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Old 06-16-2006, 10:27 PM   2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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Default HOWTO: Brakes

This thread is going to cover the basics of doing your bike's brakes, specifically the fronts (rear is even easier). This isn't a substitute for a good manual, just something I'm writing in my spare time. I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE IF SOMETHING BREAKS OR YOU KILL YOURSELF DUE TO THE BRAKES NOT FUNCTIONING.

On a scale of 1-5, with 5 being rebuilding the transmission, and 1 being lubing the chain, this is probably a 2. It's not as hard as it looks and its a fairly fast job.

1) The bike


2) The F4i has standard brakes, not the radial brakes all the new bikes come with. I'm sure radial brakes are done very similar to these, so the steps are probably pretty close, but I'm not 100% sure. You should first crack the pad bolts (aka sliders) loose while the caliper is still on the bike, makes things MUCH easier. After you get the pad bolts broken loose, remove the caliper bolts.


3) This is the the caliper removed from the bike. In this picture you see the part of the caliper that goes around the rotor. On the other side of the caliper, where I'm holding it, is the pad bolts and a clip. Look at the clip and notice how it is sitting so that you can be sure to get it in the same way it came out. After looking at the clip and pads, making sure you see how they sit, remove the pad bolts you cracked loose.


4) New Brembo pads. These are supposed to be soft pads. Meaning, they don't have the hard initial bite some people like. I personally like a more progressive feel versus the hard initial bite.


5) Old pad on top, new Brembo on the bottom, I think it's time for new brakes.
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Old 06-16-2006, 10:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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6) You have to compress the pistons back into the caliper. Put the old pad back in and put a rag around the caliper so as not to scratch it up. I used a pair of channel locks, but a C clamp is better. Squeeze the old pad, and one side of the caliper. Then repeat for the other side.


7) News pads and clip back in. Everything is being held in place by my fingers, but just to show you how mine sits. You can go ahead and put the pad bolts in and snug them down down.


8) This is the backside of the caliper, showing the clips, mounting tabs on the pads and me holding it all together. The bolts aren't in yet, but you can see where they will go.


9) Caliper ready to go back on the bike, but NOT yet. Everything's assembled and the pad bolts are snugged down for now.


10) Use either some good glass cleaner or electrical cleaner and wipe the rotor down before putting the caliper back on. Before you put the caliper bolts in, use a good thread lock on them.
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Old 06-16-2006, 10:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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11) Here's the caliper back on the bike. Make sure to tighten the caliper bolts down to the manufacturer's specs. After the caliper is tightened down, be sure to tighten the pad bolts down to specs as well.



This is just for one side of the front. You have to repeat the steps for the other side as well, as you have 2 brake assemblies on the front of a modern sportbike usually .

I hope atleast someone found this useful. It took me longer to write this then to actually do the job. Don't worry, it's an easy one!

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Old 06-16-2006, 10:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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good one!!

i would also like to point out that i've had good luck spreading the pads apart with a screwdriver between the old pads. It's worked well for me. You just need to make sure you get all the pistons in all the way. Then put in new pads and you're good to go!!!

(i know some people may say this is wrong. But it's always worked for me, so whatever!)

Good writeup!!
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Old 09-28-2006, 04:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinwilly
good one!!

i would also like to point out that i've had good luck spreading the pads apart with a screwdriver between the old pads. It's worked well for me. You just need to make sure you get all the pistons in all the way. Then put in new pads and you're good to go!!!

(i know some people may say this is wrong. But it's always worked for me, so whatever!)

Good writeup!!
I did the same thing with the screwdrive last week. Its old scoo.

I like the idea of loosening the bolts before removal to make it easier. Not sure I understand the windex on the rotor though? Only thing I can think of is if there is grease on it.
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Didn't there used to be pics?
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