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Performance and CustomizingShare your tips and tricks on customizing your sportbike. From windscreens, footpegs, undertails, flushmounts, paint, exhausts, and tires.
Man I went down a tooth on my front sprocket. Boy did my speed change and was putting a ton on extra miles on the bike. I talked to a good friend who own's a local shop here. He was telling me about the item called speedohealer at first I was like what ever. I checked it out and decided to order it. Ran me shipped at $106. I got it to day and just had a chance to put it on. Just took the bike for a ride and was very happy with the product. If you just go up a tooth in the back not worth it. But two or more on the back or drop a tooth on the front I would do it. Very easy to install and painless.
it was well worth it! it will fix the factory error which is a couple of mph off, also tread wear, sprocket change, and will also hold your top speed in memory. My bike was off bad I was doing 65mph and reading 80mph or more. Ride for an hour thats an extra 20 miles or more. check out www.speedohealer.com
I haven't seen anyone having a problem. but I would call a dealer and not the one you bought the bike from and ask if it would void anything. dealers are weird about things like this due to you change a sprocket.
Hey Guys,
I've been thinking about doing this too. Any body have any trouble with the warranty on their bike after doing this?
It's plug and play, that's why I prefer it to the Yellow Box product, which has to be spliced into the harness.
The only thing I can think that might affect warranty is that these devices also affect the odometer rate, since they typically run off the same pickup.
Interesting. I'm not looking to change a sprocket, but my speedo stock has to be a good 10% off reality and it gets annoying. How did you guys test your indicated speed versus real speed to be able to calibrate this thing? I suppose the easiest thing is to get a cop-friend to clock you while you hold a steady speed.
speedohealer website has a calculator for the correction factor, but the instructions give 3 ways of calculating the CF....and one is to be clocked at steady speed.
Interesting. I'm not looking to change a sprocket, but my speedo stock has to be a good 10% off reality and it gets annoying. How did you guys test your indicated speed versus real speed to be able to calibrate this thing? I suppose the easiest thing is to get a cop-friend to clock you while you hold a steady speed.
The *easiest* and *best* way of calibrating them is if you have access to a hand-held GPS. Every one I've seen has a top-speed feature built in (even my old cheap-ass eTrex). So does the SpeedoHealer.
Reset the top speed on the SpeedoHealer and the GPS. Pick a target speed (say 80mph), and go out on the freeway. Approach that speed (per the speedometer) slowly from below, maintain it for a few seconds (GPS calculates over time), then pull off and stop. Record the actual top speed from the GPS (and from the SpeedoHealer). Reset and do it again on the way home just to double-check. Average the two sets of readings, plug them into the website calculator, and you'll get a correction factor back that is accurate to a tenth of a mph.
This is *much* easier than trying to eyeball a GPS and a speedometer at the same time, and much more accurate than trying to pace another vehicle of dubious accuracy and eyeball your speedometer at the same time.
The *easiest* and *best* way of calibrating them is if you have access to a hand-held GPS. Every one I've seen has a top-speed feature built in (even my old cheap-ass eTrex). So does the SpeedoHealer.
Reset the top speed on the SpeedoHealer and the GPS. Pick a target speed (say 80mph), and go out on the freeway. Approach that speed (per the speedometer) slowly from below, maintain it for a few seconds (GPS calculates over time), then pull off and stop. Record the actual top speed from the GPS (and from the SpeedoHealer). Reset and do it again on the way home just to double-check. Average the two sets of readings, plug them into the website calculator, and you'll get a correction factor back that is accurate to a tenth of a mph.
This is *much* easier than trying to eyeball a GPS and a speedometer at the same time, and much more accurate than trying to pace another vehicle of dubious accuracy and eyeball your speedometer at the same time.
KeS
I agree this would be the best way to do it, now only if I had a GPS unit... damn
The *easiest* and *best* way of calibrating them is if you have access to a hand-held GPS. Every one I've seen has a top-speed feature built in (even my old cheap-ass eTrex). So does the SpeedoHealer.
Reset the top speed on the SpeedoHealer and the GPS. Pick a target speed (say 80mph), and go out on the freeway. Approach that speed (per the speedometer) slowly from below, maintain it for a few seconds (GPS calculates over time), then pull off and stop. Record the actual top speed from the GPS (and from the SpeedoHealer). Reset and do it again on the way home just to double-check. Average the two sets of readings, plug them into the website calculator, and you'll get a correction factor back that is accurate to a tenth of a mph.
This is *much* easier than trying to eyeball a GPS and a speedometer at the same time, and much more accurate than trying to pace another vehicle of dubious accuracy and eyeball your speedometer at the same time.
KeS
Good method. However, I'm a big fan of the pace a car method. I checked my car's accuracy by using a police radar equipment on the road. Made a few passes at 30, 40, 55, etc. Checked the radar readout and the car's speedometer. Eliminates the issue of inaccuracy in the car's speedometer.
Sponsored by Arnott Air Ride
SPEEDOHEALER!! I give prop's
Linear Mode
