Dragging pegs?

Ice-is-Scary · 09-18-2007, 06:47 PM

Well I just mounted up my new Pilot Power Race's (soft front) Medium (rear). I went through the 100 miles break in and went to test em out yesterday in the local canyon. I was scraping off pieces of the little knobby guy underneath the rear set foot-peg. It looks like if I go any farther over I'm gonna drag exhaust (my high mount exhaust comes in this week).

I planned on going to Miller Motorsports park after I mount up my exhaust this week for my first rally on the track but I'm concerned I can't lean it very hard considering where my hard parts start dragging, what can I do about that? I'm not even getting over to the edge of my rear (but my front had lots of little rolled up rubber strips on it after yesterdays canyon ride, all the way to the edge) before I start dragging hard parts.

Whats going on, I am not even cornering that hard and I'm leaned all the way off my bike and I'm still using a ton of my tire to make the turns. Am I on a bad bike for hard cornering or am I doing something wrong?

KawTipping · 09-19-2007, 02:11 PM

Your body position is rubbish. Pick up a book like "Total Control" by Lee Parks or either of the "Twist of the wrist" books by Kieth Code. They will push you in a good direction.

Parabellum · 09-19-2007, 02:28 PM

Yeah, you should really never need to drag hard parts if your form is good.

If you are dragging hard parts on the street...its time to take it to the track.

Ivan_markII · 09-19-2007, 03:58 PM

SV650 has pretty good cornering clearance but I still removed the footpeg feelers. I wouldn't worry about body positioning on the street anyway--sit up tall so you can see through the corner is important. I end up scraping occasionally because I don't lean off.

Once you get to the track then you might want to check your body positioning.

TegRacer243 · 09-19-2007, 04:02 PM

On the street slow down.

On the track get off the bike.

whitman · 09-19-2007, 11:33 PM

the other issue is that tire changes effect the suspension. This may be effecting it some but body position is the other get some photos of yourself.
my guess is you are not off as far as you think.......

TegRacer243 · 09-19-2007, 11:46 PM

it sounds like he's not getting off at all. Which is probably a good thing on the street.

Jody@Sportbike Solutions · 09-20-2007, 12:20 AM

You don't have to lean a SV over very far at all to drag stock footpeg feelers. I wouldn't be so quick to assume it's his form. If he was excessively leaning the bike as a result of bad form, his rear tire would be worn as well... and he says it isn't.

Ice - I'd set up your suspension first, if you haven't already. Ideally, I'd replace the rear shock with a unit w/ ride height adjustment (all Svs benefit from jacking the rear up), and at least set up the front with springs of the proper weight and emulators. But at a minimum... set the sag and see where you're at.

Ice-is-Scary · 09-20-2007, 07:21 PM

Thanks Jody, I followed a guy on a gsxr750 up the canyon today, I didn't realize how far I was leaning it. I was taking turns at normal pace and he was in front of me leaning off the bike and dragging body parts, from riding alone I suppose I never realized how far down I was getting. I never feel like I am pushing it that hard I ride at a pretty comfortable 70%ish pace just focusing on nailing the line and smooths shifts more so than "how far can I lean this piece of shit?". Anyway, today was a bit of a slap in the face (and an incredibly fun one, riding with people is SOOO much more fun and energetic), perhaps I should tone it down a little bit.

velocity bmg · 09-22-2007, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jody@Sportbike Solutions

You don't have to lean a SV over very far at all to drag stock footpeg feelers. I wouldn't be so quick to assume it's his form. If he was excessively leaning the bike as a result of bad form, his rear tire would be worn as well... and he says it isn't.

Ice - I'd set up your suspension first, if you haven't already. Ideally, I'd replace the rear shock with a unit w/ ride height adjustment (all Svs benefit from jacking the rear up), and at least set up the front with springs of the proper weight and emulators. But at a minimum... set the sag and see where you're at.

MY CBR 600 needs higher pegs, as I can near drag both feet and knee at the same time.

It needs rear sets...

Just way too low.

SD40T-2 · 09-24-2007, 02:00 AM

I'm not an expert by any means but I've experienced the same thing you have.

I took my 02' CBR600F4i out to MMP in July and it was my first track day. I had the bike leaned over a lot more than normal and my body posture was a lot more conservative than it is now. If you are riding fast enough in the canyons to be scraping your foot pegs and your tires are starting to "shag", I'd slow down a bit.

On the track I've played with my body posture and it's paramount in successful riding. On the road it's just not a good idea to be riding fast enough to need track posture.

It's also wise to note that most bikes have their OEM pegs mounted lower and it will result in them scraping when leaned over too much. My race bike has them mounted up about 1"-1-1/2" higher than stock. Another thing I learned the hard way is to put the 'ball' of your foot (just behind your big toe) on the peg. You will notice all racers put their foot in this position. It keeps from scraping your toe up. I've got an Alpinestars boot that needs R&R as a result of not having my foot back where it should be.

I would highly recommend that you contact the Utah Sportbike Association and look into taking their Advanced Rider Training (ART). The last one will be on the 30th of this month. It's worth the money and you learn some things for both the road and the track. Although there isn't one again this year, I'd also recommend looking into the Sport Touring ART. It's great for road riding. I highly recommend a membership with the USBA. A fair amount of the instructors are also racers and know what to help you with if you need it.

I'm going to be out at the track for the next APEX track day. Come out and say hi. I'm always willing to help a fellow rider where I can.

Feel free to PM me if you like,

'Dee'
WVC, UT

MOKE1K · 09-24-2007, 09:16 AM

Get a rear shock with ride height and possible set the front forks up with some enternals. Svs are gaint killers only thing is setting them up for the track takes some time to get it right.

SD40T-2 · 09-26-2007, 02:37 PM

Ice,

PM sent. Let me know if you got it. I've had PM's on this board get 'sucked' into the "ether" before and never go through....

SexyonMySV · 09-27-2007, 01:15 PM

+1 on Jody's comments

My peg feelers have been removed, the fork oil weight increased, shock adjusted, and I purchased a set of rearset brakes to move my SV stock rear sets up and back 1 1/2 inch. It provides a lot more clearance and gives it a bit of a more aggresive feel. You may need to adjust your gearshift peg to achieve a natural feel for shifting (as I did) after installing the brackets. On the SVRider's board and eBay SVSJason sells the rearset brackets for less then $50, which is a hell of a lot cheaper then aftermarket.

I have to admit that as I've been working on my form, I've had to lean a lot less then I did when I'd originally started. Of course I have a feeling that you're riding a bit more aggressively then I am.

Good Luck!

OreoGaborio · 09-28-2007, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivan_markII

I wouldn't worry about body positioning on the street anyway--sit up tall so you can see through the corner is important. I end up scraping occasionally because I don't lean off.

Once you get to the track then you might want to check your body positioning.

That line of thinking is counter-intuitive and, imo, straight up bad advice. There's a reason we teach proper body positioning at our events.

Line of site is nothing if you can't change your line in either direction. If you're sitting straight up & cornering hard not only are you putting the bike much closer to it's traction limit (closer to the edge of the tire AND putting more pressure on the bars, reducing the suspension's ability to do it's job) and reducing ground clearance but you're also eliminating almost all of your ability to tighten your line should the need arise.

I'd MUCH rather use proper body positioning, increase ground clearance, available traction and be able to chose widening out OR tightening up my line even if it means loosing 5-10 feet from my line of sight.

Use good form and make sure your suspension is sorted.