If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above.
You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Thanks for the advice Quicklimegirl. My inseam is 30" so I was mainly looking for bikes that had a seat height in the 30"-31" range.
I did consider the 250 at first but most all the advice I got is that I would out grow it pretty quickly and that it would be tacked out at highway speeds.
I LOVED being a passenger... it was always ME begging to take the Blackbird out... so I know I will LOVE being a pilot even more
Thank you again!
You're 5'2" with a 30" inseam? Do your legs ever stop?!?
WRT the lowering vs shaving issue - yes, you should lower the seat by preference. Lowering the bike inevitably screws up the suspension. Absolute best case is that the rate has to be increased compared to the same rider at standard height. But there's also issues with clearance (vertical and cornering) and CG. Just not the best approach *if* you don't need to go there, and costly to do right.
You might also consider more of a boot sole/heel if the bike is marginal. How low you need the seat tends to change as you get more experienced and comfortable handling the bike. Oh, and when checking out bikes you'll find that the width of the seat makes a big difference in getting your feet down, too.
Posts: 85
Casino Cash: $4349
Sportbike: 1987 Kawasaki EX 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by asj2003
The one down side: I have heard I'm supposed to keep it to 4,000RPM or under to break it in, which I find very difficult to do because I end up shifting every 6-8 miles and by 30MPH I'm already in 6th. As a beginner, it is very challenging to be focusing on shifting so closely along with everything going on around me and turn signals, etc...
Though it may be what is recommended, opening it up a little bit won't hurt anything. Just don't go racing it, and more importantly don't hold it at the same rpm for an extended period of time. Part of breaking in an engine is making sure it wears in properly so that it can handles different levels of heat from different rpms (heat will usually in crease with rpm) and therefore different tolerances in the moving parts due to expansion and contraction as metal heats up.
It is definitely better to hit 6,000 rpm for a few seconds than hold it at 4,000 all day long. Holding it at 4,000 for 30 minutes I would definitely not recommend. I'm sure some others on this site will back me up on this, or maybe correct me if they think I'm wrong.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloppyJoseph
...the only way I turn down a skank is face down......
Whats the difference between you and a Mallard with a cold? One's a sick duck and I can't remember the rest of the joke but your mother's a whore. -Sean Connerey, SNL
Last edited by SuperTodd : 10-05-2009 at 02:41 AM.
I have never broken in my bike the way the manufacturer states. Sometimes it can do more harm than good. There is actually a good link on here http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The site is either slow or down, but here is the jist of it
Quote:
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
__________________ My Site | Pics | My rider resume 98 Z/28 hardtop- bolt ons, exhaust & suspension
07 Legacy 2.5i- daily driver
08 Kawasaki ZZR600 +4 Ignition Advancer, Leo Vince exhaust, more to come
I'll be looking for some fellow Phoenician's to ride with once I get my bike too!
I lived in Sierra Vista form 04 to 07 and spent a lot of time on South West Rides
I met a great bunch of folks on there who are dedicated riders, no matter what the weather is. This is one of our not so warm rides we did in Jan a few years back. There are quite a few laides who are on the site as well.
Birdman, RusseL, SheMonster, Dean, Rix-Ster, Darktwon79, GilaMonster are just a few of the folks on there the I have ridden with and are great people.
Tell em Kawagirl sent ya.
"The man who follows the crowd will usually go no further then the crowd. The man who walks alone is likely to find himself in places no one has ever been" Alen Ashley-Pitt
Posts: 116
Casino Cash: $2410
Sportbike: 09 Pearl White FZ6R
I started out on the new 250 and loved it. I had it lowered 2 inches only in the back. Unless you are a seasoned professional rider you will not feel the handling difference. They keep their value also, if you buy used. Me and my hubby both bought used 08 250's and sold them both for 100.00 less than we paid after putting a couple thousand miles on them. Even now I love to get on one and go through the twisties because they are so nimble. As for interstate, plenty fast enough you just have to know how to work the gears. This bike is not going to race past an ss but it will get you where you are going with a smile.
I currently have the white fz6r (sending mixed signals your way) I love this bike too but I am SO glad I started on a 250!
HMMM It might be difficult for me to give you the answers you want but I'll try to help
NOTHING OVER 650cc!!
Why? 750's & literBikes are stupid fast and things happen or going 10 times faster than small bikes. They are intimidating and it's difficult to learn when your entire focus is on survival.
Buy gear, good gear. Your still learning things happen better to be prepared to survive! Yes you know how to ride but do you know how to survive?Everyone out there is out to run over you or pull out in front of you. So if your fixated on operating your bike you have less attention for survival, SO buy something you are comfortable with.
OK let me tell you this from a Racer's prospective:
All of the Bikes out there now are good, heck they are great!
Take the average GSXR600 fact is 90% of the street Riders are not capable of using this bike to even a fraction of its ability on the track much less the street.
These new bikes have GREAT brakes fantastic suspension and a ton of power. In 1987 My Hubby's Hotrod GSXR750 (one of the fastest local Racebikes) made 97hp. Nowdays stock 600's make that!
The fact of the matter is there are no bad bikes out there they are all great and most have capabilities that will far eclipse yours for a long time so don't sweat the size(cc's) or whether or not it's an "R" model.
Let me stress this to any female rider! Women generally DON'T have the upper body strength that Men do so when a heavy Bike starts to tip we have a much harder time catching it. And on this note,, I was pretty intimidated by the size and weight of my Hayabusa at stock ride height but lowered at both ends now it feels as easy to handle as my GSXR750.
So having said that here is my best advice.
Go look at EVERYTHING!
Sit on everything
Ride what you can(Beg borrow ask other riders use your womanly guile)
Take them off the center/side stand and walk them around. Sit on them to see if your butt and back likes them.
ASK the seller (shops) if they will pay for and install lowering links if you buy the bike(many will)
Find a Rider who is experienced and knowledgeable to look at any bikes your interested in AND MAKE SURE he/she gives you input about the bike it's condition etc no opinions about what THEY THINK you need!
Now having said all of this how do you pick the "Right" Bike for you?
What looks "Good" to you?
What can you afford to buy/finance?
What can you afford to insure?
What feels comfortable, not cool, not intimidating, not too heavy just comfortable?
Good luck and remember we are all here with advice and info if you want to know about a specific make or model.
well hello kawagirl, haven't seen you on here in some time.
LOL I know, I have been going back and forth between Romania and Bulgaria these last few months and rarely pop in. 26 more days and I am HOME!!! (well back to Germany).
"The man who follows the crowd will usually go no further then the crowd. The man who walks alone is likely to find himself in places no one has ever been" Alen Ashley-Pitt
you're gonna get way in over your head with a 650. believe me, 250 is enough, get a year or so under your belt, you'll be very happy you did. it's better to ride safe than be dead.
all the best
liz
you're gonna get way in over your head with a 650. believe me, 250 is enough, get a year or so under your belt, you'll be very happy you did. it's better to ride safe than be dead.
all the best
liz
I wouldn't go that far. Some of the 650 twins are pretty tame and manageable for a beginner.
__________________ My Site | Pics | My rider resume 98 Z/28 hardtop- bolt ons, exhaust & suspension
07 Legacy 2.5i- daily driver
08 Kawasaki ZZR600 +4 Ignition Advancer, Leo Vince exhaust, more to come
Linear Mode
