clutch question

ChrisP · 04-08-2007, 02:18 PM

I just picked up a 99 Sv650 and just have a question about the clutch. When shifting gears does it have to be FULLY engaged? IE, four fingers, closed fist, right to the grip? It wouldnt start up unless it was fully engaged, I never got it out of first gear so im not sure otherwise. I dont remember having to fully pull the clutch all the way in in the MSF course I took. That will get annoying pretty fast. If so, are there any mods I could do? Or atleast adjust the clutch so its a bit closer to the grip?

littlec · 04-08-2007, 02:26 PM

Practice getting the shifting down by pulling in all the way. Learn the friction zone for your clutch. When your comfortable you wont need to pull in all the way.

Anthonyd5189 · 04-08-2007, 04:13 PM

Not sure how your bike is, but on mine the clutch is fully dissengaged at about 1/3 pull...meaning I only have to pull the lever 1/3 of the way. I typically though when doing normal riding I pull it most of the way, only when I'm accelerating fast I pull the lever as little as possible.

But yes you can adjust your lever, but I have no idea how to do it.

thatguyx · 04-08-2007, 06:17 PM

would this be the same thing as adjusting your clutch lever free play? a how-to is in your owner's manual. It would make the clutch pull easier per say, but shorter yes.

kevinwilly · 04-08-2007, 06:47 PM

Nah, you don't have to pull it all the way in if it's adjusted correctly.

And when shifting up, i only use the clutch to get it into first, and then from first to second.

After that, i just upshift without the clutch. It's much nicer that way.

ChrisP · 04-08-2007, 07:07 PM

how do you know when to upshift without the clutch?

RayOSV · 04-08-2007, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisP

how do you know when to upshift without the clutch?

When you've gone about 6 months without missing a shift using the clutch.

You can easily get away without pulling the clutch in all the way except when stopping in first. You'll soon get the feel of it it and it won't hurt anything. You should adjust the clutch so that the start of the friction zone is about half way released. The trick to shifting without the clutch is to get smooth about it. Don't worry about that until you've mastered using the clutch.

ChrisP · 04-08-2007, 07:41 PM

how do you adjust the clutch's friction zone?

RayOSV · 04-08-2007, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisP

how do you adjust the clutch's friction zone?

You use the adjusting nuts near the clutch lever (assuming you don't have to adjust the clutch end of the cable):

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_03...0&parent=11730

14 is the lock nut and 13 is the adjusting nut. They're both under the rubber cover (16). Loosen 14 until you can turn 13. Adjust the cable such that the friction zone starts with the lever about half way out. Tighten 14 to hold it in place. Make sure that the clutch is fully disengaged (bike moving, is this definition reversed?) just before the lever is all the way out. Also make sure the clutch is fully engaged (bike free-wheeling) before the lever is pulled to the grip.

Adjusted like this you only have to pull the lever in half way max to get a smooth shift.

cirsory · 04-08-2007, 10:35 PM

get used to using your clutch in general before getting to what your asking for. but to answer your question. as others have already said, each bike has its friction zone. learn where it is and you'll figure out how far you have to pull it in. I only use 2 fingers to pull the clutch to shift, and i pull it until it just comes short of hitting my other fingers. I use all 4 fingers when slowing to a stop or starting from a stop.

GSXR-750 · 04-09-2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayOSV

You use the adjusting nuts near the clutch lever (assuming you don't have to adjust the clutch end of the cable):

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_03...0&parent=11730

14 is the lock nut and 13 is the adjusting nut. They're both under the rubber cover (16). Loosen 14 until you can turn 13. Adjust the cable such that the friction zone starts with the lever about half way out. Tighten 14 to hold it in place. Make sure that the clutch is fully disengaged (bike moving, is this definition reversed?) just before the lever is all the way out. Also make sure the clutch is fully engaged (bike free-wheeling) before the lever is pulled to the grip.

Adjusted like this you only have to pull the lever in half way max to get a smooth shift.

yep thats backwards.

And adjusting clutch free play is for when your new clutch cable lengthens.

To OP,

Seeing how you dont know how a clutch works, Id advise you to stay as far away from all bolts on your clutch lever. if its working now, let it be, and just deal with having to pull in the clutch all the way.

When the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch is DISENGAGED, no engine power is being transmitted to wheel.

In friction zone, the clutch is PARTLY ENGAGED. Some engine power is going to the wheel. This is how you can have the wheel rpms different from transmission rpms.

When the clutch lever is all the way out, the clutch is FULLY ENGAGED. All engine power is being transmitted to rear wheel. rear wheel is spinning at some ratio of engine rpms. ratio is determined by wheel size, gearing, etc. etc. etc.

VermillionX · 04-09-2007, 02:04 PM

You clutch does need to be just into the friction zone so you can shift. When I am running around just cruising I pull the lever all the way to the grip. However I never use four fingers. I get alot more feel and control with two. Which two is up to you. Now when I am ripping I still use two but I only pull it into my knuckles. That is enough to fully disengagae the clutch.