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So I went to my first track day on Monday and had an awesome time. Went to Buttonwillow which was being sponsored by Red Shift (same folks that once did DP Safety School). They did a great job of both organizing and instructing. I look forward to moving up to the B class in the future as their seems to be a huge disparity in skill level in the C class. There were at least 4-5 people on big beemers and a couple of cruisers, but they were at least easy to pass!
I didn't ever get a knee down, but did drag my pegs a few times. I think I could have gotten my knee down if I hung off more, but one step at a time. I also think I need to stiffen my suspension some more and drop the psi in my tires a bit for the next one.
If you drug pegs then you better hang-off or slow down. I crashed because of my peg digging into the asphalt. Remember the knee is your lean angle indicator, a very much needed tool.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Cobra
That's not the internet! THATS CSPAN MOTHERFUCKER!
If you drug pegs then you better hang-off or slow down. I crashed because of my peg digging into the asphalt. Remember the knee is your lean angle indicator, a very much needed tool.
well since I don't plan on slowing down I guess I better work hanging off a bit more.
Does hanging off far enough to get your knee down feel as awkward as it looks?
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If you were able to grind your pegs, I would think that you should be able to drag a knee. I had my knee down long before I started to touch pegs. I would def. try to hang off a bit more next time. One thing that really helped me was to NOT concentrate on getting the knee down, but just try to be faster. The times I actually consciously tried to get my knee on the ground, I couldn't do it. When I forgot about it and just concerned myself with getting through the turn quicker, then I would feel it touch. It's a wild feeling the first time!
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"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me."
So I went to my first track day on Monday and had an awesome time. Went to Buttonwillow which was being sponsored by Red Shift (same folks that once did DP Safety School). They did a great job of both organizing and instructing. I look forward to moving up to the B class in the future as their seems to be a huge disparity in skill level in the C class. There were at least 4-5 people on big beemers and a couple of cruisers, but they were at least easy to pass!
I didn't ever get a knee down, but did drag my pegs a few times. I think I could have gotten my knee down if I hung off more, but one step at a time. I also think I need to stiffen my suspension some more and drop the psi in my tires a bit for the next one.
I recommend a track day to EVERYONE!!!
i am by no means a fast guy <---disclaimer
did you take the feeler screws off your pegs??
and if you plan on using stock rear sets in the future
grind off a lil of your rear brake lever ( i actually came in from a practice session once to see i was also draggin my rear brake lever)
i took off about 3/8ths of a inch
f4i pegs are low im assuming thats what you were riding since thats in your profile
What worked for me.. others may have different experiences.
For the track beginner, I would suggest consciously trying to get yourself off the bike more so you can feel where the ground is as TTsixer pointed out. If you get your form worked out, the speed will come because you feel more "natural" on the bike. As you become faster, you will probably alter your form a few times but it's good to have a base to work with.
after getting some pics back I defintely agree that I need to hang of the bike more. I will be going to Streets of Willow in August...and that track has something like 22 turns so I will get plenty of practice then.
And yes, talk about an addition....I have been thinking about riding on the track for 2 weeks before my actual track day and haven't stopped since!
Special thanks to Carlos with Extreme Pictures (www.extpictures) for the shots.
after getting some pics back I defintely agree that I need to hang of the bike more. I will be going to Streets of Willow in August...and that track has something like 22 turns so I will get plenty of practice then.
And yes, talk about an addition....I have been thinking about riding on the track for 2 weeks before my actual track day and haven't stopped since!
Special thanks to Carlos with Extreme Pictures (www.extpictures) for the shots.
Great choice on SOW. August is very hot there. We stop running track days at SOW and WSIR in July and August, and pick up again in September. Check out our deal. Hope to see you there one day.
well since I don't plan on slowing down I guess I better work hanging off a bit more.
Does hanging off far enough to get your knee down feel as awkward as it looks?
Go to your local book store and buy the book "Smooth Riding The Pridmore Way". It's about $25 but it's well worth it. I bought it after I learned to drag knee but damn I wish I bought it before I was trying to hang off. It is very easy and fun to read and has many full color pictures. The hanging off section explains it way better than the twist books, it has some easy drills that you can do with the bike parked, and it explains in easy steps how to hang off. It also covers braking very well and some street riding tips. A very well-rounded book for the street or track rider.
And to answer your question, yes. The first time you try and hang off will feel very arkward because you'll be death-gripping the clip ons but you will eventually learn to relax your arms. And yes like somebody else pointed out, you won't drag knee if you're trying to drag knee, it will happen when you least expect it and damn it's the coolest feeling!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Cobra
That's not the internet! THATS CSPAN MOTHERFUCKER!
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dragging a knee is a bit difficult to do initally as the human psyche has a bit of difficult time forcing itself to drag body parts! But after the first time or two...whew! what a lot of fun.
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If you drug pegs then you better hang-off or slow down. I crashed because of my peg digging into the asphalt. Remember the knee is your lean angle indicator, a very much needed tool.
Aren't the stock pegs fold aways? I started racing in '96 and used stock pegs on my 1st 2 race bikes thru late in the 2004 season and never had a situation where they did more than just fold back, I don't think it's possible to dig one of those in during cornering, their designed not to dig in by folding up & back. A solid mount non-folding peg is a different story though and is very capable of digging in, especially if you use the stock location of the peg. My current bike has Woodcraft rear sets with solid pegs, I have yet to touch those to the ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsrchilly
i am by no means a fast guy <---disclaimer
did you take the feeler screws off your pegs??
and if you plan on using stock rear sets in the future
grind off a lil of your rear brake lever ( i actually came in from a practice session once to see i was also draggin my rear brake lever)
i took off about 3/8ths of a inch
f4i pegs are low im assuming thats what you were riding since thats in your profile
Not meaning to come across as a jerk, but the stock footpeg mounts are not called rear sets. Rear sets are mounts for the pegs that are in a new location that is usually rearward and upward from the stock location to provide better cornering clearance, it's not a big deal, just thought I would clarify since it's a commonly mis-used term.
I have some advice about the rear brake pedal (not lever ) grinding on the ground. The rear brake, in my opinion, should never be used by a beginner on the track for anything other than assisting in stopping when your front brakes may have failed or have reduced their ability to stop you adequately. In all the years I have raced I have never used the rear brake during racing, it's unneccesary and can only really be utilized by experienced racers effectively. Teaching braking using the rear brake to someone new to the track is dangerous, the ability of the rear brake to apply stopping force during track conditions is almost useless to a new track rider and will more often than not lead to them locking up the rear tire, hopping the rear tire, or reduced control and predictability of the bike. Personally I would raise the position of the brake pedal as needed only enough to avoid it grinding on the pavement when cornering, if it's not hitting then don't move it from its stock location, if it is hitting then raise it in small amounts till it no longer does. Leaving the pedal as produced will allow a larger surface area to press on with your foot if you ever need to apply the rear brake and will also put it in a slightly higher position that isn't so tempting to use during normal braking situations.
To improve braking ability use a racing brake line on the front brakes, I have used Goodridge stainless steel braided lines on all 3 of my race bikes and like them alot. Some aftermarket lines come in different inner diameters, the smaller the diameter the touchier your brakes will be. I would highly suggest a braided line with an inner diameter the same as the stock line, this will give good 'feel' & 'feedback' from your front brakes with a little less touchiness. The rear brake line should be left with the stock rubber line to allow it to expand and not be so touchy when applying the brake, a braided line for the rear is just asking for a problem.
Good luck with your new uncontrollable addiction! (If you haven't figured it out yet, your new focus in life is to get back out on the track )
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Aren't the stock pegs fold aways? I started racing in '96 and used stock pegs on my 1st 2 race bikes thru late in the 2004 season and never had a situation where they did more than just fold back, I don't think it's possible to dig one of those in during cornering, their designed not to dig in by folding up & back. A solid mount non-folding peg is a
My first track day (now with pics!)
