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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Talking New (Diferent) Headlight MOD.

Ok to start I'll say this:
Ill get a digicam this week and post some.

I have a Electronics Major, so I know what im doing. I took a look at the headlight wiring schematics and found out that you guys are doing it the hard way. I did al the math and this MOD is safe and doable. If any problem, it probably was that you left the bike with the high beams on and the bike off and it sucked your batery dry . Remember to always keep the revs higher than 5000 to maintain a good charge.

Ok now I start. You need to get:
2 x H4 bulbs 60/55wt (make em good ones)
2 x 90 degrees conectors (like the ones in the bulb connectors)
1 x 16 gauge wire (2 feet will do)
1 x dremel tool
1 x soldering iron with solder
1 x electric tape
1 x case of beer.
Now you might be sayin why 2 H4's when we already have one. Well: if you buy a cheap OEM replacemet your original H4 will shine better, if ou buy a quality H4 your original one will dwindle in comparizon and no matter what it'll look stupid. Dont be cheap buy two good ones.

Ive read the old posts and was confounded by the slopiness. This way is better. You'll end up with no visible clues (beside the obvious nonwinkines of your bike . BTW left and right always means left and right when facing the bike from the front.

1.Start by disconecting both sides bulb conectors. Remove the insulating rubber and then remove the bulbs. If you feel unconfortable working on crampt spaces remove everything else that bothers you.

2. With the dremel chip away the metal edge from one of the new H4's till it's as small as the original H7. I suggest that you chip and measure in the hole to prevent chiping too much and loosing the bulb inside the casing. I suggest that you try to leave some sharp edges (tips) so it could be used to hold the bulb in the casing (so it doesnt rotate). Now make sure that you work the bulb in the cassing the same way (filament position) that the left one is in. BTW by now you can put the new left bulb in, lock it, and put the insulation rubber on, nothing else is needed to be done on that side, only on its conector. Always make sure not to touch the glass! Have in hand some type of lint free cloth to protect the bulb when dreming and to clean it when finished. Once the dremming is done put the bulb in, lock it (even though the top part of the spring doesnt touch, the insulation is enough to hold it in place), and put the insulation rubber on.

3. Cut 2 pieces of wire (same length). Make sure that they are long enought to be routed through the inside of the front fairing from one bulb to the other to be out of sight, some slack will be nice for future comfort. Strip both ends of both wires. To one end of each wire crimp on or solder the 90 degrees connector. Open the left bulb connector and carefully remove the connector with the black/green wire (use thin nosed pliers). Take one of the new wires and solder the free end to the black/green connector (make sure you do a nice out of the way solder). Put the connector back in its place. Put the 90 degrees conector of the other wire in the empty space (in my case I had to stretch a bit the metal 90* conector so it'll fit the bulb, i also had to fill after it with electric tape to make sure it stayed in place when connected). Close the conector and lightly wrap it in electrical tape. Route the two dangling wires trought the fairing to the other side. Put the left connector on its place and you are done with this side. It should be like this: left=black=ground, top=new=high beam, right=black/green with soldered new wire=low beam.

4. Repeat the procedure with the right side wires with these exeptions. Instead of black/green now it's black and yellow. The free end wire is soldered to the black/yellow and instead of putting it back in it's original place it goes to the empty top space. The 90* end wire goes to the now free (empty) right. Close it and lightly tape it up. It should end like this: left=black=ground, top=black/yellow with soldered new wire=high beam, right=new=low beam.

5. Drink case of beer.

Youre done!!! Now low beam = both sides on at 55wt and high beam = all filaments on, on both sides = 230wt. The bike will handle it without a problem. Now dont go using the high beams all the time! Its only for vewy vewy dark places .

You will probably will have to realing the pods so they are focused right, but that's a new thread! =0) Hopefully ill post some pics soon!
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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAZtER
Ok to start I'll say this:
Ill get a digicam this week and post some.


Youre done!!! Now low beam = both sides on at 55wt and high beam = all filaments on, on both sides = 230wt. The bike will handle it without a problem. Now dont go using the high beams all the time! Its only for vewy vewy dark places .

But what if I am traveling on some dark back road and the temp is in the low 50s? Your solution does not leave much for running heated gear (vest and grips).

A better solution is to just install a "plug-n-play" HID replacement for the high beam side. You get more light and draw less current. And if you really got money to burn, install a HID unit for each side.

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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Talking Never fails!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rennsport
But what if I am traveling on some dark back road and the temp is in the low 50s? Your solution does not leave much for running heated gear (vest and grips).

A better solution is to just install a "plug-n-play" HID replacement for the high beam side. You get more light and draw less current. And if you really got money to burn, install a HID unit for each side.
Ok im in a small caribean island. Cant care less for heated gear. My solution is only for getting rid of the stupid, ridiculus, winki headlight look! Like most people i dont have insanely vast amounts of money to blow of in HID systems which will still leave me with the original problem (wink!) Besides HID brings its own problems: one setting blinds all!

Look I tried the low beam setting in a very very dark desolate road here in PR. It was more than suficient, i could see from 7 to 10 cars (imaginary ) ahead. With the high beam it was twice that! And believe me the road was DARK. You could see only the turn signal a mile away.

About the current consumption, the high beams are usable as long as you are riding. Don't pull up to a corner and leave em on while you talk with someone!
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAZtER
Ok im in a small caribean island. Cant care less for heated gear.
Well not everyone lives in such a climate, and that is a Good Thing.©

Quote:
My solution is only for getting rid of the stupid, ridiculus, winki headlight look! Like most people i dont have insanely vast amounts of money to blow of in HID systems which will still leave me with the original problem (wink!) Besides HID brings its own problems: one setting blinds all!

One HID conversion kit is $229 U.S, not an insane amount... If I wer not planning a long trip in May, I would do a HID mod. But as it is, I will be looking at a chain/sprocket changeout and possibly a front tire change in May.

As for blinding people, this would be no different than the cars that have factory installed HIDS. And as a high beam only mod, my chances of blinding somone on a back country road are nil...

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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Talking Wink!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rennsport
One HID conversion kit is $229 U.S, not an insane amount... If I wer not planning a long trip in May, I would do a HID mod. But as it is, I will be looking at a chain/sprocket changeout and possibly a front tire change in May.
You said it yourself. It's better to invest $230 on a chain and sproket change than on a BULB!

Look the MOD is for getting RID OF THE WINK! not to be able to see ANTz during the NIGHT.
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAZtER
You said it yourself. It's better to invest $230 on a chain and sproket change than on a BULB!
No it is not better, the trip is just not that far away. I may still do the HID mod and do the chain/sprocket changeout.

Look the MOD is for getting RID OF THE WINK! not to be able to see ANTz during the NIGHT. [/QUOTE]

The wink is only a cosmetic thing. I do not find it offensive. I do want to see ants at night!

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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Angry

Ok, thats it......im ignoring you.
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
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Ok, thats it......im ignoring you.
Thats fine. My point is if you really want to see at night, stop with the micky mouse mods and hacking up up of the bike's wiring. Get a real solution and really see at night.

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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 03:01 PM
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pics now!

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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 03:25 PM
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I do not want both lights to be high beams. I think there was a good reason to have one low and one high, just no good reason to have only one low...

-J

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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 04:08 PM
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FazeX
I do not want both lights to be high beams. I think there was a good reason to have one low and one high, just no good reason to have only one low...

-J
That is true but, the FZ6 is not the first bike to have dual lights with oly one lit for low beam use. I think back in the early 90s, Honda maybe had this setup with tow round headlights. Did everyone make a "stink" about it then? Just curious...

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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 05:20 PM
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Not to throw fuel on the fire, but I'd have to say that if you look at the wiring diagram for a while, it's clear that in the original design they meant for the dimmer switch to turn off one side low filament and energize that same side high filament when you go to brights. While, the bike may tolerate just about any mod around the headlights, it's not how the switch, relay, and wiring are designed. I have no idea why they don't wire up the other side low here in the US - I'm sure some lawyers were involved.

Here's another question. Are the bulbs even meant to have both filaments on simultaneously? Are you possibly reducing the lifecycle of those parts?

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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 05:48 PM
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I run dual H4's without a problem. I went back through the harness though, instead of running one wire to the other. Looks more professional and when I take it into the dealer, they can't tell I modded it.


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