Need help troubleshooting my bike ('06 GSXR 600). :( - Sportbikes.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Need help troubleshooting my bike ('06 GSXR 600). :(

Looking for some help as im out of ideas.

06 GSXR 600
I was planning to ride Thanksgiving morning so I set the battery tender on her the night before.
Started up and rode with NO issues to the gas station (about 10 miles). I fill up the gas tank.
After the fillup I turn the key and everything is dead. No gauge cluster, no fuel pump, nothing.
Push out of the way and start troubleshooting:

Occasionally gauges would light up, then everything died when I hit the starter.

Occasionally when the gauge cluster does NOT light up I turn the key off and the speedo needle would shoot up then down.

Occasionally the gauge cluster would light up, then flicker, then I would hear fuel pump prime. Hit starter and it all dies.

I put some jumper cables on her and she starts up. Runs for about 5 minutes then died.

All the under seat fuses are good.

Trailered her home thinking the battery took a crap on me.

Installed a brand new battery and I have all the same symptoms. Although now I have noticed that with no cluster etc the headlight does come on (may have been happening at gas station but couldnt tell).

Any ideas?
And yes, I missed Thanksgiving this year... lol

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 11:40 AM
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first up, cleaning. clean your terminals, clean your, contacts, clean you connectors, clean your fuses, clean clean clean clean. clean until you know that you have low resistance reliable connections from your battery to your wiring, and charging system.

then get the bike started and test your charging system.
does it have enough voltage. (14 volts or so)
if yes, figure out if you fixed your problem.(if your problem comes back go over your wiring with a fine comb, look for something causing problems.)
if no, start on the charging system.(regulator, rectifier, coils)

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 12:19 PM
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Maybe the new batter was a bad battery? It happened to me. I got a brand new battery and had to get it replaced shortly thereafter because it crapped on me.


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 12:24 PM
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The original problem definitely sounds like a bad battery.

What kind of battery did you replace it with, and did you properly charge it before installing?

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 12:49 PM
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If it was just a dead battery the bike should have stayed running after being started.
that's why i suspect corroded parts, high resistance connections, intermittent connections...ect, or a bad/weak charging system.
besides cleaning is cheap, and should be done anyway. batteries are expensive.
but yes definitely charge and load test the new battery to make sure its good.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 02:06 PM
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A buddy of mine has the same year make and model. Same thing happened to him. He'd be out riding, 10 or so miles, bike would die. Would be fine to jump, get a few minutes, then die.

Turned out to be a bad stator. Took it to the shop, been in the shop for the last three months due to national backorder on that part.

Hope yours turns out to be something else, but just wanted to let you know my experience. Good luck sir.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffo8 View Post
If it was just a dead battery the bike should have stayed running after being started.
Not if the battery was totally dead. A bike without an alternator on it won't idle with a dead battery.... they don't make enough juice below 3k rpm to stay running.

I mean- the battery was definitely dead. Whether or not that's his ONLY problem is another story.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 03:51 PM
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^+1

if it is the stator/coils, like for tpcarc's buddy, and the backlog means you can't get the part you can try rewinding the stator. most towns have a shop that will do it, and there are plenty of internet places that will. but it isn't cheep (if somebody in your town offers to do it for cheep walk away, it is worth paying a professional for this job. i mean i would rewind my own stator, maybe, if i was ok with having to try several times to get it right but i wouldn't take money to rewire a stator).

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinwilly View Post
Not if the battery was totally dead. A bike without an alternator on it won't idle with a dead battery.... they don't make enough juice below 3k rpm to stay running.

I mean- the battery was definitely dead. Whether or not that's his ONLY problem is another story.
+1, 000

also, have had experience with a "new" battery being bad too. if you don't have a voltmeter - GET ONE!!!! you can find out so much about the health of an electrical system with a voltmeter, it's worth it's weight in gold!!! got my first one when i used to race R/C cars (back in the 80's). i still have it but it's joined by 3 others. i do NOT want to be without one.

and like others have said... CLEAN THE F OUT OF THOSE CONNECTIONS. it does not take much corrosion to stop something from working. working on Bomber Avionics proved that out more times than i can shake a stick at.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 12:47 AM
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I think you need for a help with a good bike mechanic. It definitely solves your problem.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaishali View Post
I think you need for a help with a good bike mechanic. It definitely solves your problem.
It's the Help Me Fix It sub forum for a reason. To avoid paying someone to solve a problem you can solve with a little insight.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 11:32 AM
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^ Some people regardless how much online insight (help) you give them can never solve their own problems !

Not saying this is the case here, but it is the case far too often.

"I put some jumper cables on her and she starts up. Runs for about 5 minutes then died."

I am going to assume you had unhooked the jumper cables after it started running and then approx 5 minutes later it died.
That being the case, your battery likely got a bit of a surface charge from the other battery it was jumped from, then went dead again while idling (as noted most motorcycles do not charge well or at all while idling, certainly not enough to charge a dead battery back up.)
At any rate the cause of the dead battery (assuming once again it was dead which seems likely) is what you need to diagnose. Voltmeter is your friend, along with the service manual for specs.
So resting voltage of the battery is what? If ths isn't more than 12.6v then you definatley should fully charge the battery before continuing.
If you get the bike started and running at say 3000 rpm, now what does that reading go to? If this isn't atleast 13.8v then again you have some other issues which can be a few things.....bad stator, bad battery, bad connections (broken, frayed, corroded etc...)bad regulator/rectifier...all of which are easily diagnosed properly with the service manual and a voltmeter.
Did you check the state of charge of the new battery before installing it? Because a fully charged battery (12.8v or more)even with no charging system would have started the bike and ran it for possibly as long as 100 miles, depending on electrical draw of the running bike. However if electrical connections are the blame for the original battery going bad/being dead~~they also could contribute to a new fully charged battery not getting all its power to the bike as needed...

TRO--You leave far too many unanswered questions to give any more help than what has been provided already. Not to mention you haven't chimed in since your original post...

Who needs banning today?
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 01:36 PM
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Ignition switch
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 05:54 AM
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great share!

Last edited by fletcher9230; 01-09-2013 at 05:59 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 02:26 PM
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OP is post-n-run?
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