Just a little work

[jeffo8]

shoe lace works.

Try a crescent wrench or box end wrench to hold the fly wheel while loosening the bolt.

hit the bolt with an impact wrench while gripping the fly wheel.
(i prefer air but a battery one will do in a pinch.)

borrow one if you do not have one.

[Hyena]

Originally Posted by jeffo8

shoe lace works.

Try a crescent wrench or box end wrench to hold the fly wheel while loosening the bolt.

hit the bolt with an impact wrench while gripping the fly wheel.
(i prefer air but a battery one will do in a pinch.)

borrow one if you do not have one.

Tried holding it with a wrench and couldn't get it. The shoe lace won't damage anything? I'm afraid of something getting caught in the internals.

[jeffo8]

not if you are on the compression stroke.

how to tell if a piston is on the compression stroke
#1
if you have the exhaust off, check for when the exhaust valve is closed and the piston is rising. this is the compression stroke.
#2
take the valve cover off. when both valves are closed and the piston is rising, it is the compression stroke.
#3
take all the spark plugs out and spin the engine with you thumb over the spark plug hole. When the engine tries to blow you thumb off the hole, that's the compression stroke.

[jeffo8]

if you have air thought i still suggest using an air wrench.

if you do not have air go to a shop/store and ask to borrow an electric impact wrench.

then hold the fly wheel with one hand, or better yet recruit some poor innocent passer by to hold the fly wheel, while you use the impact driver to loosen the bolt.

[Hyena]

Originally Posted by jeffo8

if you have air thought i still suggest using an air wrench.

if you do not have air go to a shop/store and ask to borrow an electric impact wrench.

then hold the fly wheel with one hand, or better yet recruit some poor innocent passer by to hold the fly wheel, while you use the impact driver to loosen the bolt.

I actually did have a friend try to hold the flywheel. No impact wrench though. I managed to clean most of the gunk without taking the flywheel off.

This little project will be further delayed because the Honda Motorsports dealer sold me the wrong feeler gauges. I'm also waiting on float bowl cover bolts, valve cover gasket, flywheel cover gasket, hose to fuel pump (tore mine when removing tank), and a few fairing bolts.

Also, probably a stupid question, but when checking valve clearance, do you take the measurements from the front of the bike (looking at the windscreen) or the back (looking at the controls)? I also can't seem to figure out which cylinder is which... 1-4 starting from the left if you're looking at the controls?

[jeffo8]

ummm, you don't need a Honda feeler gage.
just go to napa/ace/truevalue/snapon and get any feeler gage that covers the range you want, use that to check if you valves are in spec.

generic bolts also do not need to be from the dealer just get them from a fastener store.

you can also get your fuel line from napa(i suggest that you put in a inline fuel filter as well). oh, bye the way, your bike doesn't have a fuel pump.

[Hyena]

I know I don't need one but I have to return the one I have anyway, so might as well.

I tried picking up bolts from the store and they didn't have the sizes I needed. They had the thread and length for the fairing bolts but the head was too small to hold the fairing in place.

No fuel pump? Hmm... well in any case, I tore the hose leading from carbs to tank. It's a preformed hose. I believe the bike does have an inline fuel filter does it not?

[jeffo8]

ok your money.

ok your money, but... um... washers, they exist, or you can ask the store to order in the bolts you need. (i have had good luck with fasteners inc and mcmasters but less good luck with fastenal)

no in line fuel filter i know of,not unless you count the screen over the pet cock.

unless the dealer's preformed line is ethanol resistant, you would probably be better off getting non preformed ethanol resistant line and figuring out a way to route it.

oh and this cite will be useful 1994 Honda CBR600F2 Parts, 1994 Honda CBR600F2 OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

[Hyena]

I'll look into a fuel filter. Did a bit of searching and it seems the Goldwing filter works well.

I went to ACE Hardware. I figured if they didn't have it, no one would. Do the stores you mentioned sell nut and bolts only? I didn't realize there were places that specialized like that.

[jeffo8]

for cylinder numbers.
sit on bike facing forward.
look at engine, cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 left to right.

the stores i mentioned are industrial supply outlets.
McMaster-Carr
mcmasters i have never seen a store of, but they are good at delivery. generally if i know i will have to order stuff i try them first.

Fasteners Inc, 1 Stop Industrial Source, Cable Wire Rope, Riggings
fasteners inc. has some store fronts and will order stuff for you. i have enjoyed my experience with them in the past.

fastenal- has the most store fronts, but the employees all seam to be suffocating to a slow death, and do not give good service.

for fuel filters i suggest, just a generic, universal, cheap, in-line, fuel-filter.
but if you want to do a through job, look up all the filters you can find and compare what size particles they block, and what there flow rate is.
then post the results back here, cause i have never bothered.

[serpentracer]

if you know the bolt size any fastener place can get it. I do this with my RC cars. fastenal is where I go. you can also bring it there and maybe the guys are good enough to size it up and get you the right one. they might have to order it is the problem. shit so will the damn dealer more than likely too. but fastenal will save you a good chunk of cash. put it this way I can buy a box of 100 of the screws for my rc cars for the price of 4-5 of the same thing at the hobby shops.
anyway, I think if you put the bike in gear and hold the brake (if you have the wheel up on a lift) it will hold the engine from turning.
I think. never tried it.

[serpentracer]

Originally Posted by Hyena

Also, probably a stupid question, but when checking valve clearance, do you take the measurements from the front of the bike (looking at the windscreen) or the back (looking at the controls)? I also can't seem to figure out which cylinder is which... 1-4 starting from the left if you're looking at the controls?

that doesn't matter. what does matter is you take the measurement with the lobes not pushing down on the valve.
my bike's manual says to put the intake and exhaust lobes at about the 11 o clock and 2 o clock position for each cylinder and measure . that's where the piston is at top dead center. you have to turn the motor over by hand to achieve this for each cylinder.
I bought my gauges at sears. find the kind that have the kickup (bend) they're way easier to get in there.

[Hyena]

Originally Posted by serpentracer

that doesn't matter. what does matter is you take the measurement with the lobes not pushing down on the valve.
my bike's manual says to put the intake and exhaust lobes at about the 11 o clock and 2 o clock position for each cylinder and measure . that's where the piston is at top dead center. you have to turn the motor over by hand to achieve this for each cylinder.
I bought my gauges at sears. find the kind that have the kickup (bend) they're way easier to get in there.

Checked clearances today and they were all good! I didn't have the feelers with the bend, but I managed just fine. Now I'm just waiting to get my gaskets in so I can put her back together.

Also, I will be cleaning the gas tank this weekend. I'll let you know how that goes. Ordered a fuel filter as well.

[Hyena]

I need to put the left crankcase cover back on and I'm looking at the manual. It does call for a new gasket but says nothing about sealant. Should you always apply sealant when dealing with things of this nature (things that require new gaskets)?

[jeffo8]

The left crankcase cover gasket doesn't need sealant.
i tend to use high-tack or grease to hold things until i bolt every thing together

Dan's Motorcycle

Gasket preparation and reuse