just got my hawk, question about brakes

gryhound89 · 11-08-2004, 05:48 PM

hey everyone, just picked up a 98 superhawk today, my second bike after a gs500. god lord this thing is powerful. the only thing I didn't like was the front brakes, they feel like crap. when braking hard, the lever has to be pulled almost all the way in, and it pulses. I'm guessing I need new rotors? is this a common problem with superhawks? what kind of rotors/pads/brake fluid/brake lines would you recommend? thanks all.

soggybottom · 11-09-2004, 08:25 AM

I just picked up an 02 with 2000 miles on it and brakes seemed very good although I only rode it home 30 miles to service it and check it out. the only complaint I have is the ergos, I may be a little long in the tooth for this bike. My main squeese is a ZRX1200 and a KLR650 is #2, got the hawk for the fun of it. Cannot compair it to my ZRX yet till I get used to it but I'm sure it handles better, probly down on power, the Z has about 130hp. Adjust the brake lever out, it may cure your problem or at least improve it.

AZZKIKER · 11-10-2004, 02:12 AM

I put braided stainless steel lines and EBC-HH brake pads and they do wonders. If you feel pulsation check the rotors to see if they are warped/bent. I recommend my combination to every superhawk owner.

mykrowsy · 12-13-2004, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZZKIKER

I put braided stainless steel lines and EBC-HH brake pads and they do wonders. If you feel pulsation check the rotors to see if they are warped/bent. I recommend my combination to every superhawk owner.

I concur

stoinkythepig · 12-14-2004, 08:08 AM

If the rotors are just bent and don't vary in thickness, you can bend them back with an adjustable wrench and a little pressure. Get a dial indicator (for run out) and micrometer (for thickness variation) to measure them. These tools will cost much less than a new set of rotors. Stop bending them when you get to <.003" of run out; they will feel much more solid at the lever and the pulsing will go away.

gryhound89 · 12-17-2004, 04:52 PM

thanks for the info, I've got goodridge steel lines, ebc pads waiting to be installed. I found some rotors on ebay, $50 including shipping, as soon as they get here I'll put everything on. once I get it working right, I'd like to try the 929/954 master cylinder swap. anybody out there got one on their hawk?

Demetri · 03-09-2005, 04:09 AM

while youre changing the discs and after you swap the lines, raise the calipers above the master and bleed them in that position. air will follow the path of least resistance. it worked super on mine.

letsrideinsc · 03-10-2005, 06:49 PM

Hey, I've got on order the SS brake lines, pads, because my brakes suck too! The bleeding procedure is what I'm afraid of. So how does that work with the air bubbles? I mean if you take the calipers off and raise them above the master cylinder, which end does the air come out of? Can you bleed them without the proper tools?

jim schmidt · 03-10-2005, 07:42 PM

You're describing brakes that were overheated. You'll enjoy the changes you're making but bleeding will get rid of the sponginess.

Repairing rotors sounds bold. I like it. This might be an option with stainless rotors but I wouldn't try it with iron.

Demetri · 03-14-2005, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by letsrideinsc

Hey, I've got on order the SS brake lines, pads, because my brakes suck too! The bleeding procedure is what I'm afraid of. So how does that work with the air bubbles? I mean if you take the calipers off and raise them above the master cylinder, which end does the air come out of? Can you bleed them without the proper tools?

you dont need any special tools. just some clear plastic tubing and a jar to catch the fluid.

raise the calipers, put the hose on the bleed nipple, loosen, pump the brake lever repeatedly till the fluid comes out without air, then tighten the nipple(i like that word!).

you may have to do it several times to get it just right.

dug · 03-14-2005, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gryhound89

thanks for the info, I've got goodridge steel lines, ebc pads waiting to be installed. I found some rotors on ebay, $50 including shipping, as soon as they get here I'll put everything on. once I get it working right, I'd like to try the 929/954 master cylinder swap. anybody out there got one on their hawk?

I started out by adding Galfer SS lines front, rear, and clutch. EBC HH pads went in, too. Much improved, but still lacking compared to my wife's 99 RR. Added the 929 M/C and again saw improvement. Get the 929's, it has a larger diameter piston than the 954's. I added Galfer wave rotors, and green pads, but got a shudder under heavy braking, so I'm not certain if I warped the rotors, or glazed the pads(my bed-in procedures suck). So I'm back to stock rotors and the HH pads.

dug · 03-14-2005, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by letsrideinsc

The bleeding procedure is what I'm afraid of. So how does that work with the air bubbles? I mean if you take the calipers off and raise them above the master cylinder, which end does the air come out of? Can you bleed them without the proper tools?

The best tool to get for brake bleeding is the SpeedBleeder screws. They replace your stock brake bleeder nipples. You crank 'em open about 1/4 turn after putting on a piece of plastic tubing and saw away at the brake lever(keeping an eye on the fluid level. They're pretty cheap, too, IIRC.

The next best tool is a MityVac vacuum pump. Then you just hook up the plastic hose to the nipple, crack it open, and pump the MityVac to pull the old fluid out(and bubbles)- again watching the fluid level to make sure you don't suck more air in through the master cylinder reservoir[which I've done numerous times -d'oh!]

If all that is too much, then grab a piece of tubing that fits snugly on the bleed nipple, and place the open end in a jar with a little clean brake fluid in it(a good measure against sucking up air the first squeeze or so). Squeeze the brake lever a bit and crack the bleeder open until you get flow. The lever will drop quickly to the bar as the old fluid goes out, but hold it until you tighten the bleeder up. Then release the lever and repeat the whole procedure until clean fluid comes out and no bubbles are in the flow. Remember to keep an eye on the reservoir so it doesn't get too empty - when you release the lever, it will suck some of the fluid out of the reservoir; if it gets too empty, it will suck air into the lines. It's also best to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill it before you start bleeding, that way you get new fluid in sooner and you wipe out the crud that is sitting in the reservoir. Other notes: make sure you're using compatible brake fluid, as there are different kinds(DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1, etc.); also guard against getting brake fluid on any surface, if you do, rinse it off immediately(I missed a couple spots that landed on my gauge faces and messed up the lens a bit).

The whole procedure really is quite painless, if you take your time, and take a few sensible precautions. I change the brake fluid in all my bikes at least once a year, or whenever the fluid gets too dark, especially the clutch!