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Politics & ReligionWell Since every damn forum has one. Might as well leave it out there. This place is loosely moderated and should not be entered if you're weak of heart.
Beats me why I am trying to get the point across here. It's certainly not something to get too excited about, because none of us has much impact one way or another in the grand scheme of things.
becouse this is a democratic republic where you elect peole who represent your Ideals
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There are a number of people who bought vehicles which use a lot of fuel even while prices were high. They posted up right in this thread. I use fuel to go around in circles on a track, and did so this summer even though fuel prices were high. It is what I like to do, and we have a choice. High fuel prices don't preclude anything anybody wants to do.
great and if they can afford it and that is what they want to do, thats fine, the same with your racing. but do not go stand on a soapbox telling me what I should be driving when you are being a complete and total hypocrite about the entire damn thing
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For the time being, our economy will benefit from lower fuel prices. It is good to have the price low during a down cycle, since the government's ability to be a counterweight is limited now. In the long term, we will benefit from having higher fuel prices. It's not a matter of forcing anybody's ideas on anybody else. It's a simple reality that people generally pay attention to things in a very economic way. When fuel prices are low and the economy is good, fuel efficiency is not very high on people's list of reasons to make one choice or another. When fuel prices go up, the choices may or may not be different. If the big 3, or maybe big two or maybe just Ford, will figure out how to satisfy demand and make money by building what people want, including increased fuel economy. If people want SUVs with high fuel economy, somebody will make them. No problem. Or jacked up trucks.
let the economy decide, do not force it. The japanese entered the market where the big three failed to capitalize. and did so very successfully, that is America and capitalist princible. Forcing a company to make something in which the government wants is fascism.
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No inconsistency here. I don't think mileage standards work. Emissions standards are necessary because emissions is a perfect example of the commons problem. It's a classic American issue, dating back to the 1600s in New England.
Some emissions were necissary, however it has gotten to the point where the EPA is merely putting forth standards wich are nearly impossible and litterally are draining not just automanufactures, but everyone else. and Yes, with my business I fall under there guidlines, and most are nothing more than hippy la la bullshit with no sense of rational reality behind them
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Sorry you are getting so wound up. I don't see this as much of anything to get wound up about. It's just an analysis of the facts at hand and human behavior. I doubt most people really care much about what they drive or ride near as much as people on this forum do.
Obviously I care more what I ride or drive than most people on this forum, Including you considering my main modes of transportation for years have been older economical vehicles with trucks used only for job sites, hunting and hauling my toys on rare occassion. However you do not see me pushing for legislation on anyone else.
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Now, as far as electric or alternative motorcycles are concerned, there's a company converting KLR650s to diesel for the Marines. I thought one of those would be pretty great, since they get close to 100mpg if you can keep your hoof out of it. They are priced way out of what I can afford, so I don't have one for the time being. Sure WVO has its issues. If all of us was taking the used fryer oil from the local burger joint, the price of waste vegetable oil would go sky high. Until then, it's just burning waste. I can't do it just yet, though. As far as a green house, we have been slowly insulating our house, and we chose to live within walking distance of just about everything we use at home. We don't burn gasoline to get groceries, for example. It was a choice we made twenty years ago. We chose to live where we do partly because there's public transportation to get to where I thought I would be working. It didn't work out that way, but it will one day. There's a lot of ways to go after the problem if you chose to. If you don't want to, that's fine with me as well.
It's all about economics, not coercion.
Again, thats fine if economics demand it, but the government needs to stay the hell out of it. The government does not deserve to recieve anymore taxes when it has failed on almost every goddamn level. Its Ironic that people are calling for the heads of the big three, yet our elected officials fail us over and over again and Americans continue to reelect them.
Insulating your house is a double edge sword, there was no radan problem untell super good cents homes in the early 80s. Radan, has lost a way to escape so ventilation is key.
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It's funny you bring up the negatives of insulation. Radon isn't the only one. We don't have a Radon problems here, but improperly installed insulation causes buildings to rot away quickly. Everything has a tradeoff.
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It's funny you bring up the negatives of insulation. Radon isn't the only one. We don't have a Radon problems here, but improperly installed insulation causes buildings to rot away quickly. Everything has a tradeoff.
Improperly installed insulation? Vaper barriers (plastic) put up wrong could cause it. The main reason buildings are rotting and suffering from mold ect is a couple things, one, People build in anything anymore and the first thing that used to be put on was of course the roof, second the siding, Now houses are built in sort of a random fashion and left exposed to the elements. The other big problem is green lumber. Between the two the problems you suggested come about.
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Energy codes are another issue. If you have heavily insulated walls, and you have mechanical ventillation, it causes negative pressure inside the house or building if it's not vented the right way. A sure fire way to have a problem is to have timed venting in an apartment building for code reasons and use vents in the windows for makeup air. Tenants shut the vents or block them, because they don't like the draft. Sure enough, you have the negative pressure sucking water in all kinds of weird ways. I have seen an issue where a combination of rain and negative pressure problems caused water to climb about eight inches into a building.
Leaky old construction like I live in doesn't have the same issues unless you insulate and take away its ability to dry out after it gets wet. When our house was built, the construction standards were poor to abysmal, and there's no building paper or other barrier under the siding. I don't know if they even had building paper in 1906. It is still standing not because it is well built or sheds water well, but because it can dry out. I guess we will see what happens to our kitchen over time, since it takes the brunt of the weather. I suppose I'm going to have to pull the siding and reside it using modern materials and techniques one of these days, but for the time being, it's paid for.
My problems are self inflicted if we have any, but conflicting codes cause all kinds of problems. There's no doubt you could add to the list without much thought, since anybody who's built anything has had to deal with it.
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Hey since we're on the topic of houses and you guys seem up on it... I'm gonna derail this topic!
How does that insulation that's shot into your attic rafters able to do what it does? We're talking the expanding foam that is in direct contact with the underside of your roof plywood.
Doesn't that block the ability of the attic to vent properly? The companies here are making huge pushes to have homeowners install this stuff, claiming attics are so well insulated with this stuff that the temp in the attic is with 10 degrees of your living spaces.
Hey since we're on the topic of houses and you guys seem up on it... I'm gonna derail this topic!
How does that insulation that's shot into your attic rafters able to do what it does? We're talking the expanding foam that is in direct contact with the underside of your roof plywood.
Doesn't that block the ability of the attic to vent properly? The companies here are making huge pushes to have homeowners install this stuff, claiming attics are so well insulated with this stuff that the temp in the attic is with 10 degrees of your living spaces.
Blowing wool is a loose fiber stuff that you would blow into your attict, works very very well since it leaves very little openings anywhere. Your attic has to breath however so if you spray some of that in make sure your vents are not covered. You will definitly increase your R value with that for sure.
As for the sticky mix (we did certainteed but only on walls and it does have a high R factor versus traditional bats) IM not sure why you would spray it into your rafters since your attic still needs to stay vented but IM sure it could help, again, make sure you keep venting. The tighter a home the more prone children are to allergies as well.
The problem with anything, I real good salesmen talks to a moron and said moron has control and bam, we R all fucked. Not sure if this is the case, but usually yup it is.
My GTO is a "gas guzzler" and it has nothing to do with being short-sighted, it has to do with driving what I want to drive. I can afford the gas, and could even if it was $8/gallon.
My good friend has the 5.7L 6-Speed and gets great mileage on the highway. Although I heard the 6.0L was a lot worst.
My good friend has the 5.7L 6-Speed and gets great mileage on the highway. Although I heard the 6.0L was a lot worst.
I owned the 5.7L previously. They're about the same.
My '00 Corvette with the 5.7 got significantly better mileage, primarily due to aerodynamics and weight. I saw 18 MPG on a bad day and 32 MPG on a good one--averaging more like 26 MPG. With both GTOs it's been more like 15 MPG on a bad day and 25 MPG at best.
To date the Corvette has had the best real-world mileage of any cage I've owned, beating even the '03 Sentra SE-R and '04 Honda Accord V6.
Hey since we're on the topic of houses and you guys seem up on it... I'm gonna derail this topic!
How does that insulation that's shot into your attic rafters able to do what it does? We're talking the expanding foam that is in direct contact with the underside of your roof plywood.
Doesn't that block the ability of the attic to vent properly? The companies here are making huge pushes to have homeowners install this stuff, claiming attics are so well insulated with this stuff that the temp in the attic is with 10 degrees of your living spaces.
An attic should not vent through the plywood, it should vent through the vents. Usually these are either traditional vents at the ends of the attic, or a rooftop vent along the apex of the roof itself.
Blowing wool is a loose fiber stuff that you would blow into your attict, works very very well since it leaves very little openings anywhere. Your attic has to breath however so if you spray some of that in make sure your vents are not covered. You will definitly increase your R value with that for sure.
As for the sticky mix (we did certainteed but only on walls and it does have a high R factor versus traditional bats) IM not sure why you would spray it into your rafters since your attic still needs to stay vented but IM sure it could help, again, make sure you keep venting. The tighter a home the more prone children are to allergies as well.
The problem with anything, I real good salesmen talks to a moron and said moron has control and bam, we R all fucked. Not sure if this is the case, but usually yup it is.
When we were building our house we asked the builder for an "attic fan" to be included. Growing up in Detroit we had what my parents called an "attic fan" that would pump air from our house out through the ceiling and into the attic, so all you had to do was open the windows, turn on the fan, and it would suck cool air in the windows at night. It was great in Michigan since it didn't get all that hot their in the summer.
So when we were doing the pre-drywall inspection on our house in Maryland, I was pissed because the builder apparently didn't put in the attic fan. I asked him about it and it turns out that what I originally wanted was an "exhaust fan", an attic fan is actually mounted in the roof and sucks air out of the attic and vents it outside. This of course circulates attic air but does nothing about circulitaing air in the home. I was pissed but he laughed at me and told me I'd never have the windows open in the Chesapeake Bay summer months because of the humidity (he was right).
But the point is...the attic fan cuts down on the attic temperature BIG TIME. I set the thermostat for when it comes onand there's an easy 20-30degF drop in attic temp in mid-July when it comes on. Helps out quite a bit on house cooling bills and will also help the structure last longer. So in the long run it was a good thing. I still wish I had an "exhaust fan" for spring/fall nights. Maybe I'll put one in myself.
Morale of the story - if you have the option of getting an attic fan, do it.
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I think it's also called a "whole house" fan. Mine has one, and it is great, except I've yet to find screens that cooperate with my windows, so i haven't used it as much as i'd like.
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There's a lot of related attic issues here. For attic ventillation, you don't need a fan if you have a ridge vent and vents in the eaves. Convection will let air circulate freely. As the air under your roof heats up, it will rise out the ridge vent, assuming there's no obstruction, pulling cooler air into the space.
A fan is only necessary if the roof isn't vented properly. As far as a whole house exhaust fan, those are generally used out here for whole house ventillation for energy code reasons. They become necessary when the house is sealed up so tight air can't get in or out without help. Those cause all kinds of issues if you don't have the makeup air venting figured out properly. If you are blowin air into your house, it's a different issue, but I haven't seen a code yet where that's how it's done.
There are all kinds of roof insluation and all kinds of roofs. Each one has specific issues it has to deal with. The usual asphalt shingle roofs age faster if they get too hot, even though they are designed to get hot enough to raise blisters. You want them vented underneath to keep them from getting too hot and too brittle. Another reason for venting is condensation. A wood structure will rot if it's damp too much, and you can't keep mold spores from getting in if there's any porousness.
Blown in cellulose or fiberglass needs a good vapor barrier on the warm side and decent venting on the top to work well as roof insulation, at least in this climate. Because they are porous, they retain water in a way something like urethan foam doesn't. The vapor barrier keeps warm, moist air from the inside of the house from getting into the insulation. Cold air oustide doesn't have the same humidity, so as the insulation does it's job, the dew point within the insulation is less relevant. Without the vapor barrier, you will get dew inside the insulation with predictable results. Ventillation on top lets any moisture out, so it's a two part system, if you want to think about it like that.
There are other systems, especially on commercial buildings, which use insulation right under the roofing materials. It's very common to see rigid foam boards fastened to the top of a roof deck, even a wood deck, under a membrane roof of some kind. the insulation is mostly non-porous, and it doesn't rot in any case. The roofing materials are designed for application right on top of a deck or insulation ontop of a deck. If you see insulation below a wood framed deck and a membrane roof on top, I will bet it is vented, for the same reasons you vent the roof of your wood framed house. If the insulation is on top, then the dew point is not anywhere near the wood, and the wood is actually inside where it stays heated and dried out.
So, I personally wouldn't put any kind of expanding foam insulation inside my attic, and I certainly wouldn't put it on roof structure. It would take some research to find out where the idea comes from or what the product is, but Blurr is probably right. A good salesman talked to an ignorant person and convinced him or her it was a good idea. I am far less convinced.
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An attic should not vent through the plywood, it should vent through the vents. Usually these are either traditional vents at the ends of the attic, or a rooftop vent along the apex of the roof itself.
Right - but wouldn't this expanding foam block the "channels" that the air can move through the soffits and up through the vents?
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