If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above.
You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
The drain plug on the '03/'04 Yamaha R6 is directly underneath the rider. If you get down on your knees and look through the lower fairing (Pics are again from riders left) you will see it.
The first picture is of a general location and the second is a close up of it securely wired.
And finally the filler cap. Unfortunately we don't have this one wired on either bike, but I can at least show you what I am talking about. It is the cap for where you replace oil-to the rider's RIGHT.
Talking about oil makes me think of coolant...not sure why, but it does. Which reminds me that most tracks require the use of a water based coolant. We use "Engine Ice" but I believe there are other brands out there. Another is "Water Wetter" which I believe you need to mix with distilled water, but I am not sure.
Be sure to contact a friend or dealer if you have any questions regarding the coolant in your bike and how to change it. There are a ton of people who will be happy to answer any questions you have.
Up next in prep series is mirror removal and "zip" ties....
In series three we will go through the various items requiring zip ties, sometimes referred to as "cable ties". These things are so cool. They secure many things with little effort and are very inexpensive. I don't know how mankind got by without them! Anyway, make sure you have a pair of "nippers" so you can cut the excess off after you have tightened them.
Again the disclaimer applies: Neither SBN or myself are responsible should you cause damage to your bike. You need to verify these tips will work for your particular machine and use common sense when attempting any of the following tips. My 2004 Yamaha R6 was used to demonstrate so the actual locations/tools you need for your bike may be different.
Let's start out with the removal of the mirrors. Mirrors are not allowed onto the track and are very easy to remove. Just use caution when removing them to not bump your windscreen out of place. Start out with one side and when you have finished move to the second side.
In the case of the R6, you only need a ratchet and a 10mm socket to remove the nuts that hold the mirror in place. (Pic 1)
Using the socket (make sure it is switched to "off"! Otherwise remember the saying "righty tighty, lefty loosey"!), loosen the two nuts (it may be different on your bike) that hold the mirror in place. I have two red arrows pointing them out in picture 2. Once they are both loose, I then remove them. Be careful! Sometimes the nuts will drop out of the socket and land in really hard to reach areas! Just take your time and all will be well.
Once the nuts are off, just gently pull the mirror out of the fairing. Use care to not disturb the rubber bushings that are in the windscreen. I always put the nuts back onto the mirror for storage~it's easier to keep track of them that way!
Next, using two zip ties, secure your windscreen to your fairing. Now there are several different options for this task. Some companies make these really neat mirror plates that fit right into the opening and bolt on just like your mirror. They run from reasonable to pretty pricey. Also, zip ties come in a variety of colors so you have a ton of choices. I like to use the zip ties because 1) they are cheap and 2) we always have them on hand.
Anyway, pull the zip ties snug as shown in the picture. Using your nippers, snipp off the extra "flag" at the end.
See how easy that was? Now you can repeat the steps for your other mirror!!!
Now that you have your mirrors firmly in place there are a couple of other things that need to be done. First are the passenger foot pegs. They can be easily secured to the post they are attached to, as shown in picture 1.
The second is your kickstand. I am going to show you this now (because my bike happened to be on the rear stand at the time) but you may want to wait until you are at the track to do this. It makes life a lot easier if you wait until the very end to do this. For the R6, just run the zip tie between the shifter and the bike. Secure to a stable portion of the rear set as I have shown in picture two.
NOTE: The track I go to allows this. You need to verify that the track you are going to will allow your kickstand to be tied, some may require you to remove it. But since all newer bikes have the safety switch in them...you know, you fill your bike up with gas, everyone is looking at you, you start your bike, put it in gear and it dies because your kickstand is down and then you feel like a super dork....Zip tieing it up should be sufficient....ugly things happen on the track if your kickstand should happen to come down in a turn. Even if the track you go to does not require it, I highly recommend securing your kickstand just for safety's sake.
Remember to snip off the zip tie excess once you have snugged them all down.
That's about all for zip-ties. Again, if there are any questions DO NOT HESITATE to ask. This is for your safety which in turn will help you enjoy your track day!
Now I am sure this sounds intimidating, but it is really easy! Why do we want to remove these fuses? Well, you will be putting a plastic tape of sorts over your headlights and directionals. Rather than running the risk of the tape getting hot and melting I prefer to pull the fuses. I have no desire to replace my headlights due to my being careless.
Same disclaimer as before, if you break your bike, it's your fault!!! My R6 was used to demonstrate so your bike may be different. ALWAYS verify with your owner's manual before you attempt electrical items for warnings and tips.
Before you start, you may want to disconnect your battery. It is always a safe bet when you are trying something new for the first time. Safety First!
So, on my R6, I need to get to my fuse box which is beneath the plastic cover above the upper fairing and beneath the handlebars on rider's left. I am not sure of the technical term, but I kind of see it as my bike's "dash". To remove this piece, two screws need to be removed from the mid fairing as I have shown in the first two pictures below. All it takes is a 4mm allen wrench. Again, remember "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey", so using the allen wrench loosen both screws by turning the wrench to the left. NOTE: There is a little plastic washer on the screw-make sure you don't lose it!!!! Picture three shows the screw and washer "assembly".
Now, to remove this plastic cover (again 2003-2004 R6), you need to push it TOWARDS the headlight of the bike. There are two little tabs on the mid fairing that hold it in place. I have pointed them out in picture two. Once you have it pushed forward, it will "pop" out from beneath the mid fairing as I have pointed out in the first picture.
I know you will feel like you are going to break your bike...just be gentle and remember that plastic is more durable than you think. It does have SOME flex to it. Now this does NOT mean you grab hold of it and just rip it off in a bionic woman fashion. This will break off the tabs that hold it in place and end up costing you money in the end. Be gentle but firm and you will guide it out of position and off the bike.
Now that you have th cover off, you can look for the little black fuse box. I have it pointed out in the first picture. There is a little "tab" locking device on the side towards the rider's seat that you need to push in with your thumb in order to pull the top open.
Once you open the fuse box, you should see a "legend" or map of the fuse box. This map will tell you which fuse is for what purpose. You will want to locate the fuse for the head light and directionals (or signals). All you need to do it gently pull them out. Sometimes they can be stubborn and a needle nose pliers will come in very handy to remove them. Make sure you store them in a safe location so you can put them back in after your track day.
Now, close the fuse box, make sure that it snaps securely. This is the time you want to check that you pulled the right fuses. Reconnect your battery and turn on the bike to verify the headlight and directionals DO NOT WORK.
Once you are certain you have the right fuses pulled, turn the bike off and you can put the cover back on in the reverse order of how you took it off. Be sure to line up all the tabs in the fairing so it is held properly in place. Sometimes this takes two hands to line them up and secure them. On the R6, if you let go of the two pieces and they do not seperate, you know the tabs connected. Make sure you line up the two pieces before you start the screw nearest the tank. You do not want to start the screw crooked because you may cross-thread something or just plain damage a piece you do not want to replace. Don't forget to make sure that little plastic washer is on the screw as well.
Snug the screw, but do not over tighten-again you will cause damage as these parts do not require a lot of force (torque) to tighten. Then replace the second screw/washer assembly and snug down. My rule of thumb is to snug the screws down and the then turn 1/4 additional turn. What sucks about this is if you don't tighten them enough, they will fall out. If you over tighten them you will strip something and trash it. So just be careful and use common sense.
Congratulations!!! You are one step closer to being on the track!!!!
Well here is the final installation of "how to prep your bike for trackdays" series. I really hope you have found it helpful. As always, if there are any questions, please ask.
Once again the disclaimer: You break/ruin your bike it is not my fault or SBN's. This information is for reference only and it is your choice to follow it as well as your responsibility to verify it is relevant to you, your bike and the track you are going to be riding on.
That being said, let's talk tape. There are different types of tape that people use. I personally use a wide electrical tape. First of all because it is black so it looks super cool with my bike's paint scheme and secondly because the minimal residue left behind is easily removed with good old Honda Polish (Did I mention I love that stuff??? ) Some people choose duct tape-I would stay away from it. The adhesive residue left behind is just plain nasty.
So, the attached pictures show what areas you are required to tape:
Headlights, tail lights and directionals. While you are at it, you can remove your license plate if you want to. Some tracks require the removal of it while others don't mind it staying. On my R6, if you open the passenger seat and look into the trunk, there are four allen screws, I believe 4mm that you can take out which will drop the plate bracket. Be aware that there is a little bracket on the undertail side that you will need to catch and then put back on after you remove the plate. The allen screws will go right back in. If anyone needs more info on that, I can demo it later. Just let me know.
Oh, my tail light is integrated with the directionals. If your directionals are still seperate you can cover them seperately with tape.
What back protector do you have?
I'm lookin into the SIDI boots. Yay or Nay?
What boots do you have?
I have some now but I don't think I'm willing to try them on the track, they aren't all that great...just a $80 set that I got from Cycle Gear.
What tires do you run?
I need new tires anyway but what would be a descent track/street tire? I probably won't do any more track days this year since the season is almost over. So I'll use the tires on the track one time and street for the rest I'm guesssing.
I can't wait for my leather suit to come in Should be here in a couple of weeks at the latest. Custom suit just for ME ME ME
Drain Plug
Anyway, make sure you have a pair of "nippers" so you can cut the excess off after you have tightened them.
Now you can repeat the steps for your other mirror!!!
My R6 was used to demonstrate so your bike may be different. ALWAYS verify with your owner's manual before you attempt electrical items for warnings and tips.
Linear Mode
