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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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How to bleed the cooling system

Today I changed the oil and decided to top off the coolant reservoir. After everything was all put back together I took the bike for a ride and noticed a slight increase in operating temperature which I know can be caused by air in the cooling system. Then I realized that I didnt put the cap back on the reservoir and figured I got air in the system and I should probably bleed it out.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 08:42 PM
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i would like to know too.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 09:21 PM
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If you have to bleed a system, there needs to be bleeder valves somewhere.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 09:28 PM
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The cap not on the reservoir will not induce air into the system. The cap is there to keep the coolant in and dirt and other stuff that doesn't belong in there out. You "bleed" the coolant system by removing the radiator cap (At full operating temp for best results....not) when cold, starting it up, and letting it circulate for a few minutes. As the coolant circulates, when it flows to the rad cap, any air will come out the top. Put the cap on when you think she's ready, and you are ready to rock.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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thanks that helps
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
The cap not on the reservoir will not induce air into the system. The cap is there to keep the coolant in and dirt and other stuff that doesn't belong in there out. You "bleed" the coolant system by removing the radiator cap (At full operating temp for best results....not) when cold, starting it up, and letting it circulate for a few minutes. As the coolant circulates, when it flows to the rad cap, any air will come out the top. Put the cap on when you think she's ready, and you are ready to rock.
Correct- same procedure as a car.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleCaliente View Post
Correct- same procedure as a car.
depends on the car......



I have bikes and cars that require it to be bled through a bleeder valve (located near the thermostat)
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 11:04 PM
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I changed my coolant the other week and found out my bike has a coolant bleeder screw. Open the screw until coolant starts to flow out and all the air is out of the system. It seemed to work well although I still had to top off the expansion tank a few times after each heat/cooling cycle of running the engine.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarosean View Post
depends on the car......

I have bikes and cars that require it to be bled through a bleeder valve (located near the thermostat)
I thought you were just supposed to slice a hole in the coolant line and then duct tape it when you finish???

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
The cap not on the reservoir will not induce air into the system. The cap is there to keep the coolant in and dirt and other stuff that doesn't belong in there out. You "bleed" the coolant system by removing the radiator cap (At full operating temp for best results....not) when cold, starting it up, and letting it circulate for a few minutes. As the coolant circulates, when it flows to the rad cap, any air will come out the top. Put the cap on when you think she's ready, and you are ready to rock.
DO not open the cap when at full temperature or you will get a facefull of coolant.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 09:47 AM
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I think he wasn't saying that, but yeah you don't want to pull the rad cap when the system is hot.

The procedure is to heat the the system up and then let it cool down if you don't have a fancy bleeder valve. Open the cap and fill the radiator more after the system has cooled if needed... if you are bleeding out air, the level of coolant will drop. Repeat until the coolant level is constant. It can take a few times if you have lots of air in the system. Typically once is enough if even necessary for me, I refill slowly with a steady controlled pour.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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will I be able to read the actual coolant level by looking at the reserve tank or is there another place I should check the coolant level.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 12:17 PM
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reserve tank should have notches.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleCaliente View Post
I thought you were just supposed to slice a hole in the coolant line and then duct tape it when you finish???

That's usually frowned upon because the duct tape only matches the body panels paint color if it's a silver bike. Who wants unsightly silver duct tape on their bike if it isn't silver?

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2008, 03:45 AM
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Just talked to the service manager at a local shop. He told me that on most of the new bikes the temp sensor is at the top. And some of the bikes are haveing to go through quite a few cycles for the air to bleed out. Keep an eye on the overflow tank.
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