Kevlar clutch Question. - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
R&D
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Kevlar clutch Question.

Does anyone know the purpose behind oiling the clutch disc prior to installation? Would it hurt to install dry? They run wet anyway. Also, what about "hazzing" a kevlar clutch to break in. Any help or comments would be appriciated.
thanks.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 01:20 PM
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I imagine they tell you to oil it so that it remains oiled in the moment in time after install before the engine oil makes its way through all of the clutch material...to prevent excessive early wear. Sort of like putting assembly lube on a camshaft before install. Yeah it will get engine oil...but not at first!

As far as your other question.... All I know is, I want a kevlar clutch........

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 04:30 PM
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If you assemble them dry it will be nearly impossible to get enough oil into them to stop them from damaging themselves the first time you ride. They used to recommend letting them soak for awhile in a pan of oil before assembly. That way the membrane was nice and saturated.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2004, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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cool, thanks for the info.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2004, 05:26 PM
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clutch lubing

I posted an answer to this once already. When I install a clutch I lightly oil each plate. This keeps them from sticking together on start up. Oil really doesnt live in clutches much. There are grooves to disperse oil when engaged. To properly break in the clutch, put it in gear and hold the brake while giving it throttle ( about 2k rpm) like a burn out. Lugg the motor a couple of times and readjust the lever for some free play. Take it easy on it for about 20 minutes while you ride it shifting repeatedly. After that, its asswhuping time if you want. If it slips you did something wrong.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2004, 06:22 PM
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Everytime I have installed a clutch (more than I can count) I have let the friction plates soak in clean engine oil over-night. Absolutely do not install the plates dry, you will burn up a clutch in less than 5k miles if you do. If nothing else, at least let the plates soak for an hour or two. Unless of course you have a dry/air-cooled clutch set up.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2004, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Any problems with using Full Synthetic oil? Valv. 5W-30
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2004, 07:50 AM
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Lightbulb valv syn

Not good to use syn oils with friction modifiers (eng consv II)...

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2004, 05:16 PM
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use what ever you want. There is no data that shows anything harming a bike using full synthetic. I run full synthetic in our race bikes making way too much power and have yet to have an oil induced failure
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2004, 08:17 PM
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I think what people are concerned about is not that synthetics are HARMING the bikes, but that the synthetic causes problems for certain wet-clutch bikes...ie clutch slip. The problem isn't that synthetics aren't good enough...more like they're a little TOO good...

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2004, 11:37 PM
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There is absolutely no evidence of that. Like I said I use the best synthetic car oil I can buy in my race team's bikes and have yet to have one slip from it
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2004, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, The bike is an 03 R1 and it is together with synth. Seems to be doing fine, plenty of power and no slippage. I run Mobil 1 in my F4i with no problems but I am on an organic clutch. Just didn't know about the Kevlar.
Thanks again.
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