Gearing for the track bike

[96SNAKE/03RR]

Guys,

My RR is track only and I run stock gearing but I've been thinking about making a change for this coming track season. Because of my style, I usually have to run in peak rpm to get the most out of the RR. Basically, I am in 2nd gear most of the time (really using that over-rev )and then I'll go to 1st on bus stop corners. Most of the time, I'm on the ragged edge of the RPM scale and I know this isn't exactly safe but I very rarely get any slides on my BT002.

What I'm trying to do is change my gearing so I'm in 3rd gear entering smoothly between 7-8k rpm instead of a higher rpm that like I am now in lower gears. Same principle for 2nd gear in the bus stops. I've done the calculations for gear swaps and a 15/44 would keep my sprocket distance at 25.61(stock is 25.64) which would seem to be ideal for the more technical tracks I run but I do run some full courses where the short gearing could hurt a little. I get spolied running around on my TLR and I seriously miss that low end grunt. Someday, I will have a dedicated v-twin on the track but that's for another story.

Will this change help allow me to keep the lower Rpms and quicken my pace or will it slow me down because of being out of the bike's power peak and having to shift more? My bike only has 1800 miles but I'm going to go to a 520 swap if I do this conversion. I figure since I'm finally getting rid of the very heavy stock can too, a few extra lbs saved couldn't hurt.

Thanks!

Lance

[Jammin_Johnny]

What is your current final drive ratio?

??/??

[96SNAKE/03RR]

Stock is 0.3720(16/43). My planned change would be 0.3409(15/44).

[EA6BMECH]

I'm going up 2 teeth in the rear myself. I dropped the front already 1 to a 16. I don't need 5th gear so far on any track I've been on so far. Even indicating almost 160, there was not need ot 5th although I was about at the limiter. I hear ya on the corners, sometimes it's a wind it out or pop it up a gear. Fortunatly I have the torque to carry me up a gear.

002's for this year...... I saw the new Sport Tech, nice tire but better antiup some more $$ over the SC. I'll stick with the 002's

[96SNAKE/03RR]

Originally Posted by EA6BMECH

I'm going up 2 teeth in the rear myself. I dropped the front already 1 to a 16. I don't need 5th gear so far on any track I've been on so far. Even indicating almost 160, there was not need ot 5th although I was about at the limiter. I hear ya on the corners, sometimes it's a wind it out or pop it up a gear. Fortunatly I have the torque to carry me up a gear.

002's for this year...... I saw the new Sport Tech, nice tire but better antiup some more $$ over the SC. I'll stick with the 002's

Torque is fantastic and it just doesn't exist on the RR. Like you, I can live without the top speed as I only run two tracks where it could play a factor. Even then, I don't think I reach 6th gear.

I think that the winding it out in gear is really what I want to change in those corners. I'm finally going to be replacing my springs and rear shock for Ohlins stuff so I figure it's about time I got into the gearing too.

[Jammin_Johnny]

Originally Posted by 96SNAKE/03RR

Stock is 0.3720(16/43). My planned change would be 0.3409(15/44).

Quick Accel Kit of 15/43 should work well to keep it at the 7,000 RPM threshold.

[96SNAKE/03RR]

Originally Posted by Jammin_Johnny

Quick Accel Kit of 15/43 should work well to keep it at the 7,000 RPM threshold.

RATIO/DISTANCE
16/43(25.64)
15/44(25.61)
15/43(25.78)


The 15/44 has slightly smaller sprocker distance over the 15/43 so I thought that would work better for turn-in but you've made me re-think this. I realize that with an aftermarket shock and springs, I can now go with a longer sprocket distance of the 16/43 because I can now raise rear ride height that the stock shock does not have that adjustability. I will also raise the forks slightly(3mm) because of my better springs. Raising the rear affectively shortens wheelbase because of the pivot, right? These changes should better my turn-in while maintaining traction with the longer sprocket distance, provided I don't go too crazy on the rear ride height. I think the 15/43 might be the way to go.

Let me know if this makes sense.

[Jammin_Johnny]

Geometry......Geometry........Geometry........Gearing.......Gearing........Gearing


It is all in the set-up. Once complete...........It's up to the rider

[SV650R]

Lance,

I do not seem to understand the way you are figuring out your gear ratios... I think you are doing it backwards... If you have stock 16/43 (that means 43 divided by 16) = 2.69

I would recomend you going with a 15/45 = 3.0 The higher number means you are lowering you final reduction drive.

You can also buy a spare 16 tooth front sprocket and change your gearing within a few minutes. 16/45 = 2.81

All it takes is to remove your front sproket cover. Place a 2x4 through the rear wheel, and on top of the swing arm. Losen the front sprocket nut. Losen the rear wheel axle. Move the wheel foreward and take the chain off the rear sprocket. Now remove and replace the front sprocket.

To install back up each step at a time. Except to tighten your front sprocket you must place the 2x4 through the rear wheel, and on bottom of the swing arm. your rear tire will be aproximately 1/4 to 1/3 inch forward. Make sure to align the rear wheel properly. Aluminum sprockets get destroyed quickly if not properly aligned.

I found this site, I thought it is very usefull information....

Motorcycle Gear Ratio Calculator - Garvey Networks

You can get each gear reduction rates from your motorcycle year make and model service manual.

The distance between the sprockets is not important. Add or remove chain links to maintain the same wheel base. all you need is a few clip type master links and a few spare chain links!

Hope this helps, Luis

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

Holy 3 year old thread reserection Batman!

[EA6BMECH]

What Happen to 96Snake???