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A NOTE TO THOSE READING THIS THREAD....... AS A PROFESSIONAL I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE USE RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT TO PAINT ANYTHING LIKE BODYWORK. IN THIS TUTORIAL YOU WILL SEE A GREAT EFFORT TO PAINT THIS BIKE BUT IN THE END THE PAINT WILL NOT LAST AND WILL COST YOU WAY MORE IN THE LONG RUN THAN IT WOULD TO PAINT IT THE RIGHT WAY..........THANKS (HYBRID)
First off, we're still experiencing cloud cover so I cant get good sunlight pics.
For those that want to know how I did it here we go.
Things I purchased and prices:
American Traditions Clear Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
American Traditions Gray Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
Rustoleum Cobalt Metallic Blue - $4.98 x 12 cans
Dupli Color Gun Metal Gray - $4.98 x 3 cans
Dupli Color Top Clear Coat - $4.98 x 8 cans
Paint Remover- eats teh paint off - $4.97 x 2 cans "to much work"
150 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
240 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
320 the same
600 3M Imperial wetordry $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
800 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
1000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
2000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
Mothers Carbana Wax n restore $7.77 x 1 bottle
Zymol car wax $13.98 x 1 bottle
Bondo spot putty $3.98 x tube
I believe thats everything I bought.
First I sprayed the tank with paint remover
Then I hosed it down, when I realized it was harsh and burned skin
Then I sanded every fairing, starting with 150 grit to remove that blasted clear coat
then I moved on to 240 to smoothen the surface down
from there I proceeded to apply the Clear primer, accept to the tail cause it was black so it got gray
I let the primer set 15 minutes then applied a second coat with no sanding between
Two hours passed "per fairing" I then used the 320 to get the bondo and paint rough up, but smooth too
I began applying light coat of blue paint to each fairing
waiting 5 minutes and applied another light coat
waiting 15 minutes and applied a wet coat or thick coat
waiting 45 minutes for the paint to cure "fast drying" I sanded with 600 wet sand
Applied another coat of blue paint, waiting 20 minutes between, and sanded with 1000 wet sand
waited 30 minutes for a good dry surface, and sanded with 1000 wet sand again
wash the fairings with mild detergent "soapy water like dial or dawn"
proceeded to clear coat, one light coat, 10 minutes, heavy coat
sanded them down with 2000 wet sand
then a nice thick coat,
then as the fairings dried i noticed the bastards oxidized
so I bought the mothers restore wax and began to wax the ever loving shit out of them.
1 coat of mothers, wait 5 minutes, a second coat of mothers, wait 20 mins 1 coat of zymol
then I applied a wet coat of zymol "dipped the pad in water with the wax" and brought out a great shine
Thats how i did it, if you have any more questions feel free to ask
this whole process took about 8 days 5 hours a day, I have a patient wife and she allowed me to do it in the living room.
there are no downsides, just remember what I didn't do is coat the tank in polyurethane clear coat, it protects against gas, unlike the clear I used. I'm gonna have to reclear my tank.
did you spray the tank while it was on the bike? how hard was it to strip the pain off the tank if it was still on the bike? i'm thinking about doing a paint job myself, and i'm just curious how hard it was.
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Can you take some better lighted pictures in the daytime next to a normally painted bike so i can see the differences? If this isn't too hard I might do this and get some custom bodywork for my SV.
did you spray the tank while it was on the bike? how hard was it to strip the pain off the tank if it was still on the bike? i'm thinking about doing a paint job myself, and i'm just curious how hard it was.
on my bike the tank you see is actually a cover made of plastic, because it's designed as a race bike, the tank is only the back section and goes down through the cent of the frame.
I'll get some better pics from a factory painted bike this week.