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Old 07-07-2007, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Need Troubleshooting Help

I'm on the road right now and having trouble with my bike. I have very limited access to computers, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.

The symptom:

The bike dies when I pull the clutch in... but not every time. Usually when I pull it in to downshift. I have to restart the engine, and then it'll be fine for a bit, but always happens again... sometimes right away... or sometimes hours later. It seems to happen more frequently the longer I've been riding that day. No problems in the morning, but starts to happen mid-day. It seems to also be worse the hotter the weather/bike is. The bike has always restarted, so I was never left stranded... but it's disturbing to be far from home and have your bike dying almost every time you go to downshift.

What I've done so far:

Went into diag mode when I was at a Holiday Inn that had a computer so I could research codes. It was giving the following codes:

d03: 82 (not sure what this is, couldn't find any info here on it)
d05: 22
Fault Code: 22=
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.
d06: 23 (not sure what this is, couldn't find any info here on it)

I inspected my bike and found that I had not completely closed the cap on the coolant reservior when I added a bit of distilled water before leaving, so I thought this might have affected the pressure in the system and caused the problem. I fixed the cap and then disconnected the battery to attempt to reset the sensors. This didn't solve anything... but now the codes I'm getting are different...

d03: 94
d05: 34
d06: 34


Code 34 is supposedly a ignition coil problem, but only under diag 31? so now I'm confused as to what the problem might be and I'm still hundreds of miles from home. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys!

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Old 07-07-2007, 01:20 PM
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If the IAT sensor was malfunctioning I wouldn't think it would cause such a problem. Then again, if it was malfunctioning who knows what types of signals it is throwing out? In any case, I believe from that all you would have is a leaner or richer A/F, not stalling.

Is it a quick stall or a slow, sputter out type of stall?

The only two things that really make sense (to me) are fuel and spark. If you cut one or the either it's going to die as you say it is.

Have you tried pulling the clutch lever in while still giving the bike throttle? If you haven't I would try that and see if it does or not.

Is performance the same, or is it less? Can you get the bike to idle, if so for how long?

I guess if you can answer those for me I can try to think further, but right now I have more questions than helpful ideas.
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HGFireHazard
Is it a quick stall or a slow, sputter out type of stall?
It's a quick stall... as if I had flipped the engine kill switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HGFireHazard
Have you tried pulling the clutch lever in while still giving the bike throttle? If you haven't I would try that and see if it does or not.
I haven't tried this, but I'll give it a shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HGFireHazard
Is performance the same, or is it less? Can you get the bike to idle, if so for how long?
Everything seems to be the same, except for the engine stall... and it always fires right back up again after it happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HGFireHazard
I guess if you can answer those for me I can try to think further, but right now I have more questions than helpful ideas.
I appreciate the help... I have to cross Nevada tomorrow, and I'm nervous about it happening and not starting again when I'm out in the middle of nowhere alone... in 115 degree weather. but I'm also not keen on going to a dealer in another state that I'm not familiar with either.

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Old 07-07-2007, 01:56 PM
 
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Have you checked the obvious, like bad kickstand or clutch switch? You know, some malfunctioning safety feature that would automatically kill the engine.
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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...how would I check them for being faulty? I looked at them and checked the connections, nothing looked wrong with them... from the outside anyway.

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Old 07-07-2007, 02:27 PM
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A safety feature of the bike going bad (as mentioned, kickstand, etc.) should be happening at different points of bike use, not only just after pulling the clutch lever. I don't see a relation to one of those or the heat either.

I'm still racking the brain about it, let me try and look some stuff up.
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Old 07-07-2007, 02:56 PM
 
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d05 tells you air intake temperature and in celcius and offcourse that you get different values because it is temperature,you need to go on position d62 and see how many errors are listed(in numbers),than you go on position d61 and see what error code is listed(number) and tell me so I can tell you what is wrong If on d62 is 0 and on d61 is 00 than errors are not detected
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Old 07-07-2007, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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I went through every diag code and they are pretty much all zeros or state "on"

d01: 17-101
d03: 94
d05: 34
d06: 34
d07: 0
d08: 0.6
d09: 0.0
d20: on
d21: on
d30: 00
d31: 00
d36: 00
d37: 00
d48: 00
d50: 00
d51: 00
d52: 00
d60: 00
d61: 00
d62: 0
d70: 0

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Old 07-07-2007, 04:48 PM
 
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[QUOTE=Lucky_Devil]I went through every diag code and they are pretty much all zeros or state "on"

d01: 17-101
d03: 94
d05: 34
d06: 34
d07: 0
d08: 0.6
d09: 0.0
d20: on
d21: on
d30: 00
d31: 00
d36: 00
d37: 00
d48: 00
d50: 00
d51: 00
d52: 00
d60: 00
d61: 00
d62: 0
d70: 0[/QUOTE

You battery voltage(d09) is showing 0.0 and should show above 12.0,maybe there is problem but it is better to check in official servis This is codes that I used from XT660.com because I have XT too but basicly it is the same codes

01 : Throttle position - must be from 15-17 (closed) to 97-100 (opened)
02 : Atmospheric pressure given in mmHg (normal is 760 - average weather)
03 : Differential pressure between air and intake pipe
05 : Air intake temperature (in Celcius)
06 : Cooling liquid temperature (in Celcius)
07 : Absolute speed (must be 000 in garage). Check with rear weel.
08 : Lean angle safety switch control - must be from 0.4-1.4 (upright) to 3.8-4.2 (horizontal). DISMOUT THE SWITCH FOR CHECKING !!!
09 : Battery voltage - must be above 12.0
20 : Side stand switch - displays ON or OFF
21 : Neutral gear switch - displays ON or OFF

Part II : ECU memory check.

60 : EEPROM error code presence - 00 means no default, 01 or 02 means default on corresponding cylinder (blinks if both cylinders).
61 : Error Code memory log - Displays 00 if no error code in memory, displays the Error Code if any (11 to 50). Display changes every two seconds if more than one Error Code in memory, then start again from first.
62 : Displays the number of Error Code in memory. To clear the memory, switch the Engine Run Switch to ON position (no backup).
70 : Check Code number, display from 0 to 255

Part III : Activators - To activate, turn Engine Run switch from OFF to ON - Engine check light is activated too.

30 : Coil 1 is activated 5 times per second.
31 : Coil 2 is activated 5 times per second.
36 : Injector 1 solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
37 : Injector 2 solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
48 : Air duct solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
49 : Air intake solenoid is activated 5 times per second.
50 : Fuel injection relay is activated 5 times per second.
51 : Cooler fan is activated every 5 seconds.
52 : Headlight relay is activated every 5 seconds (2 seconds ON, 3 seconds OFF) - 2003+ model only

Last edited by g-tec; 07-07-2007 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:15 PM
 
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I now checked on my XT and d09 is showing 12.4-12.3
You should go to a dealer and point to that and if there is problem they should replace it under warranty
GOOD LUCK
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:26 PM
 
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These things seem really sensitive to battery voltage and seem to need a good full charge in the battery.

Mine failed to start when I'd left it a week and the battery dropped to something under 11.5v. She cranked over really nice and fast but simply wouldn't fire.
I put it on charge over night and she fired up like nothing was wrong next day.
That was 8 months ago and no probs since.
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:27 PM
 
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Looking at your post again and ignoring the fault codes, those symptoms sound like the TPS fault.
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