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Performance and CustomizingShare your tips and tricks on customizing your sportbike. From windscreens, footpegs, undertails, flushmounts, paint, exhausts, and tires.
I'm going to be going up 2 teeth on my rear sprocket (haven't decided if I'm going down 1 in front yet), but in looking at the prices of everything, it appears that I may save some cash if I go for one of those 520 conversion kits from Ebay.
Has anyone had any experience with a 520 conversion on a liter (or near-liter) bike?
Additionally, has anyone used the "light/medium duty" chain breaker/riveter available for $50 on ebay, or can anyone offer any suggestions on a good brand of chain tool to use?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajohn505
I'm going to be going up 2 teeth on my rear sprocket (haven't decided if I'm going down 1 in front yet), but in looking at the prices of everything, it appears that I may save some cash if I go for one of those 520 conversion kits from Ebay.
Has anyone had any experience with a 520 conversion on a liter (or near-liter) bike?
Additionally, has anyone used the "light/medium duty" chain breaker/riveter available for $50 on ebay, or can anyone offer any suggestions on a good brand of chain tool to use?
For what youre doing (occasional use) the light duty chain breaker is all you need.
the 919 is a good candidate for a 520 as its not huge on power numbers. I would go ahead and do it. Just buy the best chain you can. DID RK EK I never recommend Tsubaki but get the best one you can afford and religiously maintain it. You will have a lot longer life of everything involved.
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cause rascus said I had to.........
HELP ME FIX IT MOD.........PM me with any questions you have...actually PM RASCUS hahhaha
The friction which results from ignorance can be reduced only by the spread of knowledge- NIKOLA TESLA Want to learn how to work on your bike? Check the "HOW TO" subsection of HELP ME FIX IT.
Anyone try a +2 rear without doing the -1 front? Is it even worth doing if I don't change the number of teeth on the front? Basically I'm not looking for a huge night-and-day upgrade, just a little kick in the ass. The bike's already got tons of power.
I did a +2 on the rear w/520 conversion on my old bike, and it was a great upgrade .
The lower rotating mass, coupled with the regearing will definitely give you more oomph. Consider a speedo recalibrater if the accuracy is important to you .
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'02 954RR- stock(ish)
'98 Neon R/T- not stock
'07 Cannondale Rush Carbon - new baby
Anyone try a +2 rear without doing the -1 front? Is it even worth doing if I don't change the number of teeth on the front? Basically I'm not looking for a huge night-and-day upgrade, just a little kick in the ass. The bike's already got tons of power.
Go w/ the +2 on the rear. Going down on the front puts more stress on the chain, and you sound like you want longevity + performance. I did a +2 520 on my lil ol' 600 and it made it feel much better. I used a DID and would recommend them to anyone looking for a top shelf chain. I went w/ Renthal sprockets and they are doing well so far. (used renthal on all my dirtbikes)
I ran 520 kits on my GSX-R1000 which was a powerhouse. I ran the piss out of that thing too. Never had any problems aside from changing chain and sprockets every 7000 miles.
I have had 2 CBR900's that I ran +2 in back and -1 up front. I think you will enjoy the added thrust.
Hybrid, why no Tsubaki chains? The drag racers around here seem to prefer them.
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The 5 stands for the pitch in 1/8". Where pitch is the distance between the pins. So, for motorcycle chains, the pins are 5/8" apart. I don't recall how they come up with the second set of numbers, but they designate the width of the roller. That is, 520 is a narrower chain than say a 525 or 530.
Yes I did it on my Aprilia. If you are worried if the chain can take the power yes it can and it will give you a bit more performance due to less rotating mass. But both sprockets will need to be swapped to work with the new chain. I assume you saw one of the kits with both sprockets and chain- good deals. One thing to know is that going smaller on the front works the chain more because we are talking about a narrow angle turn it has to make. Given the option always add teeth to the rear over taking them away on the front. And be ready for more wheelies
Funny, those are the exact ones I was looking to buy from on ebay . How much did they charge for installation?
They used my bike for the installation how to section. Since I let them use my bike, they didnt charge me...Good deal for me anyway. Here is the how to section..notice the clean arse R1!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redstar11
I ran 520 kits on my GSX-R1000 which was a powerhouse. I ran the piss out of that thing too. Never had any problems aside from changing chain and sprockets every 7000 miles.
I have had 2 CBR900's that I ran +2 in back and -1 up front. I think you will enjoy the added thrust.
Hybrid, why no Tsubaki chains? The drag racers around here seem to prefer them.
Sorry I didnt get back to you sooner man..........
I just dont care for the tsubaki chains. We ran them when I worked for MUZZY Kawasaki but I have to be honest man. We threw them away after every race. Sure we used them and sure we had the sticker but when you get oh say 300 chains for free.......youll use whatever you get, no?
Because I did an extensive study on chain drives I know what Im looking for in wear pattern and the like, I could explain it to you but the information for the rest of the board is overkill.
I started out as a straightliner and I know why they love them some tsubaki's...most of them are low grade chains and the offer little resistance in movement but also wear out a fuck of a lot faster. When I was a tard and didnt know anybetter the dragracers used to "lube" a chain with WD40 because of the reduced stiction
So unless tsubaki came out with some badass new chain........Ill stay with my EK or DID or RK and the RK better be top of the line too
__________________
cause rascus said I had to.........
HELP ME FIX IT MOD.........PM me with any questions you have...actually PM RASCUS hahhaha
The friction which results from ignorance can be reduced only by the spread of knowledge- NIKOLA TESLA Want to learn how to work on your bike? Check the "HOW TO" subsection of HELP ME FIX IT.
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I'd go with a DID ERV3 520 or a EK SRX 520...the DID will give you a bit more tensile strength, but the EK will cost a lot less. Both are good chains. And if you want longevity out of the sprocket, grab a hard anodized one. They'll last you longer for minimal cost.