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Originally Posted by adamf2
Thanks bro. Yeah, the kawi will now be respected more  . Thanks for the compliment on my honda too. I actually painted that myself (tooting my own horn for a second). The forks are obviously fucked. When you push down on the handlebars, you can hear air escaping from them. You can actually feel it too. Yeah, I'm gonna try to find somebody that makes/has parts for this thing and begin restoring it. It runs EXCELLENT. Thanks again for the compliments.
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LOL if ya can hear air coming out then the seals are gone south for the remainder of the season hehe... Seals are fairly easy to change, the thing you will run into on old bikes is the fork stanchion tubes are rusty or pitted. (The chrome thin tube that slides inside the leg. If they are rusty and nearly every old bike will ne then the "correct" way to fix it is buy new tubes. What happens is the rust will break through the chrome on the tubes and where it does the sharp edges of the chrome will shred any seal you put on the fork in just 5 - 10 strokes it will ne pumping oil out like crazy.
If you cannot locate any new fork tubes a "african engineering" fix I came up with will also work. it just isn't as sano and some people don't believe that it works but it does.
What you do is take the forks off the bike. On the bottom of the fork leg is a Allen bolt thats in a recessed hole. Use a impact or a hammer and a couple sharp blows on the allen wrench to break the bolt lose. Unscrew it all the way. Then pull the fork apart. Now is the time to change the seals which are in the lower leg under the black wiper boot.
Hell if your restoring it you may want to polish the aluminum legs while there apart. Once you have them cleaned up (the original finish was a nice semi polish like you get with steel wool then clear coat the legs so they stay that way. The factory had clear on them but such a thin coat it almost washed off.
The fork tubes are the problem and here's how to fix em. Clean them super good using a contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Then using some Ultra Fine wet or dry paper that you can get at napa sand the pitted areas really good. Ultra Fine is about 2000 grit so it doesn't seem to do anything. Sand in a circular motion around the tube not in line with the tube.
Even with such fine sandpaper the scratches if in line will allow oil to weep out very slowly try to sand at a right angle to the tube. So the scratches go around the tube. You cant see them but there there.
DO NOT use any rougher sandpaper than 2000 Ultra Fine! That will make deep gouges in the leg and make sealing it impossible. Just take it easy and take your time. Its a good TV project, something to fiddle with when sitting in front of the idiot box with a cold beer!
Just make sure its all clean and there is no more rust in the pit. You can use a acid rust treatment to kill it off. Its important to make sure there is no rust in the pits.
Clean the tube with laqure thinner or a similar solvent so there is no oil or grease around the pits. Some fork oils have silicone in it so you need to get any of that off the leg for this to work.
Now the black magic.... get some JB weld and mix a small amount up making sure to get it right and mixed well. Use a squeegee and spread a coat of JB over the pits making it very thin. Let it dry over night or bake it in a oven for half a hour at 250 degrees. When its really good and hard take your Ultra Fine paper on a flat block that is actually flat, check it with a straight edge. You want it to lay perfectly flat on the fork tube and simply sand the excess off on the fork leg.
JB weld is great shit, it will fill the pit and when sanded with the super fine wet sand paper it will provide the perfect surface for the seal to keep the oil in! Sounds hokey but if done right you can resurrect the most messed up fork tubes and they will work just fine. I've done it several times.
If the pits are small and they always are when your done you will be hard pressed to see them on the finished tube. Plus the seals don't get shredded and the oil stays inside where it belongs!
**note when reassembling the forks put some thread locking agent on the allen bolts that hold the damping rods in the fork so they don't come out and the forks come apart
