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Help Me Fix It A great place to post any problems you maybe having while working on your motorcycle. Most of us are do-it-yourselfers so this is a great way to share any information pertaining to fixing something or adding something on.

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Old 03-12-2006, 10:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
Dingo
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Default Idle Issues

I got it all back together and it's actually running great.
Just have some Idle issues. This might be due to the
fact I replaced the pusher and puller throttle cables.

This is what happens.
I'll warm up the bike and make sure it's ready to be ridden.(tire checks, etc)
It will ride fine for about 2 miles in 30-50 mph traffic. After about 15 min
it will idle up @ 3000rpm and i'll have to reach down and reduce the Idle
adjust on the carb.
Since this keeps happening i'm thinking my pusher and puller cabels might
be out of adjustment.
Anyone have any advice? I don't want to hurt my engine when I pull
up to a red light to see my RPMs @ 3-4k and have to make a fast adjustment.

History of the bike...bought new. Ridden for 2000 miles...then let sit 2 yrs
while I was shipped off overseas.
Carbs are cleaned and re-built(origianl parts...just needed a good cleaning)
tank had rust(cleaned that out with Ospho Acid)
replaced petcock and tank floats
replaced pusher and puller throttel cables.

Thanks in advance for any help ...have a beer on me
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the throttle snaps back closed when you release it, it's probably not the cables. Is there any difference in idle speed with the forks turned from all the way left to all the way right? If not, another indication that the cables are OK. Cables usually don't change over time or bike temperature/warm up.

I would look more closely at the carbs. Floats sticking or out of adjustment. Vacuum leak somewhere (hose or clamp).
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's behaving like it's lean, or that there's an air leak.

check for air leaks by spraying water or wd-40 on the intake boot area. If the idle changes, there you go. Be thorough in your coverage, tho.

did you remove the idle screws when you cleaned the carbs? did you put them back in the exact same place, and is the oring behind them ok?
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes i did one carb at a time and put everything back the original settings.
Im usually very systematic that way. O-rings are fine
If it was a air / vaccum leak wouldn't it be running rough?
It runs smooth beside the idle revs up to 3k and needs adjustment.
After it's hot it runs fine all day.
Would a leak show it's self when the engine is hotter than at warm up?

Last edited by Dingo : 03-13-2006 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would also check the choke operation. If it sticks partially closed, the idle could creep up as the engine warms up.
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I know this might be a stupid question but I figure I'd be a bigger idiot for not asking.
Is there a setting that you should adjust pusher and puller cables when new?
I notice the second I mess with the puller cable my Idle revs up....how do I know when the pusher is set right. It seems to have no effect on anything.
I have a book here but doesn't go into detail beside linkage and connections.

Also...when adjusting the carb "the throttle body right"?.
Can that adjustment come lose causeing issues? say if you unscrewed it all the way out or is that not possible?.
When I had the carbs apart I never thought to check it.

After a ride today the issues seems to be subsiding...now when I down shift
when stoping(like you should do) my RPM stabalizes
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Old 03-13-2006, 11:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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you can adjust the cables. basically you make sure there's a bit of slack in them. there's an adjustment on the handlebar, and another one at the carbs. you only need to use one. make the return cable pretty loose, the spring is plenty strong it return the throttle back. Can you force the throttle closed and have the idle come down?

either way, if it's temp dependent:
if it idles higher when warm: it's lean (or air leak)
if it idles higher when cold: it's rich (or stuck choke)
the cables are not temperature dependent.

i have no idea what "throttle body" adjustment you mean.. the carb sync?
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Old 03-17-2006, 05:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll have it apart tomorrow to go over all that you guys have mentioned.

Thanks for all your advice.

Enos,
Yeah...I guess it's the carb sync. Knobby bit (tech term ) near the petcock on/off switch.
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Old 03-17-2006, 05:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo
I'll have it apart tomorrow to go over all that you guys have mentioned.

Thanks for all your advice.

Enos,
Yeah...I guess it's the carb sync. Knobby bit (tech term ) near the petcock on/off switch.
If you're talking about a knurled knob that you can turn with your fingers, that's likely the idle speed adjustment. The carb sync adjustments will be somewhat buried near the throttle linkages.
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah that;s it feel'n like a LOL
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Old 03-17-2006, 08:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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no worries.. gotta learn somewhere. Yeah, carb sync are little screws between the carbs.

keep us updated
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