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Performance and CustomizingShare your tips and tricks on customizing your sportbike. From windscreens, footpegs, undertails, flushmounts, paint, exhausts, and tires.
Mods, please leave this here as it is about customizing, just not on my bike. It is about paint though.
I have an old 1950 refrigerator that I'm going to paint. I was going to something else originally that would probably had required airbrushing, but I'm not going to do that now due to my abilities and my wallet size. Now I'm going to just make it Black and white. I don't have pics now, but I'll put some up later to show you what it looks like and what I want it to look like.
Now, should I use automotive paint for this? Do I need to? I was thinking that I might be able to use cheaper paint since rocks won't be hitting this paint, but I wouldn't know what kind or anything. I want something durable, but I don't know if automotive quality paint is necessary. Also, I ready Grashopr's thread (stickied) about painting a bike, and he mentioned that they sell "quality" paints in aerosal cans too. I'd like to go this route if possible since I don't want to haul it out of my basement if possible, damn thing weighs 250-300 lbs.
Here it is. I want to paint everything that is white, black. I also want to repaint the recessed area a cream or bone type white. It would look pretty sharp that way I think.
well you dont need the automotive paint, but if you have an air compress or and a gun, or dont mind spending about $60 you can do it.....i got a $12 gun at harbor frieght (gravity feed) and then all you need is a pint of primer and pint of color from o'reilly.....looks like it could cover it all
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R.I.P Shawn "Krazy Hawaiian" McCallister July 11, 1956 - July 23, 2007
We will miss you.
well you dont need the automotive paint, but if you have an air compress or and a gun, or dont mind spending about $60 you can do it.....i got a $12 gun at harbor frieght (gravity feed) and then all you need is a pint of primer and pint of color from o'reilly.....looks like it could cover it all
There is a reason professional painters don't use cheap ass guns I always see you pushing on these threads. Cheap equiptment and cheap material result in shit work. I use a $12 Harbor Frieght gun for primer only b/c the tip big enough for primer which is thicker and has to be sanded out anyways and I don't want to ruin my good guns. The same tip is too big for paint and will result in runs and orange peel b/c it doesn't spray the paint fine/even enough. I use a high quality $400 Devilbiss gun for base/clear.
The easiest way for you to do your fridge is to wet sand with some 400 grit paper and make sure the surface is clean. Locate your local quality automotive paint retailer and purchase spray cans from them.
I'm sure that's excellent advice, and if this were to be my main fridge in my home, I'd do just that. Instead, this will be a kegerator, but one with style vs. the late 70's/80's style avocado fridges you usuall see made into kegerators.
Plus, you're a little late. Turns out, they make rattle can epoxy paint made for appliance repainting. I got one coat of the main part of the fridge and still have the door to go. I tried to scratch some of the overspray, and it's already tough paint. I know it won't be as good as automotive paint, but this won't have rocks hitting it at 70 mph either. It's got a pretty decent gloss too. Not perfect, but good. Hell, the fridge was free.
Only bad part is that I must not have sanded one side good enough (I wet sanded 320) because I've got pin holes where the paint wouldn't adhere. The top and the right side turned out pretty good all things considered, but the left looks like ass. Any easier way to make it look decent vs sanding it completely down and repainting? I was thinking maybe using some sort of chemical to clean the pinholes of whatever is in them and doing a light sanding before a recoat. Think that might work? If so, what would you use for the chemical part?
There is a reason professional painters don't use cheap ass guns I always see you pushing on these threads. Cheap equiptment and cheap material result in shit work. I use a $12 Harbor Frieght gun for primer only b/c the tip big enough for primer which is thicker and has to be sanded out anyways and I don't want to ruin my good guns. The same tip is too big for paint and will result in runs and orange peel b/c it doesn't spray the paint fine/even enough. I use a high quality $400 Devilbiss gun for base/clear.
The easiest way for you to do your fridge is to wet sand with some 400 grit paper and make sure the surface is clean. Locate your local quality automotive paint retailer and purchase spray cans from them.
you do realize you can buy different tips for spray guns, right? there are also several adjustments on the gun itself...ill have my bike painted in about a week and you can judge for yourself the quality of the gun
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R.I.P Shawn "Krazy Hawaiian" McCallister July 11, 1956 - July 23, 2007
We will miss you.
you do realize you can buy different tips for spray guns, right? there are also several adjustments on the gun itself...ill have my bike painted in about a week and you can judge for yourself the quality of the gun
Did you even read the whole post??? What part of "I use a $12 Harbor Frieght gun for primer only" would imply I don't know about the quality of your cheap gun? You get what you pay for... enjoy!
i guess if the guy wanted to go out and spend $600 just to paint some fridge he plans to use for partying and nothing else that would be fine....but im 100% sure he's not gonna do that....
carry on
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R.I.P Shawn "Krazy Hawaiian" McCallister July 11, 1956 - July 23, 2007
We will miss you.
i guess if the guy wanted to go out and spend $600 just to paint some fridge he plans to use for partying and nothing else that would be fine....but im 100% sure he's not gonna do that....
carry on
Again, read the whole post. This time the very last sentence.
I've painted a few round-top fridges in the past (I have been collecting them for a few years now just for custom painting, and currently have 5 ranging from a 1938 to the late 1960's). They are made out of steel, so autobody bodyworking techniques work perfectly on them. Use automotive materials to smooth the surface (no need to completely strip them unless you WANT to.. just polyester the surface then smooth it out and spray your primer/surfacer) then *I* use a single-stage paint for ease of use and cost. The single stage is polishable, adheres well, and you can get nearly any color you can get in BC/CC.
As far as guns; the HF HVLP's can be used to produce an acceptable finish, they just require more post-painting color sanding and polishing. If you are spraying a metallic, pearl or tri-coat, I'd spend the extra $$ and at least get a Devilbiss Finishline III HVLP or the equivalent (around $100 from multiple online sources). The HF HVLP's just dont spray a fine enough pattern to spray anything but solid colors IMO.
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I've got a couple of those cheap-ass guns too. I use them for primer on certain smaller projects. But we're talking automotive projects here and they're pretty much junk for anything else I'd do with them. For your fridge though? Play around with one if you have the means to do so.
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