How-To: FZ6 to FZ6-N Naked Conversion - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Cool How-To: FZ6 to FZ6-N Naked Conversion

Ok. Here is my approach at converting the faired version (US spec) FZ6 into the UK-spec’d naked bike… FZ6-N. I have to say that this is by no means a tell-all. This was my approach based on me being picky about a proper conversion and I am sure (ask tassue) that there are and will be many more ways to do this, all of varying difficulty.

Here is a link to the original discussion by tassue
http://forums.sportbikes.net/forums/...0&page=1&pp=15

To begin – some differences with the FZ6-N (these will make more sense once you read all the way through)

1. Radiator covers and the clutch side radiator hose is reinforced
2. Master cylinder has 10mm tap. Clutch lever has a 10mm tap.
3. Wire and Cable routing varies
4. 8mm taps for the headlight bracket
5. Meter wires
6. Horn location
7. No centerstand

Tools and parts:

This is a list of “all” the parts you need to convert your bike over. NOTE: I’ll list some more parts you could buy if you wanted too…. You know… for a more complete conversion.

These first few deal with the headlight unit (as shown in post #2)
(Quant.) (Part Ref) (Part #)
1 1 1B3-84300-00-00
1 2 2F9-84314-00-00
1 3 5JW-84397-00-00
1 4 5DM-84347-00-00
1 5 5JW-84346-00-00
Parts 1-5 are all quoted as one unit. All inclusive. Use sep. only for replacements.
2 6 90480-14008-00
2 7 90480-12072-00*
1 8 1B3-23121-00-00
1 9 1B3-83599-00-00
1 10 1B3-23131-00-00
1 11 1B3-8431R-00-00
1 12 1HX-27415-00-00*
1 13 90464-15157-00*
2 14 95027-06014-00*
4 15 90149-06302-00*
1 16 1B3-23174-01-00
2 17 90480-14585-00*
2 18 90480-11057-00*
1 19a 1B3-28307-00-00
1 19b 1B3-28307-10-00 note: I didn’t order this one – don’t know what is it?
4 20 95817-06012-00*
The bracket that tassue had to make has part # 1B3-23327-00

For the meter cover:
Cover - 1B3-83559-00
2 90167-05076-00 screw, tapping
2 90179-05523-00* nut
2 90149-05299-00* screw
2 90269-05049-00* rivet

Parts with a * can be ordered from Ron Ayers or your local Yammy dealer as a really nice discount.

Other tools/parts:
# Heat shrink tube (1/4”) and some larger stuff
# wire strippers, soldering iron, electrical tape
# a bunch of zip ties – weather and UV resistant recommended.
# 8mm drill and tap set (if you want to tap the holes for the headlight bracket)
# 10mm drill and tap set for tapping the master cylinder for a mirror
# Self tapping weather resistant screws – if you don’t want to tap 8mm holes
# mirrors and a mirror bracket for the clutch side. Link to Mirrors I purchased 2086831 but it was closely followed by 2021711 and 2064531. The mount is at the bottom.

Of course, as mentioned, there are other parts that can be ordered OEM. One that I should have ordered is the bracket that holds the brake line to the headlight bracket, but I am using 2 zip ties, which seem to work fine. Also – might be a good idea to ask about the OEM front turn signals. The US version ones are HUGE!

2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...
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post #2 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Process

Hmmmm… that should be enough to get us to the actual process! Oh and for most of this stuff – refer to the service manual, as there is no need for me to write everything.

1. Remove all of the old fairing stuff. Be careful, as you can resell the stuff and offset some costs. The only thing that goofed me up a bit was taking off the turn signals. You have to use a flat head screw driver to pop the plastic cover off the back of them, then they just slide out. You’ll reverse the process to insert them into the side headlight covers.
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here

2. Disconnect the main wire harness and put it aside. Remove the horn and the blinker relay (in the clutch side). Remove the tank (have a towel or rag handy as it will leak a little gas out). Remove the entire air box, the battery cover, the battery, the battery box assembly (have to disconnect the coils). Also - you’ll need to remove the little plastic “brackets” that hold the wiring down and the battery box in place – you get to these by unscrewing the two bolts on the frame. This will leave a wide open space to work in. Also – put some rags or paper towels down the throttle bodies to keep stuff from getting in them. Also – good time to check/replace the TPS if needed….
Pics Here
Pics Here

3. Now it is time to take off the horn and put the headlight bracket mount on. Temporarily place the headlight bracket in there (mount screw and top screw)… Check out the spots to be drilled/tapped… and start with the initial measuring, seeing how the headlight goes on, etc… I didn’t tap mine b/c that means you have to remove the upper triple tree and work on it. I also think you make have to remove the lock cylinder to get to the clutch side hole… which is not an easy task due to the fasteners they used… my advice is to drill a hole and use self tapping metal screws… as tassue pointed out. Warning: you will be taking the bracket on and off about a hundred times so get used to it. Also – don’t place the self tapping screws in all the way until you are about done. That is one of the last steps. Now on to wiring.
Pics Here
Pics Here

4. Upon studying A LOT of pictures of the naked bike, I realized that the main front end wire harness (the one you have removed by now) comes out through the throttle side, so I wanted to reroute it that way. I turns out that this side of the harness is too long and the other side that connects to the meter and lights is also too long. So… time for some cutting and soldering. This is also a good time to relocate the turn signal relay (relocated to the battery box cover – see pics). Pull the wire harness inside the bike. Unwrap the plastic material around it and measure so that the connectors end up with enough room to sit behind the coils when reassembled as well as sitting them stacked against the frame in the middle (see pictures). Once the wires are exposed, set the turn signal relay wire aside, and cut the wires as needed (I cut about 4-5inches off). Also – cut off the excess plastic wrap (you can use this later on the main wire harness). Strip the wires, place some heat shrink tube on there, then solder all the wires (don’t cross any!!!!!) and shrink the heat shrink. Re-wrap and electrical tape stuff as needed. Make sure the turn signal relay wire is still out and exposed (it will not need to be cut!). Remember…. Measure twice, cut once.
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here

5. Now it is fun with the main harness. I am not going to try and give specifics, as that would require huge amounts of complicated text… but I did was unwrap the entire harness and spread it out. I then went and measure how long it could be so that there would be no binding or pulling. I ended up cutting A LOT of wiring off (be sure to save what you cut, we’ll use it again later). I had the pod lights on mine, so I had to remove these as well as rewire the headlight connector. I ended up using the wiring for one of my pod lights to connect to the 5W bulb, which I replaced with an LED. It is pretty straight forward and you don’t have to worry about polarity on these. As for the headlight connection – I took the always on one (the one with the green and black wires) and cut the connector open so I could remove the green wire. This green wire is then inserted at the TOP of the yellow and black (high beam) connector. Trim off the of old ground (from the low bean green wire connector) and trim the new assembly to length.
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here
Pics Here

6. After positioning the meter on the bike on the bracket and with the back cover… I noticed that the meter wire length was MUCH TOO SHORT (when I compared to picture of it from a naked bike). Also – with the stock wire length on the meter, the connectors put a lot of pressure on the back cover plate. Using the excess wire I had from shortening the main harness (~10 inches) I lengthened the meter wiring about 9 inches. It turns out that is plenty long… 5-6 inches would have been better. Now just wrap everything up with electrical tape and make it look professional. I used that piece of plastic wrap (from the harness now inside the bike) to wrap the bit of harness that comes out of the frame on the throttle side now. Makes it look really nice.
Pics Here

Ok, so by now you have spent a week of your life that you will never get back and all you have done is the wiring inside the bike, a newly made main harness, and the upper triple tree holes drilled. Now it is time for the good stuff: hooking things up and doing some more wire/cable routing.

7. Disconnect your throttle cables and clutch cable. Disconnect the ignition wiring from its clip (inside the bike near the throttle bodies, one white and one red disconnect) and pull this outside the bike. Lay everything so that it can be easily routed. Assemble the meter and the cover to the headlight bracket. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS BEFORE YOU PUT THE BRACKET ON THE BIKE!!!!!!!!!! Now you can position the bracket, and screw it in place. Next, turn the handle bar back and forth to lock on either side and figure out the best way to route the cables and wires through the bracket. The way I did it can be seen in the pictures. You will probably find that zip tie’n things in place will help a lot and zip tie’n the cables at the point where the frame comes together will help in keeping binding to a min. Now with all of the cables and wires routed, check everything from lock to lock. See if the clutch cable binds, see if the throttle cables bind… then install the headlight assembly (no wires) and check again. Make adjustments as needed.

8. You will learn to hate your throttle cables. I took a way different approach than tassue on this one. I could not find a position where the cables would not bind, and I even tried routing them in the frame going through the hole on the throttle side (as the real fz6-n does). My solution was to route the cables through the hole by the meter then OVER the handlebars. To make it not bind at all, I rotated the throttle assembly 90 degrees forward. The ignition kill will be facing forward and the starter button will be looking at the sky. It works really well and I have had no problems with functionality or anything. It doesn’t even really look that odd, either. This is temporary for me until I can figure out how to route the throttle cables through the throttle side of the bike.

9. Now that everything is to your liking and nothing binds, time to hook everything up, cram the wires (zip ties) behind the headlight and bolt it on. One last thing… the blinker relay… remember that wire on the inside, that was separated from the wire harness connector? Well, as you put the brackets, and battery box and coils and everything back together… connect the relay and use the little plastic mount on top of the battery box, to attach the relay to. Perfect fit! Now tighten everything down, connect the fuel and tank, and get your keys! Mine started right up and hopefully yours will too!
Pics Here
Pics Here

Now go enjoy the thing.

Oh wait… hahahaa… I forgot. Put some mirrors on and relocate the horn to where ever you like. Remove the center stand if you wish…. And then you are done!


Wow that was long and complicated. I can’t believe I just typed all the out… and I really don’t want to scare anyone from doing this either… well… maybe, then I can have the only blue FZ6-N in existence.

tassue? Anything you want to add? Any comments on how crazy and complicated I am….?

I am sure I will be adding/changing/modifying this. I realized I left out a few pics too.... EDITS to come....

2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...

Last edited by superman89; 10-17-2005 at 10:00 PM.
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post #3 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-29-2005, 11:32 AM
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want to go naked

i posted on a previous thread before i found this one and thanks for this. i can't believe you did all the homework either, thanks again. can you tell me where you bought the parts?
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post #4 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-11-2005, 04:00 PM
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I wanna be naked too

I too would like to know what dealer/website you used to get the necessary parts for this mod.

Thanks for doing all the research and the great "how-to".


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"Yea, though I ride through the valley of the shadow of the Harley, I will fear no R.U.B.: For my FZ6 art with me; thy power, thy speed and thy handling they comfort me." -- Metrics 23:4
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post #5 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-11-2005, 04:10 PM
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Wheres the finished pic? I've the glam shots before. I wanna see a real one
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post #6 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-11-2005, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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I dealt with:

Paul Couper, Director
MotoXtreme Motorcycles, New Zealand
Ph 09 298 4900
Fax 09 298 4934
[email protected]

Really easy to deal with and very helpful. Be sure if you use him that you tell him exactly what parts you need (parts list from posts above) and all that. You'll have to call him to give your payment info, so get a cheap calling card. Otherwise... just go to the Yamaha Motor Company sites for countries that offer the naked version, use the locate dealer link(s), and send a few emails out with exactly what parts you need until you find one that bites. Hopefully that won't be too bad. Also - you can save a few bucks by using the exchange rate as your friend. You guys really planning on doing this???? If so - good luck and you'll love it when you're through.


Oh, and I'll post a pic or two this weekend.

2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...

Last edited by superman89; 11-11-2005 at 04:17 PM.
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post #7 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-12-2005, 12:05 AM
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Thanks for the contact info... and yes, I plan on doing this mod as soon as I can.

I have another follow-up question as well...

In your how-to, you mention how the throttle cables bind unless you rotate the throttle assembly 90 degrees... would you suggest that I also order the other "european" throttle cables?, or were you able to figure out how to re-route the cables so that the stock ones work properly without the 90 degree rotation?


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post #8 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-12-2005, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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yeah - I couldn't get any info from over there. The guy I delt with (paul) said they are the same cables... I tried a few different routings, but nothing really worked, and I don't mind the rotated throttle, plus no one has even noticed it (see below..). Man that was alot of commas! Ummm.. That was the one thing that I really never found a good solution for. Tassue said that he just ziptied the mess out of them and they don't bind, but I could not reporduce it and never got to see a picture. Hope that helps... and here's a pic of my bike as of this morning.
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2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...
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post #9 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 06:28 AM
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Sorry superman
what is the black strip on the chassis?
tnks
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post #10 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 07:25 AM
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damn i didnt notice it...(black stripe) good eye
i will get pics of the way a routed my cables....let me know if your in a
rush.....hey superman89 - what color do you have in your 5watt light
still...have you gotten pulled over


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fz1 front fender
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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 09:34 AM
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How much does it cost to do the N conversion? Ive never liked the FZ6 because of the half fairing, but I really like the naked version.
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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girino
Sorry superman
what is the black strip on the chassis?
tnks
I planned on blacking out the frame (paiting it black), but then decided to paint a "design" instead. If it looked bad, I'd paint over it, but I like the way it looks.

As for the lights, I've got a 9 LED blue cluster abnd surprisingly have not been pulled over yet... I'm sure it will happen soon enough tho....

Cost for the parts was about $680. Cost after all the little things, zip ties, electrical tape, screws, tools, etc was about $700-ish. If yuou can sell your fairing, you can offset the cost just a little bit. Hope that helps.

2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...
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hes right it cost about 650-700 +mirrors 45.00
i got 320 for my old fairing so it doesnt hurt to bad!!!
come join us.........


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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 02:16 PM
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cops are to impressed with the bike to notice the blue light
"is it a 5watt led"


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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tassue
cops are to impressed with the bike to notice the blue light
"is it a 5watt led"
I actually just tapped off of the turn signals, so they are whatever wattage the turn sigs are - don't know if it is 5 or not? I used to have pod lights in the corners when I had the fairing on there, so if you want to do some investigating, they are the ones that would go in the R6 pod lights. I'll post a pic sometime of what the bulb looks like, I should have one lying around on a shelf somewhere.

So... if you didn't notice the black stripe... did you notice the black rear subframe? Oh and have you done a sprocket conversion? If not are you going to? I've been riding alot of litre class bikes lately and always come back to my bike (might have felt differently if still faired *grin), but kind of want a little more torque...

+1 Girino, come join us.

2004 Yamaha FZ6; converted to FZ6-Naked
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul

| Arrow Exhaust, with Cat Elim | Dyno'd PCIII | R6 Forks, professionally tuned | R1 Front Brakes | Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines | Braking Wave Rotors | HH Galfer Pads | FS6 Frame Sliders | Dunlop D208's | Scorpio Alarm | Clear Lens LED Tail Light | Clear Lens Turn Signals | Homemade CF FE | Plate mount mini LED rear turn sigs | Custom Frame Paint | Custom Carbon Engine Guards | Synthetic Fluids | is there anything else i can do??...
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