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Performance and CustomizingShare your tips and tricks on customizing your sportbike. From windscreens, footpegs, undertails, flushmounts, paint, exhausts, and tires.
From where I sit, the only benefits of getting a shorty lever such as Pazzo is a) looks and b) if you lay it down, you won't have to buy OEM clutch/brake levers.
Are there any other benefits other than aesthetics and having to buy another set of levers?
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What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us. - Emerson
Since we are all putting our bikes' specs in our sigs: Silver/White GSXR600K6 - smoke Puig windscreen, Yoshi R-55 full system, BMC race filter, PCIII, black -1/0 520 conversion kit, Galfer HH compound brake pads & Superbike brake lines, Sato Black rearsets, smoke turnsignals (front & rear), Dunlop Sportmax GPs
shorties allow you to pull in your brake or clutch with 1 or 2 fingers, without the rest of the lever hitting your fingers rested on the grip. it makes you feel more "attached" to the bars.
some change leverage ratio, making it easier to pull.
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Sportbike: Ninja 250 - Official bike of SBN - modded to 232cc
lol @ that guys avatar! ^ ^
another advantage is they are less likely to break your fingers/hands if you get thrown off in a weird way. No reason to buy another set of levers, just cut your stock ones down. there's no reason to use 4 fingers on either lever anyway, unless you have really weak arm/hand strength or something...? I use 1 finger in the clutch and 2 on the brake. Takes a mental effort to start doing that but once you get used to it it is far superior.
Shorty exhaust pipes also look better, weigh less, centralize mass better and do not scrape the ground as easy.
get an aftermarket pipe much ligther and better for performance. or you could cut your stock pipe with a sawzall it will be louder and has the possibility to hurt performance but it cheap.
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Sportbike: Ninja 250 - Official bike of SBN - modded to 232cc
^^ no, you can cut your stock pipe and keep all the baffles in place. Cut it about 4" from the end and then when you open it up you can see and measure how much further you can cut it again closer to the base, then line the baffle tubes up and weld the end back on. You can get about 6"-8" out and still keep the baffles on most pipes and it will sound and perform about the same... or you can cut out more and lose the baffles, or just buy a two bros shorty.
when you have less baffle its going to get louder and change the backpressure a little. it may not be enough to hurt performance you wont know till you do it. and if it does it wont be to bad.
I have a Yosh bolt on. I bought the bike with some damge the pipe was all scratched towards the top so I hacked it, I pulled the baffle too because I like the sound. lack of the baffle took away some throttle response but it i dont care because I like the sound.
I'm cheap as fuck and if I were you I would cut it. but obviously the best route would be an aftermarket pipe thats designed to be the way you want it. thats all I was trying to say
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Posts: 1,243
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Sportbike: Ninja 250 - Official bike of SBN - modded to 232cc
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94rf900r
when you have less baffle its going to get louder and change the backpressure a little. it may not be enough to hurt performance you wont know till you do it. and if it does it wont be to bad.
I have done it and just shortening the baffles doesn't have any noticeable effect on the sound or throttle response, but between the time I cut it and got it welded I rode it with just the back half of the can cut off and the low end torque was gone. Sounded good though, but the noise gets old after a while. Sometimes it's nice to be stealthy.
From where I sit, the only benefits of getting a shorty lever such as Pazzo is a) looks and b) if you lay it down, you won't have to buy OEM clutch/brake levers.
Are there any other benefits other than aesthetics and having to buy another set of levers?
Looks, and they usually weigh less...and umm... maybe easier to pull?
I don't see them as being a benefit for laying it down. The longer ones protect the bike a little honestly. They hit before even the bar ends hit... and on a simple "fall over"... it's cheaper to replace the levers than it is some other parts...
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Sportbike: Ninja 250 - Official bike of SBN - modded to 232cc
^^ but if you're lever breaks at the pivot point you can't ride home because you have no front brake or clutch... It's definitely better that your lever not hit the ground. Longer levers do not protect the bike in any way, shape or form, by any stretch of the imagination. That's just laughable. They snap like twigs. Protection is what sliders, rails and cages are for.
btw, the Driven sprocket is the rear one... The front is called the drive sprocket.
^^ but if you're lever breaks at the pivot point you can't ride home because you have no front brake or clutch... It's definitely better that your lever not hit the ground. Longer levers do not protect the bike in any way, shape or form, by any stretch of the imagination. That's just laughable. They snap like twigs. Protection is what sliders, rails and cages are for.
btw, the Driven sprocket is the rear one... The front is called the drive sprocket.
Umm.. just so you know... "driven" is the brand..... you should know better.
And the longer levers DO assist.. why else would they have those large balls on the end of them? If you are going to throw your bike around like a rag doll (like a "stunta")... then not much of anything is going to protect your bike....
It all comes down to personal preference. Having experienced an bike wreck before, and having experienced a "tip over" before... i like my longer levers. Even though I can certainly see how the short ones could be handy.
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Benefits of Shorties
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