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So let it be known that this the part that takes me the longest. Depending upon personal preference and, uh...anal retentiveness....this can take as little or as much time as you need. I am sure that didn't make any sense. I am very particular and cannot stand the air bubbles under the tape, so it takes me forever.
The only tools I use is a utility knife and the roll of tape. Oh, and before I forget...Honda polish which has been my "hero" to this point turns into my "enemy". Due to it's anti-static characteristics, tape will NOT stick to any surface that has been covered in it. To remedy this use a little window cleaner or 409, spray it onto the lights and wipe off. Ta-Da!!! The tape will now stick.
As far as directionals go,depending upon what you have you can either remove them or slap some tape over them. Since I have flushmounts for the fronts, I just throw some tape over them and it works just fine.
I used my headlight for the demo. The same process is used on the tail light. So, to start out, I cut a piece of tape long enough to cover my headlight. I stick it to the top of the light, slightly overlapping onto the plastic and pull to stretch it down and over to cover the light. The stretching helps to eliminate those retarded air bubbles. If one piece of tape is not wide enough, I just repeat with another piece, overlapping the first, until the entire light is covered and the tape slightly overlaps onto the plastic below the light.
This stretching of the tape can be frustrating to a perfectionist. But the more you practice the better you will get doing it. After I have the tape the way I want it (usually about an hour later. ) I use my utility knife to "score" the tape along the light. It's nice with the R6 because there is a gap that I can follow. Use a lot of caution because you can chip/scratch your paint if you go through the tape with the knife. I found out that if you just "score the tape" and hold tension on it, it will seperate cleanly on it's own. You will see what I mean in the pictures that follow.
Once I score and "tear" the tape, I use my finger to firmly press it into place on the "ledges" of the lights as I show in the second picture...please ignore the bugs on my bike...I was in a hurry to get these pictures done so I could get this info posted.
And that's pretty much it! Repeat for all headlights and the tail light. Wha-La! You, my friends, are now ready to rail that bike on the track with the rest of the "boys"!!!
Boy do my fingers look fat in these pictures!!!
Anyway, as I have said many times through out this, if you have any questions do not be afraid to ask them as I am sure there are at least 3 other people with the same question as you. Also, if you need more clarification on an area, I'd be happy to spell it out for you.
Most of all, the goal is to go out and have a totally kick-ass time!!! Oh, and I expect pictures posted from each and every one of you AFTER your track day!!! Good luck to all of ya, and let me know what else I can help you with....
That being said, get your behinds on those bikes and on the track!!!!
What back protector do you have?
~I don't have one right now...I know, bad me. Alpinestars has a nice one for a little over $100, BUT when I tried to order it, it was backordered so you might want to look into it really soon...all the racers scarfed them up.
On the note of a back protector I just wanted to clarify it's purpose. A lot of people that I talk to think it is to keep your back from bending the wrong way...NOT TRUE.
The purpose of the back protector is additional "sliding" protection. Think of it as a skateboard for your back. It buffers from impact and protects your spine from anything it may hit on the pavement.
Also know that regardless of the kind of protector you get, it's going to suck at first. Until your leather stretches to accomodate it, it will not be comfortable.
I'm lookin into the SIDI boots. Yay or Nay?
What boots do you have?
I am not sure. I have Alpinestars and really like them. I have heard good things about SIDI though
I have some now but I don't think I'm willing to try them on the track, they aren't all that great...just a $80 set that I got from Cycle Gear.
Are they comfortable and offer protection? If so, focus on something else.
What tires do you run?
I have Pirelli Diablos and I LOVE them. The scrubbed in really fast and stick well. The only downfall is that they don't have the track day tire profile. But I am ok with that considering I ride more street then track. The work well in the rain and haven't really had any issues. Best thing I can recommend is to NOT get another set of the Dunlop 208s...My bf has a set of Michelin Pilot Powers and he REALLY liked those. Only real problem is that the compound is really soft so they wore out quickly. They do have the track day profile but I don't think it's worth the money if you ride street alot. My Pirelli's have 4k miles on them, including two track days and are holding up well-I'll get to use them well into next season....well worth the $$$ in my opinion.
I can't wait for my leather suit to come in Should be here in a couple of weeks at the latest. Custom suit just for ME ME ME
You SUCK SUCK SUCK!!!
Just kidding, I'm just jealous. Leather tips...make sure you wear it as MUCH as possible to break it in BEFORE your track day. It is so stiff and uncomfortable you won't believe it. The trick I have found to work the best is to get it wet (ride in the rain! ) and let it dry a bit while you wear it. Some people say it's not the best for the leather, but I figure the sooner I am comfy in it, the better.
Also, look into some "under armour" type stuff. It's basicaly spandex to wear under your leather. Wal-mart carries some "Starter" brand stuff as does Shopko for less money than the under armour. The only problem I ran into is I can't find bottoms so my leather pants tend to stick to me. You can find under armour at Gander Mountain, but it is pricey.
I cannot stress this point enough though:
With your new gear wear it as much as possible...walk around in it, ride your bike in it, watch tv in it...heck, take a nap in it. The more you do it the better you will feel on your track day!!!!
Thanks for the tip about the chain. I just got my bike back and noticed the chain looks really crummy and I was just about to ask if it should be cleaned... your dirty chain puts mine to shame so I think I need to run out and get some chain cleaning stuff!!
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I got an email back from Team Promotion about the back protector in my suit. They said that wan't really a back protector...just a foam padding. They said I needed to removed the foam padding and apply a professional back protector.
Good news: I found someone that is going to let me borrow his back protector. Also, his roommate is going to let me borrow his race bodywork and tank! How awesome is that?? I feel a lot better now. So if by some WEIRD accident I do go down, I'll just buy him a new set of race bodywork instead of having to buy myself new street plastics.
Bad news: Still need boots and gloves that cover my wrists. The ones I have now are too short.
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Can I just say how cool you are and how I admire you without sounding too yanno!? LOL Anyway, wow thanks for the info and the pics. I will certainly keep all that info in mind for the regular maintenance that needs to be done with a bike. Maybe someday I'll get brave enough and experienced enough to try the "next level"!! LOL
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A picture is worth a thousand words: we may be older but we are HOT!
Engine Ice is, I beleive, a Propolyne Glycol antifreeze. Less toxic and easier to clean up than Ethylene Glycol - but still a mess. Many orginizations are banning this as well in the faster classes.
Water Wetter is a Redline product meant to be added to distilled water. It's a modifier that reduces water's surface tension, thus increasing the heat transfer coefficient between the metal (engine or radiator) and water. It's not slippery, toxic, or messy.
A tip - the Water Wetter instructions state that you need still use 10% Glycol antifreze. This is NOT true in bikes... This is for cars ONLY since Air Conditioners can blow enough cool air through the ventilation system to freeze the coolant in the heater core.
Taping 101
) I use my utility knife to "score" the tape along the light. It's nice with the R6 because there is a gap that I can follow. Use a lot of caution because you can chip/scratch your paint if you go through the tape with the knife. I found out that if you just "score the tape" and hold tension on it, it will seperate cleanly on it's own. You will see what I mean in the pictures that follow.
HOT!