fork question

[94rf900r]

the front suspension on my bike is loose as shit i tightened the adjustment all the way down and it didnt make a differnce so i loosened it all the way still no difference. i'm thinking the springs are fuct. my dad has the exact same bike and his is alot stiffer than mine. i guess my question is do you guys think its the springs? i'm proly gonna take it apart tomorrow and measure them.

[Veefer97]

Change the fork oil, springs adjustment does not stiffen the suspension. Here is a write up on how to dissasemble the front end. Just use the parts that you need.
Procedure:

1 Lightly loosen all of the hardware that will need to be removed
2 Place bike on rear stand and then lift front wheel off ground
3 Top triple, clamp must be fully loose before loosening the top fork nut. Loosen top fork nut
4 Remove front brakes, wheel and fender
5 Loosen clip on’s
6 Loosen lower triple clamp
7 Remove fork
8 Repeat steps 6-7 for other fork
9 Using screwdriver unscrew the rebound dampener screw to it’s full up position (counterclockwise). Do this gently or you will ruin the screw.
10 Once the screw gently tops out count turns or click while screwing in the dampener screw until it gently bottoms out. Do not omit this step, write down the number of turns or clicks. Unscrew and top out the rebound dampener screw, this is important
11 Remove top fork nut

Upside down forks
1 Slide the aluminum top leg until it bottoms out
2 Place fork in spring compressor tool so that the hole on the bottom of the fork leg engages into the tool standoff
3 Adjust tool so that the top threaded studs of tool are lined up with the holes in the spring spacer which located on top of the spring
4 Thread the studs into the spring spacer holes
5 Using tool compress the spring until the dampener rod lock nut is exposed (usually a 14mm wrench can be used on the nut)
6 While holding the top fork nut with one wrench loosen the dampener rod lock nut with another wrench
7 Unscrew the fork nut and remove fork nut with attached dampening rod
8 Carefully loosen the spring compressor tool and release the spring tension
9 Remove spring, spacer and washers

Right side up forks
1 Slide the fork down until it bottoms out
2 While holding the top fork nut with one wrench loosen the dampener rod lock nut with another wrench
3 Unscrew the fork nut and remove fork nut with attached dampening rod
4 Remove spring and spring washers

Draining the oil
Drain the oil by placing the fork upside down over a container. When all of the oil has drained out slide the dampener rod up and down to drain the oil in the cartridge. Do the same with the fork (extend and collapse) until all of the oil is out

Removing and replacing the seal

1 With screwdriver carefully remove dust seal by gently prying around the seal
2 Remove retaining clip that is under the dust seal
3 Remove allen bolt that is located inside the bottom of fork
4 While holding one end of fork slide the other end in the opposite direction until the seal, spacer and top for bearing come out. This step requires numerous extensions as the and seal is a tight fit
5 The seal, spacer and bearing will be on the chromed leg of the fork
6 Remove seal and clean fork leg
7 Tighten the allen bolt removed in step3 to correct torque value
8 Reinstall fork leg into aluminum slider
9 There are special tools for driving the bearing into the slider but a gently used screwdriver and hammer has been effective. I stress the word gently.
10 Once the bearing is seated place the spacer over the bearing
11 Place new seal on fork leg
12 Place old seal over the new seal and using a hammer drive the new seal into the slider. Note: the new seal must be seated full in order for the retaining clip to seat fully
13 Remove old seal and place the dust seal in position


Setting the oil level height

1 Pour oil in until it is approx. 100mm from the top of fork
2 Slide the dampener rod up and down until the fork oil comes through the dampener rod with no bubbles showing
3 Add oil to the level desired. To find oil level go to Race/tech.com. 110 mm is used a lot but check to make sure
Note: To set the correct level take wire coat hanger and bend at your desired level. While putting oil in, stop when oil level reaches the end of your tool. Use a flashlight

Fork assembly

1 Put the spring back into fork
2 Put the washer on top of spring followed by the spacer if any
3 Put washer on top of spacer
4 Make tool with coat hanger (make loop on one end and bend at a 900 angle to snag the dampener rod nut so that the rod can be extended past the spring top)
Pull rod past the top of spring. Safety wire can also be used. Lightly wrap safety wire below the dampener nut and place the spring and washers over wire
5 Place slotted washer under dampener rod
Note: Upside down forks need the compressor tool in order to compress the spring. Be careful doing this
7 Install to fork nut and dampener rod
8 Thread the fork nut onto the dampener cartridge rod
9 Screw in the rebound dampener screw and count the turns.
Note: If turns less than desired the fork nut needs to be turned out counter clockwise. If the turns are more than desired turn clockwise
10 when the correct amount of turns are achieved tighten the dampener cartridge rod nut against the fork nut
Assemble forks on bike in reverse order of disassembly.
Check your maintenance manual for proper torque values
Set your suspension rates accordingly as they have all changed

[jim schmidt]

Springs are the least likely problem although weight matched springs are one of the most productive mods. I'll bet you have another problem, but it will probably only be revealed by dissassembly.

[94rf900r]

if not the springs what should i be looking for? really think changing the oil will make it stiffer? i could see if it was low or something but its not leaking. another thing i forgot to say the guy who had it before me used to wheelie it so thats prolly why its beat it only has like 25k on the odometer

[Veefer97]

At a hard 25K miles the oil viscosity is close to zero so your dampenning can not be adjusted to the specifications needed. Also the springs could be worn out from ham fisted wheelies. Change the oil first get it adjusted (do a search on how to adjust suspension) and then if you need to, change the springs.

[94rf900r]

alright thanks

[jim schmidt]

Actually, fork oil doesn't go bad. It's in a sealed environment not subject to any crushing forces that break down its long link molecules.

I'm betting your forks are leaking or have mostly or fully leaked out. But its really hard to diagnose based on your description.

• Do your forks compress too easily?
• Do they bounce up and down too easily?
• Does your front end sit too low when you get on the bike?
• Does it bottom?
• Does it bottom when you brake?
• Does it bounce hard over bumps?

What exactly is the specific handling problem you are trying to fix?

[94rf900r]

Originally Posted by jim schmidt

Actually, fork oil doesn't go bad. It's in a sealed environment not subject to any crushing forces that break down its long link molecules.

I'm betting your forks are leaking or have mostly or fully leaked out. But its really hard to diagnose based on your description.

• Do your forks compress too easily?
• Do they bounce up and down too easily?
• Does your front end sit too low when you get on the bike?
• Does it bottom?
• Does it bottom when you brake?
• Does it bounce hard over bumps?

What exactly is the specific handling problem you are trying to fix?

yes they compress too easily

no its not bouncy

yes it sits low because they compress too much

it doesnt bottom out. and not when i brake either

it doesnt bounce when i go over a bump. i'm guessing your meaning like a car does when the shocks are shit? no its not like that thats why i was thinking its the springs it just seems like there isnt enough support or somthing.

your right i didnt give enough info sorry. and i dont think its the oil either but i've never dealt with this before so i dont really know. the seals arent leaking at least for as long as i've had it which is about 3 years.

[Veefer97]

Originally Posted by jim schmidt

Actually, fork oil doesn't go bad. It's in a sealed environment not subject to any crushing forces that break down its long link molecules.

I'm betting your forks are leaking or have mostly or fully leaked out. But its really hard to diagnose based on your description.

• Do your forks compress too easily?
• Do they bounce up and down too easily?
• Does your front end sit too low when you get on the bike?
• Does it bottom?
• Does it bottom when you brake?
• Does it bounce hard over bumps?

What exactly is the specific handling problem you are trying to fix?

The oil is forced through small orifices within the fork suspension components. This over time changes the viscosity of the oil. Since viscosity is the what gives you the dampening characteristics of your suspension you need the oil changed. I think that the oil change interval on my 900RR is at 10K miles. I have changed the oil in many forks and there is always a difference with the new oil.