ZZR600 Exhaust

[ZZRrocket]

Rode today with the insert installed in my Yoshimura RS3 for the first time. It was definetly quieter. I actually think it sounds better, smoother. I noticed the throttle response was improved over running it with a wide open baffle. Also noticed on decel it wasn't poping anymore. It was nearly all gone after installing the European Spec ECU, but now it's all gone.

[MotoRider]

Originally Posted by ZZRrocket

Rode today with the insert installed in my Yoshimura RS3 for the first time. It was definetly quieter. I actually think it sounds better, smoother. I noticed the throttle response was improved over running it with a wide open baffle. Also noticed on decel it wasn't poping anymore. It was nearly all gone after installing the European Spec ECU, but now it's all gone.

Jay, your getting more back pressure so its more than likely giving you better low rpm response. Top end, is where the Open Baffle will show its advantage as the bike will be able to move that extra air and make better power.

European Spec ECU, as you know I have this too. The difference to me is the bike runs hotter. This will cause better combustion less unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust pipe. I am thinking the ECU was setup this way to help pass more strict Euro emissions laws at that time. I will admit my bike ran better with the install but new plugs and a carb sync was performed at that time so it leaves a little doubt about the ECU.

I am not liking the hotter running bike and will more than likely switch back come summer.

Whats your thoughts?

[Oblivion]

Originally Posted by MotoRider

Jay, your getting more back pressure so its more than likely giving you better low rpm response. Top end, is where the Open Baffle will show its advantage as the bike will be able to move that extra air and make better power.

European Spec ECU, as you know I have this too. The difference to me is the bike runs hotter. This will cause better combustion less unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust pipe. I am thinking the ECU was setup this way to help pass more strict Euro emissions laws at that time. I will admit my bike ran better with the install but new plugs and a carb sync was performed at that time so it leaves a little doubt about the ECU.

I am not liking the hotter running bike and will more than likely switch back come summer.

Whats your thoughts?

If its burning fuel more efficiently I would leave it the way it is. The bike runs hot at a stand still anyway. Its nothing to worry about because our bikes are liquid cooled.

Air cooled bikes on the other hand i would not want to make any mods that would make them run hotter unless your racing the bike and you are not in stop and go traffic.

[MotoRider]

Originally Posted by Oblivion

If its burning fuel more efficiently I would leave it the way it is. The bike runs hot at a stand still anyway. Its nothing to worry about because our bikes are liquid cooled.

Air cooled bikes on the other hand i would not want to make any mods that would make them run hotter unless your racing the bike and you are not in stop and go traffic.

No Worries..Just a comfort thing...

My bike would run in the 160ish range with the stock ECU. The Euro ECU 180ish range. On a hot summer day that 20 degrees makes a difference in slow moving traffic.

[Oblivion]

But...... lol, I personally see no reason to make such a modification on my bike because of how well it performs as it is. I'm not even sure if i want to change the ignition timing, another popular mod.

I believe people make these adjustments and gain improvements say in the low end... and lose something in the high end. Or it could be completely all made up in ones mind lol.

Here is my take on it, I believe putting standard mods aside, aftermarket air filters,exhaust, carb shims<if needed>. Your money would be better served performing general maintenance on the bike.

Plugs, carb sync, clean air filter, valve adjustment etc. and if you you feel are are missing some power in the low end or top end a gear ratio change would be a more effective way of achieving how you would prefer your bike to perform at low to high speeds.

At the moment my bike pulls so hard until it tops out i really cant imagine a improvement over the performance that I am getting out of it right now. I raced a mustang the other day and my front wheel was leaving the ground in 3rd gear lol. +4 rear ftw.

All about preference.

[Oblivion]

Originally Posted by MotoRider

No Worries..Just a comfort thing...

My bike would run in the 160ish range with the stock ECU. The Euro ECU 180ish range. On a hot summer day that 20 degrees makes a difference in slow moving traffic.

You want your bike running around 180f anyway. Thats when the power really gets tapped into. 160 is too cold for our bikes. My bike hits 220f on hot days sitting at stop lights. of course the fan has kicked in by that point.

in a hot climate totally normal.

[rayzzr]

Originally Posted by Oblivion

But...... lol, I personally see no reason to make such a modification on my bike because of how well it performs as it is. I'm not even sure if i want to change the ignition timing, another popular mod.

I believe people make these adjustments and gain improvements say in the low end... and lose something in the high end. Or it could be completely all made up in ones mind lol.

Here is my take on it, I believe putting standard mods aside, aftermarket air filters,exhaust, carb shims<if needed>. Your money would be better served performing general maintenance on the bike.

Plugs, carb sync, clean air filter, valve adjustment etc. and if you you feel are are missing some power in the low end or top end a gear ratio change would be a more effective way of achieving how you would prefer your bike to perform at low to high speeds.

At the moment my bike pulls so hard until it tops out i really cant imagine a improvement over the performance that I am getting out of it right now. I raced a mustang the other day and my front wheel was leaving the ground in 3rd gear lol. +4 rear ftw.

All about preference.

Valid point on the maintenance, but by going up teeth on the rear you are sacrificing gas mileage and range - two very important things if you tour or ride long distance.

Euro ECU results in better throttle response, reduced engine braking, and slightly improved gas mileage.

Ignition advancer sharpens throttle response.

Aftermarket air filter and exhaust open the engine up on both ends, and rejetting (if done properly) can allow for more power with same or better fuel economy.

I have done all of these to my bike, and I keep the carbs in sync, the valves in spec, and the service up to date. I recently took my ZZR on a 5,000 mile, 21 day, 9 state mid-west trip, and I averaged around 45mpg, even though we were running well over 80 mph in the remote areas of the country. That was with full bags on the bike. With just me and the bike, riding conservatively, I can top 50 mpg.

Aside from the cost of gas, range is important when riding out West. Stations can be few and far between. It can mean the difference between riding and walking.

By going up that many teeth, you sacrifice top end for acceleration in most cases. At highway speeds I'd imagine that the engine is screaming.

[Oblivion]

Ya for sure, I still catch myself trying to shift into 6th when I'm already in it from time to time :-P. I will be buying another bike purely for sport touring of course I'll never sell the 600 and I don't regret going +4 on the Rear in any way.

*edit*This setup is also perfect for track days where all you have is twists and turns that top end doesn't come into play often depending on the track of course. We have a group of us that rent out an entire track.

Jennings track earth map https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=...27122&t=h&om=1

[ZZRrocket]

Those clips are so old and there gone. I don't have them anymore.