Easiest FZ6 Pod light mod - driving light and alternate flash - NO RELAYS-NO DIODES!! - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Easiest FZ6 Pod light mod - driving light and alternate flash - NO RELAYS-NO DIODES!!

Today I went to the garage with:
-2 R1 pod light sockets
-2 amber LED marker lights
-an extra lenght of black wire,
-a box of crimp on connectors
-some heat shrink tubing
-2 - 5 pin relays
-wiring diagram that I printed from another forum on the subject

I started on the left side. I hooked up my test light to determine which wire was the marker - which was the turn signal wire. I then went to verify that the black was hooked to ground, it was - but I also found that the flasher wire was also hooked to ground when it was inactive. So the flasher wire was switching between 12 volt and ground as it flashed. This gave me an idea. I hooked my test light between the turn signal wire - and the marker light wire. When I turned on the key - the marker light and the test light came on. When I turned on the turn signal - the stock blinker flashed alternated by the test light flashing. It is exactly the behavior people were using relay's for.

The concept is simple - if you put 12 volts on each lead of the pod light (Turn signal flashing) - pod light turns off. If you think of it in other terms - if you put exactly the same amount of water pressure on each end of a water pipe - the water can't flow. The same applies to electricity. When the turn signal wasn't flashing is was connected to ground - and the pod light came on again.

So - I pulled the stock R1 contacts out of the plastic connector. I then cut and extended the stock R1 contacts so they would reach the back side of the stock FZ6 turn/marker connector. I used the shrink tubing to insulate the exposed R1 connector - leaving some of the contact sticking out. I then simply slid the exposed end of the R1 terminal into the back side of the FZ6 connector. Zip tied the connections in place. Done! Works like a charm. Don't need to modify the stock wiring at all - don't even need to disconnect the stock wiring for that matter. Couldn't be easier.

Now all I have to do is bring my relays, and the crimp connectors back to the store and get my money back!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 07:15 PM
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sounds good, got any pics? i've been meaning to do thisfor a while but i hate the thought of cutting/drilling my headlight housings...

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 07:48 PM
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wiring confuses the hell outta me... i have no idea what you just said... but i would like to do the pod mod...

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2007, 11:24 PM
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Congrats on the new mod! I got my pod turn signal kit from fendereliminators.net Time consuming since you have to take most of the front end off to get at everything, but not difficult at all. You can basically take the whole light assembly apart without tools so if you drop debris into the headlights after drilling you can just stick a vaccuum hose in there. Just don't forget where all the screws go.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 03:03 AM
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Yup, that's the best way to wire it

If you dig through the lighting/pod light threads, you will see that is indeed the way that others such as myself have wired their pod lights. Nice and easy, with no extra hardware. Just connect the pod light wires to the positive wire on both the turn signal and running light.

The pod lights illuminate as running light, and then as a bonus, they flash alternatedly with the turn signals. (Meaning when the left turn signal blinks on, the left pod light blinks off, and vice versa.)

I went ahead and spliced/soldered all of my connections though. There will be no "shoving wires into the back of connectors" on my vehicles.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Jim, I looked at your page when I was researching this mod. I didn't see anything there describing the way you did it. Glad to hear others have figured this one out also.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Another trick that I used to make the pod light holes - I mounted a piece of thin walled tubing on a heavy duty soldering iron - and melted the pod light hole thru the back of the housing. No shavings - no mess. Just get it back out quick to keep the smoke out of the housing. Also - make sure not to go too far thru and touch the lense. I used a exacto knife to trim the outside ridge of plastic - the inside was fine. It worked like a charm for me. Normal disclaimers apply. Will work on pictures later.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 12:43 AM
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Huh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reggie View Post
Hi Jim, I looked at your page when I was researching this mod. I didn't see anything there describing the way you did it.
You mean that the quote (with embedded link) on my webpage that says:

Here's a link to how I wired the pod lights to flash alternately with the turn signals, and work as running lights; all with no relays:

Wasn't descriptive enough?

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Originally Posted by Reggie View Post
Glad to hear others have figured this one out also.
Agreed. In my opinion, it's the easiest and coolest way to do the pod lights.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 12:52 PM
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Reggie, what is the manufacturer and part # of the signal bulbs that you used?
Thanx, Rob.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrevans View Post
You mean that the quote (with embedded link) on my webpage that says:

Here's a link to how I wired the pod lights to flash alternately with the turn signals, and work as running lights; all with no relays:

Wasn't descriptive enough?



Agreed. In my opinion, it's the easiest and coolest way to do the pod lights.
It would probably help if I had jrevan's mod is the sticky'd aftermarket mods listing. I'll add both of yours.


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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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FAZERRR - Here is the info for you - '03 Yamaha R1 pod light sockets (Yamaha Part Number: 5PW-84312-00-00) They cost around $8 each. The bulbs were LED JamStrait part number 194A (Amber). I got them at Online Auto Parts and Auto Accessories Store at PartsAmerica.com (Checker auto parts). Online price of $12.99. Picked them up at the store.

Jim - it was great to meet you. Your page was a big part of my inspiration to buy a FZ6. It is nicely done. Sorry I missed the link.

Last edited by Reggie; 12-11-2007 at 09:05 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2008, 02:01 PM
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Talking No relay, No diodes, and NO SOLDERING!!

I love this pod mod for it's simplicity. The fact that no soldering is required is the best part. I didn't want to remove the fairing to make the holes and I only needed to remove the two inner side panels to gain real easy access to the back of the pod location. Grind off the nub and start with a small drill bit working your way up to the 9/16". While drilling I had the shop vac fired up and placed as close as possible to the tip of the bit. I can't say for sure if that is the reason I ended up with no plastic shavings inside the light housings, but it couldn't have hurt!
The R1 connectors need to be carefully removed from the plastic plug as Reggie says. Before you use shrink tubing to cover the majority of the exposed connector there are two little pins about 1/16" that stick up which need to be bent down flush with the rest of the connector. After you do that, cut your shrink tubing to long enough to cover all of the connector's metal surface except for the tip, which is about 3/8" long. The cool thing about the connector is it actually "clicks" into place when you insert it into the back of the wiring harness side of the turn signal connector. The connector will only go into the back of the plug one way, so even though I know it's not true, it almost seems like it was made to go together that way. Of course I still used a zip tie to add extra stability/security. I have a small soldering iron but it would sure be a real pain to splice into the connector wiring and then solder the wiring without removing the fairing. Maybe if I was younger and could do the contortions involved or if the electrical load of the pod lights was greater ( I used LED's), then I would solder. I did not even solder the 2" extensions I spliced into the R1 wiring. Instead I used some marine grade heat shrink crimp connectors I have left over from my sailboating days. They are marvelous, waterproof, and I never had one fail in 10 years of boating. When you heat them up to shrink them it also activates a glue that permanently seals the connection from water and air, so no corrosion, ever.
This mod looks great and will take about 1 hour including cleanup and testing as you go along. Thanks to Reggie and all of the other pod-mod contributors.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 01:39 AM
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