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Help Me Fix ItA great place to post any problems you maybe having while working on your motorcycle. Most of us are do-it-yourselfers so this is a great way to share any information pertaining to fixing something or adding something on.
So I've worked on my carbs quite a bit this spring, and I finally got everything running fine. The bike's been running great for the last month or so with NO issues whatsoever.
So I took it for a quick spin yesterday, for the first time in about a week due to work and the weather. It was running a bit sluggish, but once it warmed up it was fine.
So anyways, I got it home and parked it, and then about 2 hours or so later I went out into the garage and noticed a puddle of gas underneath the bike. It wasn't actually dripping anything at the time, so I couldn't tell exactly what was leaking the gas.
After this I started the bike...it was a bit hard to start, and it seemed pretty obvious to me that it was flooded. So I got it started and it ran for a bit and I turned it off. Checked again later and no gas leak at all.
Then I started it again this morning after sleeping all night and it started right up. I went to a church service in memory of my girl's mother, and when we got back it had a big gas leak on the floor again. So I started it and it started right up. Once again, no sign of where the gas was leaking from.
Then the girl and I ran to the cemetery to visit her mother's grave site, and came back about 25 minutes later. The puddle was bigger, and I could actually see where it was leaking from this time. It was coming out of the left carb, right through the pod filter on the bike. (it's a twin, so there are only two carbs)
So I took the tank off the bike. The vac petcock is working fine. It allows no gas to go through when it's not attached, so I don't THINK that the petcock is bad. I took the carb bank off, and took it apart. It doesn't look dirty inside it at all. Nothing at all to speak of. The float needles, or whatever they are called, the pieces that the float raises and lowers to allow gas in were moving freely and didn't seem to get stuck in any one spot. There appeared to be no debris causing the float to not be able to move where it's supposed to move to.
I've still got the carb off of the bike because I need to move a c-clip on the needles, so I'm going to do that, and I guess I'll get a can of carb cleaner and spray that all over the needles and jets and such inside that float bowl area...but while it's off, can anyone think of anything else that I should check/adjust to take care of this leaking gas issue?? I've also got a new set of slide/diaphragms on the way because the ones in there got pinched the last time I was putting the carbs back together...so I don't know if that has caused the needles to not seat correctly or something.
But, any other ideas would be great. Let me know what you think.
Thanks.
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In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
Last edited by Gimpdiggity : 05-04-2008 at 04:04 PM.
The large hoses that are on the top half of the carbs are the vent hoses. If they are blocked your carbs will over flow. They need to be vented to athosheric pressure (open)Put your lips on the large hose or hoses and blow. Hopefully that will clear them out.
The large hoses that are on the top half of the carbs are the vent hoses. If they are blocked your carbs will over flow. They need to be vented to athosheric pressure (open)Put your lips on the large hose or hoses and blow. Hopefully that will clear them out.
Which hoses do you speak of? All of the hoses on the carb are connected to other things on the carb...I don't think any of them are just open.
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In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
I went out and disconnected each hose and blew through it. I then reconnected each hose and disconnected the other end of each hose and blew through it. No blockages at all.
I also actually hooked the carb up without the float bowls on. Gas flows through them like it should, and when I raise the floats on each side the gas flow completely stops. So obviously the floats are seating correctly and shutting off the flow of fuel.
I guess I'm going to go ahead and put those new diaphragms in and spray some carb cleaner on the float bowls and all the stuff inside of them and see if that takes care of the problem. Who knows, maybe there's a tiny bit of gunk on those float needles or whatever that I can't see that's causing them not to seat completely correctly when on the bike.
Is it POSSIBLE at all that the pinched diaphragm could be causing these problems?? Is it possible that it's not letting the needle go completely down and the fuel is actually leaking up through the needle there??
When reading that GSTwins post I thought that would nail this problem...but I don't seem to have any blockage...at least not one that I was able to find. All the hoses flowed air just fine.
__________________
In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
Pinched diafram will not control the flow of fuel into the carbs, It only raises the throtle body along with the needle. The needle is not a shutoff valve it is a sloopy fit in the main jet emulsion tube
Pinched diafram will not control the flow of fuel into the carbs, It only raises the throtle body along with the needle. The needle is not a shutoff valve it is a sloopy fit in the main jet emulsion tube
That's what I figured...but it's the only thing that I KNOW of that's out of spec.
__________________
In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
Is there any possibility that there was in fact something stuck in the float bowl that was causing the float not to seat, but when I took the carb apart (had to turn it upside down to get to the screws) whatever it was just flowed back out the way it came in??
Basically, could the simple procedure of removing the carb and flipping it upside down have been enough to dislodge something that might have been causing that float to stick??
__________________
In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
I've had debris lodge itself against the side of the float needle. This was on my EX500. Had to pull the carbs apart twice to catch it.
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"when a nation is on the downward path, when it feels its belief in its own future, its hope of freedom slipping from it, when it begins to see submission as a first necessity and the virtues of submission as measures of self-preservation, then it must overhaul its god." -- Nietzsche
You may want to change the oil since it may be diluted with fuel
Yah, that's on my agenda for this week.
I'll be getting the carbs cleaned up and put back together, then changing the oil. It was about time for that, anyways.
__________________
In Life, Try To Be The Kind Of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250--SV-650 rear shock, Sonic Springs .80kg/mm front springs, ZX-2R graphics, flush mount front signals, tail pod rear signals, Kerker 2-1 race pipe, Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, UNI pod filters, ZG Double Bubble, Custom Creations soft vinyl seat cover, Kawi Green rim stripes, carbon brake fluid cap, carbon control levers, No Rear Fender, Yamaha R1 Style Mirrors, V-LEDs.com H4 HID Kit, Nelson Rigg Silver Streak Mini Saddle Bags, Rapid Transit Recon Tank Bag, Various Manufacturers Decals
Leaking Gas Out of Carb/Filter
Linear Mode
