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Old 03-31-2005, 09:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
badboys21
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Question Problem with chain on 520 conversion..help...

I just did a 520 conversion 2 weeks ago, I live in Ohio so the weather just finally broke this past week. I have taken my 6 out 2 times this past week and I have noticed that my chain slaps really really bad when I am riding. The top of the chain tracks fine, but the bottom half of the chain slaps up and down pretty bad. I put my bike on my rear stand and measured the chain, i have 1.2 inches of slack, which is in spec. BUT, when i roll the wheel forward a few inches the chain tightens to 1/2 inch, i roll the wheel forward more and it slacks back to spec, then i roll it forward and it goes back to 1/2 inch. There must be some tight spots on the chain, my question is this, Is the chain ruined and I need a new one? Or is there a way to loosen the chains tight spots? The chain is brand new, its an RK Chain XSO520 gold. Any help would be appreciated please....
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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id say just tighten the chain. Mine was the same way when I got my new chain.
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i should have said this also, I tighten it to 1/2 inch slack, still slaps bad, loosen it to 1.2 inch slack, does the same thing, I am baffled. Actually I am pissed cause I can not figure this out. Tight or loose, same slapping...aarrrggggg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I suspect a couple things. First, have you made sure that your rear wheel is in alignment? If not, your sprocket could be out of line with your front sprocket causing your chain to bind. Also, the chain may be defective. Pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket, on the point that is furthest away from the front sprocket. If it pulls away from the sprocket more than a couple tenths of an inch, then your chain could be bad. Are you measuring your slack at the midpoint between the front and rear sprockets, on the bottom travel of the chain, from however far down the chain hangs to it's upward most point when you push up on it? That should be roughly and inch or so. I would adjust the alignment, adjust the tensioners, and try it from there. You will also probably want to lube the chain and make sure all the rollers are fine. Once you have put about 20 miles or so on the chain, make sure you readjust the tension.
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Problem with chain on 520 conversion..help...

I just did a 520 conversion 2 weeks ago, I live in Ohio so the weather just finally broke this past week. I have taken my 6 out 2 times this past week and I have noticed that my chain slaps really really bad when I am riding. The top of the chain tracks fine, but the bottom half of the chain slaps up and down pretty bad. I put my bike on my rear stand and measured the chain, i have 1.2 inches of slack, which is in spec. BUT, when i roll the wheel forward a few inches the chain tightens to 1/2 inch, i roll the wheel forward more and it slacks back to spec, then i roll it forward and it goes back to 1/2 inch. There must be some tight spots on the chain, my question is this, Is the chain ruined and I need a new one? Or is there a way to loosen the chains tight spots? The chain is brand new, its an RK Chain XSO520 gold. Any help would be appreciated please....
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The sprocket may be out of round. Which sprocket set did you purchase?
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I bought the Vortex front and rear sprocket. I bought a set, the chain and sprockets. Its wierd, I counted on both sides and the marks in the swingarm are the same distance. when i put it on the rear stand and put it in gear and watch the tracking of the chain, there is no wobble or any unusal tracking issues I can see, I look at the chain from behind the bike, but when I look at the bike from the side watching the chain go around, i see the chain shake up and down in certain spots, if i give the bike gas, the chain shakes in spots faster obviously.
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Perhaps the installation was faulty and the master link is binding. Does the tight spot coincide with the master link? Rivot or clip master link?
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Old 03-31-2005, 12:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That sounds really wierd to me. A new chain shouldn't have tight spots that early.

I've never heard of anyone loosening the tight spots.

The only thing i can think of is, are you sure that your rear wheel is aligned right, I wonder if that would effect the chain.
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Old 03-31-2005, 12:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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alignment was first thing I though of. measurement of chain is a tightest spot. maybe warped sprocket? you changed both sprockest and chain right? i would recheck/remounty everything.
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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thank you all for giving me suggestions. The chain was full of this white waxy looking sh&^%t, very hard to get off your hands and anything esle you get it on!!!...I just spoke with the place I bought the kit from and he said they had a bad batch of rear sprockets from Vortex and if my sprocket has the same part number as the bad batch, he will send it out tomorrow. Would a bad sprocket cause that binding issue?...
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thank you all for giving me suggestions. The chain was full of this white waxy looking sh&^%t, very hard to get off your hands and anything esle you get it on!!!...I just spoke with the place I bought the kit from and he said they had a bad batch of rear sprockets from Vortex and if my sprocket has the same part number as the bad batch, he will send it out tomorrow. Would a bad sprocket cause that binding issue?...
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Old 03-31-2005, 02:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badboys21
Would a bad sprocket cause that binding issue?...
yep, especially if it is out of round and more of an oval shape or if all the grooves between the teeth are not all the same. or if it is warped like a rotor gets warped
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Old 03-31-2005, 02:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, if the sprocket is bad, yes. That kind of behaviour is only seen on old chains, and there is no way to fix the tight spots.
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Old 03-31-2005, 02:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Never trust the markings on the swingarm, there's no room for accuracy. Always use the string method or measure to the center of the axle from the swingarm pivot point.
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