctly, now select a location near the gauges for the indicator LED. Thread the LED cable up to the front to the location.

Zip tie everything to the frame or other cabling. Be sure to keep cables away from excessive heat, such as the engine or the exhaust.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Step 8:

Test everything out again. Turn the bike on and check to make sure the LED lights up.

When you tap the rear brake twice quickly, the LED will flash and turn green. The garage door should start to open then.


Wiring it to the headlight flashers is similar. Just unplug the wiring harness connected to your flasher control and follow the same procedure.

I would recommend cutting the wires to length for that application, as it's less convenient to hide the wiring behind the fairings.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 05:53 PM
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 06:24 PM
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I'm a little unclear what the little black box is with the 4 or 5 wires coming out of it? Details please.

You have to make sure the garage door opener is a 12 volt, right? A 6 volt opener won't work?

I've seen a lot of people hook them up to their highbeams switch. Flick the highbeams once and POOF, the door opens. Handy trick.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin726
I'm a little unclear what the little black box is with the 4 or 5 wires coming out of it? Details please.

You have to make sure the garage door opener is a 12 volt, right? A 6 volt opener won't work?

I've seen a lot of people hook them up to their highbeams switch. Flick the highbeams once and POOF, the door opens. Handy trick.
The black box with the wires detects the input from the brake switch. You have to tap it twice quickly (like double clicking your mouse) to activate it.

That way it's not going off all the time draining the opener's battery.

The black box is 12v. It does not matter what the opener is, the black/white wires just create the circuit. when the switch is activated.




And yes, you could also do the highbeams - it's basically the same thing, but I'm usually on the clutch when I'm pulling into my driveway... tapping my rear brake twice is much easier since the rear brake on the Ducs are pretty useless

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2007, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzbatl
The black box with the wires detects the input from the brake switch. You have to tap it twice quickly (like double clicking your mouse) to activate it.
OK, thanks. I didn't realze the opener still was using the original battery.

Going off the highbeam switch can be done without that box, but then then the opener is wired so that it gets power from the bike and not it's own battery. Then of course you couldn't do the whole "double click" thing, which is kinda cool.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-25-2007, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin726
OK, thanks. I didn't realze the opener still was using the original battery.

Going off the highbeam switch can be done without that box, but then then the opener is wired so that it gets power from the bike and not it's own battery. Then of course you couldn't do the whole "double click" thing, which is kinda cool.
In that case, you'd have to make sure your opener can take a 12V current. Otherwise you're wiring up a voltage regulator, resistors, and capacitors to make sure you don't fry the opener. I think most openers batteries are only 1.5V.
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